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Discussion Starter #1
finished putting this back together tonight, after doing the great dealer can't find shit so find the seals else where search.. I replaced both seals, cleaned up the shafts, tapped the box, and figured out why people say be careful with your balls when playing with the guts..

It's a FJ60 box, and you tap it for hydro assist just like an IFS box.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Got it all together last night, I took it out for spin. Works pretty good, I actually like the feel better now!

So, for those who use the search function, I'm putting this here. The rest of you - :flipoff2:

In tapping my FJ60 for hydro assist, I used the exact same 7/16" drill bit, 1/4" NPT tap as the Toy IFS box. The tap locations are also the same - I drilled the 'O' near the top of the TOYODA, so the fitting is up and and kinda out of the way, and you drill the same location on the top of the box. Please note, I use a tube front clip. To make this work on a full fendered suzuki, you will probably have to cut up the fender even more.

I replaced the two external shaft seals on the FJ60 box. There is a rebuild kit for the box which you can get it from Spector Offroad - http://www.sor.com. I didn't use it - I simply took the old seals and shaft measurements into a local bearing shop, and they matched them up with off the shelf products. This cost me about $20 by doing it that way, vs a cross shaft rebuild kit at $40+ from Spector. As for finding the seals at the dealership - my local dealership couldn't find them. I also cleaned up the bottom shaft with very fine sand paper. The shaft had rusted and scaled up, making it very difficult to remove from the box. I had to POUND on it to get it out. I also used a brake cylinder hone to clean up the rust in the bore, making it much easier to put back together.

The connections to the ram are OPPOSITE of the normal Toy IFS box. The lower fitting goes to the farthest port, the top fitting goes to the nearest port.

I'm running a Toy 2wd Pickup pump, with an overdrive pulley on the engine. The engine pulley is from a sprint 1 liter engine w/AC. This combination appears to works pretty good at idle. I'm planning on waiting and seeing if I really need to modify the pump any.

I have OTT steering arms, tied rod, and drag link. One problem with the OTT setup is the steering tie rod is only 1.25" in size. I made my own clamp out of 1.5"/.120 HREW tube. I sliced the tube, welded two tabs and drilled for two bolts. This fits nice and tight on the OTT tie rod, and I can adjust it still. :D




The ram is welded to the top of the housing. This ends up with the ram totally level with the top of the steering tie rod, and since I have not hit anything yet with those, I am hoping the ram does not hit anything also.



As for the steering knuckles, I beefed them up using azrockcrawler's trick of replacing the old 7/16 studs with D44 9/16-20 fine studs, D44 dowels (cone) and D44 stover locknuts. This was the part that took the most time, for I had to find someone to machine the arms. Thanks ChrisV :beer: for the tech on that one, I've broken studs already with no hydro assist, hopefully this will keep the front end together!

Last, the kit came from Rockstomper. If you decide to do this - hey, don't ask me, I did one, and I'm not doing another for a while. :flippoff2:
 

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Looks pretty good! I am hoping to add hydro assist to my Zuk this winter. I am in desperate need of some assistance with the 35's at 3 psi :shaking:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The FJ60 box did pretty good with the Krawlers at 5psi.. Until you got it just right, and then it all came to a stop.

I'm off to play at Hollister Hills this weekend and see if how it all works.
 
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