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Discussion Starter #1
I know this topic has been posted to death, but I really need to know the facts.

I am running All-Pro 5" front springs on my Runner. To match that in the rear, I was going to use the Chevy springs. I already have longer shackles (about 2 to 2 1/2"), and 1 1/2" lift blocks. Which chevy springs will give me the height I need? The 3 leaf, or 4 leaf? 2wd or 4wd? And exactly what year Chevy springs? Also, what do I have to do to make sure the rear axle stays centered in the wheel well? Anyone have exact measurements? Do I need new spring hangers for the front mounting points, or can I cut off the old ones and re-use them?
 

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come awn guys answere this guys question!!!!!

all i know for your aplication you will move the front mount 11" farward and the back mount(shackle)back 4" and should be centered.

i personally would like to know your other questions too..
 

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check out the tech section!

there is some data about the swap and another link!

<IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/ghost.gif" border="0">
 

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...Ya, but there's no link. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

use 3.5x3.5x1/4 for the front hanger. Mine was mounted 11 1/8" (We fawked up <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">) forward... Just bash/cut the old ones... I did the double shackle setup... I used the chev shackle and a 5.5" center-to-center shackle between the old mount (stock location) and the chev shackle...

...I'd say use the 3 pack on a p/u (I did), maybe the 4 on a Runner... My 3 works great (that's my only mod, btw <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">)...

...get new ubolts. Do the flip. Might as well.

It's EASY as hell to do, other than getting all the old shit off...

Also, if you want to match front... I figure I got 2 or so inches (looks like 4 cuz my front's sagged 2 <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">)... Maybe 3... So a Pro-Comp Add-A-Leaf and/or block (ie: aal = ~4", so add a 1" block, should match)

Hope that helps somewhat. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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if you do a double shackle you wont have to move the rear hanger. i ended up with about 3" of lift after the swap. i had a 2 leaf + overload pack. i put in an add a leaf (full length) and ended up with aboun 4-4.5" of lift.

derek
 

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Discussion Starter #6
OK, so the consensus is that these springs will give a 2 to 3" lift over stock, all by themselves. Any additional height can be obtained in different ways.

Let me ask this. If I bobbed my Runner, there would be less than 3" of frame behind the existing mounting point for the shackles. Can someone explaine in more detail the double shackle setup? I have longer shackles that I will need to keep on the springs to add height. How can I get the 4" backspace behind the stock point using these shackles? I have seen the pictures and tech articles, but still need to understand better. Do the double shackles act as a boomerang style shackle? Won't these shackles allow the back ends of the springs to move sideways too much?
 

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Originally posted by TROYOTA:
<STRONG>Let me ask this. If I bobbed my Runner, there would be less than 3" of frame behind the existing mounting point for the shackles. Can someone explaine in more detail the double shackle setup? I have longer shackles that I will need to keep on the springs to add height. How can I get the 4" backspace behind the stock point using these shackles? I have seen the pictures and tech articles, but still need to understand better. Do the double shackles act as a boomerang style shackle? Won't these shackles allow the back ends of the springs to move sideways too much?</STRONG>
No. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> My double-shackle setup doesn't move at ALL sideways. I think you could get away with a shorter shackle than 5", but I wouldn't want to. My shackle angle on the Chev's is vertical, and I like it that way.

...Also, you don't need to bob the frame as much as you bob your bed. Even if the double shackle rest sits directly under the tailgate, or even under the bumper, is no biggie, if it doesn't bother you.

...You could also move the mount 15" forward and eliminate the problem, but that would require driveline mods.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Now were getting somewhere

soooooo, if I move the front mounts 15" forward, then I could drill new holes for the centering pins 4" back from the original location. I heard that drilling through a leaf pack isn't a good idea because it would incourage cracking of the leafs. Is this true? Anyone running leaf packs with a home drilled holes? <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by TROYOTA:
<STRONG>Now were getting somewhere

soooooo, if I move the front mounts 15" forward, then I could drill new holes for the centering pins 4" back from the original location. I heard that drilling through a leaf pack isn't a good idea because it would incourage cracking of the leafs. Is this true? Anyone running leaf packs with a home drilled holes? <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
...You just brought up an interesting point. I would say don't drill the leaves... But you COULD lengthen the perch with a piece of plate and drill the hole 4" forward... This would effectively lengthen the spring, too... Which COULD result in more droop... if you set up the shackle right. At that point, I'd be tempted to move the shackle mounting point 4" FORWARD, and running the double-shackle.

With the double shackle, you should get HELLLLLLLLLLA droop, if you did that.

Keep in mind tho, that I may be totally wrong. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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If you want your tailgate to go down after you bob the Runner, you'll need a 2" body lift to run the double shackled chevy's. Or trim two notches where the shackle is going to hit the body. My front mount is 11.5" forward. The back top shackle is actually a unistrut coupler from Home Depot. The chevy shackle bolts right to it. I welded a piece of 1/4" angle iron to the end of the frame where I cut it off to keep the "toyota" shackle flat to the frame. There is also a piece of 1" flat stock welded to the shackle to keep the double shackle from inverting. Works well for $100 springs.
Email me privately if you want some pics.
 

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So how would a double shackle compare to doing a buggy spring in the back in terms of droop? What are the disadvantages of the buggy spring?

Milan
 
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