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Safety third!
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I have had to do damn near every single core plug on my 460 except the easy to get one in the back. :laughing: Never going back to steel plugs again; brass only. I've even had better luck using the rubber quickie repair ones.

For future reference though, I have run an Edelbrock intake for years, and simply used stock Felpro gaskets, and not the upscale ones. Use black RTV in a fat bead on the front and rear, lapping a dime sized smear under and on top of the corners of the intake gaskets. I don't have any leaks from there.

I also despise cork gaskets. Gotta use them with RTV. I'll gladly pay money for the badass felpros, but you can also get better life out of the cheaper cork and rubber by running a solid machined valve cover. Stock covers just bend over their lives and don't help much. I'm a fan of the Ford Racing ones but they're a little tall. The Ebay unmarked variants are pretty cheap and sometimes can be had for around $70. Actually grabbed a set of the old Ford SVO Motorsport covers a while back for my car. :grinpimp: Paid more but they're a little rare these days. Kinda wished I'd not traded away the 429-460 SVO intake manifold either (rebranded Edebrock Performer RPM).
 

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Discussion Starter #522
finally warmed up enough that i could be in the shop and work on this turd. got the old block heater out and new brass frost plug in. then got started on getting the coil overs in the truck. damn 3inch coil overs are big and had to make new lower mounts to move them out and up. also had to make new upper mounts as well. upper mount bolt on the drive side is real close to the brake master but just clears. still have to charge the coil overs and figure out what im doing about bump stops as cut the old landing pads off.

3 inch coil overs vs 2 inch coil overs :grinpimp:



new lower mounts are moved out and had to make them taller to clear the steering arm, now they are off the truss and onto the inner C. also redid my 3rd link upper on the truss as the Artec one on there was shit. new limiting strap mounts as well





was shooting for 5 inchs of shaft showing at ride height and wound up at 4.5 with 1.5 of preload on the coil overs. so im pretty happy with how its sitting as can adjust to match the rear once i rework it.





 

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Discussion Starter #523
got my ass in gear and finished up the front end rework has had a wheeling trip planned. was never a fan of how my had my bump stops mounted, off the back of the truss and tied into the lower link mounts. was just really tall and ugly looking. with the coil overs being so big and how they are mounted i was not able to just mount them behind the shocks and land right on the truss. looked at inboarded them but would have to move the orbital and make new lines and wasnt sure if would clear the oil filter. so mounted them off the front and had buddy cut me some towers to mount off the front ram mount. gusseted them and know it will bent the steering truss long term so will add some more gussets at a later date









also added a brace from the ram mount back to the main truss



while i had time in the shop i did some other small projects like repainted parts and went from tan to silver. put in new speakers as old ones where blown, moved the trans sender again, also added a set of hella horns



and added a light guard as well, will tie it back into the rad support tube work and notch the hood. just didnt get time to do that



 

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Coming together, its looking good!

Speaking of FSU, good luck with those stock knuckles with full hydro and them big old tires :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #525 (Edited)
loaded up and headed out wheeling on sunday for st patties day and buddys bday. was a great day of snow wheeling but snow was hit and miss. some spots there was almost none but move over 2 feet and would be knee deep, move over another 2 feet and was waist deep. by lunch time it warmed up and the snow started to turn and made it hard going. truck did great all day but right at the end on the way back to the trailer my temp was climing fast just driving down the fsr road. pulled over when it got hot and found out my electric fan wasnt turning on anymore. got a ride back to the trailer and drove to the truck and loaded it up.

pics

















 

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Discussion Starter #527 (Edited)
had a real close call on the way home after loading up after wheeling. was on the fsr road heading back to the hyw, but the road was not great as had warmed up and snow was now slush and ice. there is one steep hill with a hair pin turn at the bottom. once i crested the top of the hill i started to slow down and trailer got out of control and tired to pass the truck. jack knifed past 90 and pushed the truck down the hill well over 1/3rd of the hill sideways. was looking back at the truck on the trailer waiting for it to brake the hitch or catch the snow bank and brake lose and just yard sale all over the place. the hill had a hard snow bank on the drivers side that the front bumper was pushed into. pass side that the trailer was on was a big drop off, the hair pin at the bottom had a big drop off as well. rode it out and came to a stop and was able to back up and work the truck straight enough to get out of it and carry on back to the hyw and home. got real lucky as the damage to truck and trailer is not as bad as i thought it was going to be and just happy it wasnt worse

truck bumper is dented and pushed over and up a bit, box side under the tail light took most of the truck damage. bent the shit out of my good hitch and wrote off the dry box on the trailer. need to look at the trailer better with a square and tape measure to make sure no more damage to it but to the eye it looks ok.







 

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Discussion Starter #528
Coming together, its looking good!

Speaking of FSU, good luck with those stock knuckles with full hydro and them big old tires :flipoff2:
thanks man and ya i know the stock ford knuckles are on very borrowed time. bank account is not a fan of buying Reids so will plate them and hope for the best. right now i need to figure out why my fan died and look at getting a bigger rad. when the fan was working the fan would keep the truck cool but when on it breaking trail i was good for about 10 mins of beating on it before getting hot. rad is just to small for the motor, as stop and give it few mins and the fan would cool it right back down.
 

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thanks man and ya i know the stock ford knuckles are on very borrowed time. bank account is not a fan of buying Reids so will plate them and hope for the best. right now i need to figure out why my fan died and look at getting a bigger rad. when the fan was working the fan would keep the truck cool but when on it breaking trail i was good for about 10 mins of beating on it before getting hot. rad is just to small for the motor, as stop and give it few mins and the fan would cool it right back down.
See just when I get semi-comfortable with switching to an e-fan, I log on and see this! I gotta figure out some kind of backup plan. Maybe even just carrying a spare fan on my trip. Two adults in a standard cab Ranger for a week I'm trying to keep excess spares and junk to a minimum.
 

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Discussion Starter #530
See just when I get semi-comfortable with switching to an e-fan, I log on and see this! I gotta figure out some kind of backup plan. Maybe even just carrying a spare fan on my trip. Two adults in a standard cab Ranger for a week I'm trying to keep excess spares and junk to a minimum.
i have yet to test the fan but i might still be ok, the wiring connector is melted so might be an easy fix. as right now it just pops the breaker in line so not turning on. fan was doing a great job as once truck got hot it only took a minute or two of idle and was cooled right back down. rad is just to small and knew that when putting in the truck but was hoping for the best.

so with needing a bigger rad id like some input on whats a better option to go with. i dont want to do rear mount so im limited to say close to same size im runing now. current rad is an aluminum race rad that is 28x19x3 and 2 core. in the same size i can get a dual pass or triple pass, can also get a 3 core rad that is same size just thicker and i am able to run a thicker rad. other option is buy a second rad same as i have now and get buddy to weld them together with new tanks.
 

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Good wheeling pics, looks like you guys had some fun!

Bummer on the trailer/truck situation but guess it could've been worse. I towed in the snow for the first time recently (I know, lame Californian, spoiled weather, blah, blah, blah :flipoff2:) and it definitely demands a different level of attention.

See just when I get semi-comfortable with switching to an e-fan, I log on and see this! I gotta figure out some kind of backup plan. Maybe even just carrying a spare fan on my trip. Two adults in a standard cab Ranger for a week I'm trying to keep excess spares and junk to a minimum.
Here's another way to think about it. Find a front wheel drive car on the road without an e-fan. Even most new RWD, AWD, 4x4 vehicles have e-fans. Literally millions of OEM's running e-fans. When was the last time you heard of a stock vehicle having an issue with an e-fan?

If I think about every issue I've had with an e-fan (and I've had issues) it was always due to my hack wiring or shitty parts. You hear about issues with e-fans because people use junkyard parts and hack the wiring together at midnight to get on the trail and never fix it. I've been one of those people, and I've had issues.

Almost 2 years ago I bought a new e-fan. I bought a good weather proof relay block, soldered all the wires and connectors and used heat shrink and plastic loom around everything. It probably took an extra hour to do it right and it's been 100% trouble free since install.
 

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Discussion Starter #532 (Edited)
did a once over of the truck on the weekend and nothing wrong after the wheeling trip other then the fan issue. have a new bigger better rad on order as well as a new fan set up, so hope that will take care of the cooling issues.

pulled the front 60 apart as have never rebuilt this diff and this is the 3rd truck ive had it in now. king pins had play in them and the bearings on the one side probably only had one more run left in them. also pulled the carrier and for the most part i looked good in there even if oil was a little shiny. so plan is to add my full spool and regear with oem ford 10" 4.88 gears. new spicer ujoints, new wheel bearings, new king pins, and drill my hubs out for 9/16 wheel studs as have little 1/2 studs right now. will also plate the knuckles and do a better job of tieing the high steer in as never liked my tube just welded to the side of the arm. will also do a new front drive shaft as the one in there i built in a rush and is not close to true and shakes the truck like is on with drawls



 

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Discussion Starter #536 (Edited)
If I end up moving to North ID this summer, I think I'm going to start a 4wd parts smuggling business :flipoff2:
please do, more then willing meet at the boarder with beer, maple syrup and poutine to trade for truck parts :grinpimp:

edit: just to give you an idea of how bad it is, i just ordered a dana 60 crush sleeve eliminator for $30 and paid $28 in shipping
 

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Discussion Starter #537
been slowing work on the front end stuff. drilled out the hubs and pressed in some 9/16 wheel studs. everything is cleaned and ready to go back together, just need to set up the gears this weekend.

plated the stock ford knuckles to hopefully hold me over till i can buy aftermarket ones





built some quick tools for putting the lower king pins back together





knuckles back on, added some 1 inch plate to the side of my steer arms to make them Artec knock offs. little bit better then some tube welded to the side like i had before

 

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Discussion Starter #538
pretty much all done with the front diff rebuild, new ford 10" ring gear 4.88 with full spool. just have to put the cover on and dump some oil in it. also go the rear gears done this weekend.

this will probably be the death of my D60 pinon :evil: 1480 ujoint next to the old 1350





 

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Discussion Starter #540
1480!? Planning on using old 60 axle shafts to make a driveshaft?
have 3 rear drive shafts out of the newer superduty trucks from work and they are all 1480. so figured it was cheaper to buy a 1480 yoke and make a drive shaft from the free ones i have then to buy all the stuff to make a 1410 shaft as have no parts to build from.
 
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