Ended up getting 40 yards of clay fill dirt in total.
Skiddie guy by the hour
I am aiming to have the new shop floor be at the same elevation as the existing garage floor.
Setting up for 5" of concrete and 4" of gravel. Might be overkill but I will have a 2 post lift eventually and want to make sure I feel good about it when I have a vehicle up on the lift.
How she sits today. I am actually standing on top of the last 10 yards of dirt that has been waiting to get spread out for over a week now.
We are now entertaining the idea of putting a half bath inside the shop. I was told that I needed 36" frost footings around where the bathroom itself will be per city (the rest can be normal slab) so I am in the process of drawing everything up and finding a plumber that wants to play along. Open to any input you all might have on this.
I haven't seen any specs for a footer on a lift yet but I could always be wrong.
I want to get lift with capacity for a 1 ton pickup even though I don't have one at the moment (10,000 or 11,000lb lift). Never know what I will drag home...
My current concrete spec is: 5" 4,000 psi with #4 rebar on 24" centers
I just pulled up a couple examples to see what the various manufacturers spec'd. I will definitely be doing more research here. BendPak has the most strict standards.
Atlas PV-10P (10,000lb cap): 4" of concrete with 3,000psi (no spec on rebar)
Triumph 11,000 floor plate lift: 4" of concrete with 3,000psi (no spec on rebar)
Danmar 10,000 Lb 2 Post Lift: 4” of concrete with 3,000 PSI Steel Reinforced (not specific on the type of steel)
BendPak XPR-10AXLS: 4.5" of concrete with 3,000psi and #6 rebar on 12" centers
seems like a lot of rebar, I sent them a message to see if my spec would be adequate.
Surprising that they don't call it out, my oops. Maybe they are deferring to the Engineer, I would.
The gray area in between is where all those gray hairs come from. If the standard footing is 2x2 feet, then the load capacity of the footing should be at least 10,000 pounds (2 ft. x 2 ft. x 2,500 pounds per square foot), and perhaps even more if the soil has a bearing capacity in excess of 2,500 psf. You can probably support a little bit more given that 2,500 psf is a fairly conservative soil capacity (unless you built on muck) If your column load is more than 12,000 pounds, or if you’re not really sure there is a 2x2 footing, put in a new one of adequate size.
Surprising that they don't call it out, my oops. Maybe they are deferring to the Engineer, I would.
The gray area in between is where all those gray hairs come from. If the standard footing is 2x2 feet, then the load capacity of the footing should be at least 10,000 pounds (2 ft. x 2 ft. x 2,500 pounds per square foot), and perhaps even more if the soil has a bearing capacity in excess of 2,500 psf. You can probably support a little bit more given that 2,500 psf is a fairly conservative soil capacity (unless you built on muck) If your column load is more than 12,000 pounds, or if you’re not really sure there is a 2x2 footing, put in a new one of adequate size.
Ya, it is weird that they aren't really specific about it. BendPak is the only one that was super specific especially if you have inadequate pad and have to cut in a pad. So far from everybody I have talked to and researched I am way good. I even hit up a guy selling lifts on FB and he said what I had spec'd was plenty.
My update for today is that my dirt is still not spread out and the skid steer guy I had hired just went on vacation for a week and a half. I am getting antsy and just want it done so I found another guy that is more expensive but will finish it this Sat (supposed to rain Mon). He also has a laser that he will bring so we can check grade on the fly.
I am picking up a narrow pallet jack tomorrow (trading some junk for an old used rusty on on FB). I have...a plan for organizing the new shop and making it modular so I can move stuff around as needed. Should be cool.
Taking a break from the shop build. I made some progress on PJ's front bumper.
Adding a hoop to protect the hood/radiator/winch.
I still need to add tubes to either side that will wrap around to the fender. More on that later.
This is the best part about having a hoop up front. I can see where the bumper is at from the drivers seat that way I can gauge how close I am to stuff before I actually hit it.
Fabbed up a bracket for the kill switch. I like to be able to disconnect the winch when not in use. Never know when electronics will go south.
Garage update: one department at the city approved, handed off to another department and now I am back to waiting again. I can't get a start date from the builder until I have approved permits.
Next project. Mini boatsides and rock sliders
Nice little pile of rust in there... :lol:
Drivers side. This side wasn't even rusted through, but there was a lot going on beneath.
Mocking up the sliders
That is it for today. Next up is to patch the bottom of the rockers where there is now a large hole then finish up the rock sliders.
Soooo. My shop build date of November just got pushed back to December sometime because of lumber shortages... fun times.
In other news, I went wheeling at KS Rocks couple of weeks ago and everything went great until a couple of hours in I was spinning my tires up a steep hill and heard a pop then the 4wd quit working. Turns out the collar I had welded in the front diff up to permanently engage decided to be not so permanent and broke my weld.
So I tore it down and took a video of how the front differential actually engages the 4wd because I thought it was kind of cool.
Once I took the spring off, there is all kinds of room to weld the collar again so I will be doing that later this week as I get motivation.
Soooo. My shop build date of November just got pushed back to December sometime because of lumber shortages... fun times.
In other news, I went wheeling at KS Rocks couple of weeks ago and everything went great until a couple of hours in I was spinning my tires up a steep hill and heard a pop then the 4wd quit working. Turns out the collar I had welded in the front diff up to permanently engage decided to be not so permanent and broke my weld.
So I tore it down and took a video of how the front differential actually engages the 4wd because I thought it was kind of cool.
Once I took the spring off, there is all kinds of room to weld the collar again so I will be doing that later this week as I get motivation.
So, if you were to weld up the spiders/side gears together, but let the actuator still move, would you have no front axle traction with it disengaged, or 1 wheel action?
I guess I am wondering if it almost becomes like a selectable locker of sorts?
So, if you were to weld up the spiders/side gears together, but let the actuator still move, would you have no front axle traction with it disengaged, or 1 wheel action?
I guess I am wondering if it almost becomes like a selectable locker of sorts?
I actually thought about this when I was welding it back up. It would work like that in theory but I decided against it because I wanted to eliminate the weak link which is the actuator itself. I ended up pulling it again and just welding the spider cage solid with 8 rosette welds to the carrier. I also welded the teeth together for good measure.
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