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I've been running 35's since 1989 when the truck was new...it had 4.10 gears and sucked(even with the V-6), si I went to 4.56 and broke a rear R&P....couldn't find a 4.56, so I went to 4.88. I have Detroit in rear and an Auburn LSD in the front...I have replaced ONE idler and spent many miles on the trails....broke ALL the lug bolts off the passenger side once, but never ruined and other stuff....I now have a 4.3 and will probably start breaking parts since I have a bit of a lead foot......I am working on a D44 for the front, but only because I want to go to 38" TSL SX Swampers... <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
 

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See my sig. Handles fine on the road, although braking distance increased. The 5.29s with 35s are way better than 4.10s with 31s. I pass those guys on the hills and they are thinking of downshifting to 3rd and I'm running 4th w/o a sweat. If your rig has ADD, swap the flanges for some IFS manual hubs, a direct bolt on deal and save your CV's and boots. The only thing I've broke thus far is the tires hitting the fender flare due to not enough lift.

[ 09-24-2001: Message edited by: ToyFord ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Originally posted by ToyFord:
<STRONG>See my sig. Handles fine on the road, although braking distance increased. The 5.29s with 35s are way better than 4.10s with 31s. I pass those guys on the hills and they are thinking of downshifting to 3rd and I'm running 4th w/o a sweat. If your rig has ADD, swap the flanges for some IFS manual hubs, a direct bolt on deal and save your CV's and boots. The only thing I've broke thus far is the tires hitting the fender flare due to not enough lift.

[ 09-24-2001: Message edited by: ToyFord ]</STRONG>
why would manual hubs save the boots? I thought that they were pretty much fine as long as they were within there operating range (degrees wise). Are you saying do this if I go to 35's, or just period. I do have ADD by the way. <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0">
 

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If your rig has ADD, swap the flanges for some IFS manual hubs, a direct bolt on deal and save your CV's and boots.
Do this no matter what, to save the wear of all your front drivetrain spinning as you drive. As a side benefit you won't have to worry about your ADD not engaging and leaving you in two-wheel drive!


Oh yeah, TRD12 what wheels did you run with which tires and your thoughts on this?

Thanks,
Nate

[ 09-24-2001: Message edited by: Nate C ]
 

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I got 33's on mine and some times 36's,V6,4.56 and I welded up the front diff.
messed up the bearing that supports the diff drive flange but it still is holding together,it just makes alot of funny noises,the solid axle is in the garage.
 

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I've run both 35x14.50 boggers and ssr's. The damage count so far is a busted center link for the steering, both lift brackets on the passenger side and finally the front ring and pinion. As far as driveability, I lost 5th gear with the boggers, but gained it back when I got the ssr's. The truck drives fine in town and on the freeway. I've gotten it up to 85 (probably a little over 90 after speedo correction). Hills are a different story, if I want to keep a 60+ mph pace, it's third gear.
 

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Originally posted by Nate C:
<STRONG>Oh yeah, TRD12 what wheels did you run with which tires and your thoughts on this?</STRONG>
With the Boggers, I ran black 15x10 Rockcrawler steel rims. They were primary wheel'n tires so I wanted something I could thrash and not worry about, plus the steel rims don't crack, they only bend as oppose to aluminum which cracks instead of bending. As for the MT/Rs and Claws, I used 15x10 American Racing Outlaw II aluminum rims to save weight because they were daily driver tires. If you don't do much wheel'n or even if you do mild wheel'n, the MT/Rs and aluminum rims make a sweet combo cause they're really nice on the road and they kick ass off-road as well, as long as you don't mind chewing the sides of your aluminum rims on rocks here and there <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Originally posted by Nate C:
<STRONG>As a side benefit you won't have to worry about your ADD not engaging and leaving you in two-wheel drive!</STRONG>
actually, the ADD engages itself in the front differential, so putting on locking hubs wouldn't really help anything if the ADD went out <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/crybaby2.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Originally posted by Wilson:
<STRONG>I've run both 35x14.50 boggers and ssr's. The damage count so far is a busted center link for the steering, both lift brackets on the passenger side and finally the front ring and pinion. As far as driveability, I lost 5th gear with the boggers, but gained it back when I got the ssr's. The truck drives fine in town and on the freeway. I've gotten it up to 85 (probably a little over 90 after speedo correction). Hills are a different story, if I want to keep a 60+ mph pace, it's third gear.</STRONG>
are you running 5.29's, or stockers? <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Nate C:
As a side benefit you won't have to worry about your ADD not engaging and leaving you in two-wheel drive!
--------------------------------------

actually, the ADD engages itself in the front differential, so putting on locking hubs wouldn't really help anything if the ADD went out
Crawlytoy, you missed the point. If you run manual hubs, then you can permanently move the add to the engaged position and throw away all the rest of the switches, lines, etc. Just a couple of weeks ago we helped a stuck guy at the con whose jeep (same basic system) wouldn't engage 4x4. His front add collar wouldn't shift over, so he was stuck in 4x2 on top of a couple of big rocks right at the entrance to the trail.

Always nice when the darn vacuum motor doesn't work! That's why hubs and a manual lever, not a button, are the best.
 

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I ran 35's w/ IFS for a while, ran tough trails, and didn't break anything at all while rock crawling. The only things I broke were CV axles and that was only when I was using the gas pedal way too much. <IMG SRC="smilies/redface.gif" border="0">



You definitely want an idler arm brace though:
 

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I've been running 35's on my '94 for about 2 years now. Only break I've had was a stub shaft. I've got 5.29's in it and a truetrac (garbage).
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Originally posted by Nate C:
<STRONG>Crawlytoy, you missed the point. If you run manual hubs, then you can permanently move the add to the engaged position and throw away all the rest of the switches, lines, etc. Just a couple of weeks ago we helped a stuck guy at the con whose jeep (same basic system) wouldn't engage 4x4. His front add collar wouldn't shift over, so he was stuck in 4x2 on top of a couple of big rocks right at the entrance to the trail.

Always nice when the darn vacuum motor doesn't work! That's why hubs and a manual lever, not a button, are the best.</STRONG>
no, I understand all that, I thought you thought......nevermind <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> How exactly do you put the ADD diff into 4x permanently? I've thought of doing this before, but was never sure how? I will most likely be doing the 'con later on this year, and it would be nice to get that outta there. What do you do with the vacuum lines that actuate it? I kinda like the ADD setup so far, just because I don't have to worry about getting out and locking the hubs. I know it'll probably get me in trouble some day though. <IMG SRC="smilies/crybaby2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eyemouth.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
I think what I'm gonna do is go ahead and lift the truck first and maybe even stick some 33's on just for fun (I alread have 4.56's anyway). Then I can dedide whether I want 35's or not, before I gear and lock. Those of you with 35's, hw much lift do you run? I'm putting on about 4-5", and any more clearance needed after that will come from hacked fenders. Will 35's fit in stock fenders, or do they have to be hacked?
 

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Sorry that it took so long to reply, I am running the stock 4.10 gears, I plan on going to 4.88 after the sas this weekend, I'm selling my four inch lift by the way. My 35's fit fine in the wells, I had to trim the front valance and eventually removed it. I'm running the four inch suspension,and a three inch body to clear my tires, but they are 14.50's and my wheels are offset quite a bit. I'd add pics, but I don't have a page yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Originally posted by Nate C:
<STRONG>Crawlytoy,
just trying to clarify <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

anyway see this link http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/

<IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
I fail to see anything of significance on the link you gave me <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"> Didn't see anything about ADD anyway <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> I'll look again in a second, probably just missed it?
 

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Crawlytoy, I got some advice on posting pics, so here's one. The tire is a 35x 14.50 bogger. It fits fine in the wheel well as you can see, but rubs a little bit on the frame when the suspension is compressed, but that's just because of the width.
<IMG width=496 height=446 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/tire fit.jpg">
 
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