[PTSchram]

OK, let's see were I can get a response faster, here or Discoweb...

I need the numbers stampes into the ring around the pinionn seal. It has to be a common part, the hard part is finding which one.

I finally found that damned oil logic unit-who would have expected it to be behinnd the alarm?

Peace,
Paul

 

[redrangie]

OK, let's see were I can get a response faster, here or Discoweb...

I need the numbers stampes into the ring around the pinionn seal. It has to be a common part, the hard part is finding which one.

I finally found that damned oil logic unit-who would have expected it to be behinnd the alarm?

Peace,
Paul

Did you know that you can just disconnect part of the oil unit?????

Saved me 350.00 and got rid of that annoying light...

j

 

[PTSchram]

If it wasn't for the truck belonging to a paying client, I might try that path. That and I do not like not having any idea as to the presence/absence of oil pressure.

Also, disconnecting the sensors does not extinguish the light.

Peace,
Paul

 

[JSBriggs]

I had a similar problem with the ABS light in my RR. I poped a cv and the abs was never the same, no antilock and the light stayed on. Removing the bulb in the dash has worked for the past couple of years, still no antilock, but it is halfway(half ass) fixed. :flipoff2:

-Jeff

/Edit/
Forgot to answer you origional question. I have a 3rd out on the bench at home, so If you don't get the # today, I'll get to you for you this evening.

 

[lwg]

I had a similar problem with the ABS light in my RR. I poped a cv and the abs was never the same, no antilock and the light stayed on. Removing the bulb in the dash has worked for the past couple of years, still no antilock, but it is halfway(half ass) fixed. :flipoff2:

-Jeff

I had a very similiar problem with my ABS after drowning my truck. Finally removed the bulb as well and everything works fine now! Of course there's no ABS.


BTW Paul, I had also heard that you can simply disconnect something. Not sure if the light stays on or not. But then again this doesn't necessarily help you. You might try the Rovers North BBS, not as many MallRats there and every now and then the Rovers North guys chime in.

 

[PTSchram]

Jef-if you get a chance, it would be helpful. I'm trying to find a Chicago Rawhide or Scottseal equivalent.

BTW Paul, I had also heard that you can simply disconnect something. Not sure if the light stays on or not.

Light remains on with everything but the logic unit disconnected, also, the client has requested low pressure functionality. From looking at the circuit diagram, I'm certain that I can merely make a connector to jumper the pressure switch to the light to regain low pressure functionality. The circuit is powered through the light with the circuit completed to ground through the logic unit, hence it should require little more than a piece of wire with two male spade lugs (or round pins) on each end jumpering the logic unit.

As for RN, I don't buy many parts there and don't wish to appear to be taking undue advantage of them.

Thanx,
Paul

 

[JSBriggs]

This is from the 87RR w 4 spline pinion flange.

BAF V11 VD3 SLSF DRW X67 44,45 69,85 14,5 CFW1

-Jeff

 

[PTSchram]

Thanx Jeff. If I can't cross that, I'm not doing my job.

Peace,
Paul

 

[Ran_over]

The numbers that Jeff posted are for the early style flange.(rover number frc8220)

If this car has had a pinion flange update at some point, it calls for a different seal.

The later seal (Rover#ftc5258) has the following stamped on the seal...

FTC5258 BAUM4SL FSX67 44,45- 69.85- 9/13,5 CFW 5

Hope this helps,

:usa:

Craig