Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
336 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have read a lot about the poly performance builder kits and like them a lot. Wondered if anyone had real world driving experience with them on an LJ with coilovers. Will be a pretty frequent daily driver and I am going to do my best to keep it low, 3.5-4.5 lift Then run hi line fenders for clearance. Prob run anti rocks as well. Would like to make the arms mid ish length to help the long lady not get hung up to much. Thanks for any input.

Oh and side note I currently often drive my sprung over samurai as my daily driver so not like I'm going to be comparing it to a camry or something. Just want it to be fairly stable and have pretty decent on road manners. And I despise radius arm style suspension from an engineering standpoint.

Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
737 Posts
I don't run all of the components Poly supplies but I do run something similar. My rear suspension consists of Poly frame brackets, LCA brackets, and a custom truss/upper bracket setup. The arms are 'mid length' (24" lowers) and use 2.5" Currie JJ's at all ends. Up front, I use Poly lower frame brackets, custom frame and axle upper brackets I built, and modified axle brackets from Clayton. The links are the same length as the rear (2.5" JJ's all around), with the upper link being on the driver side. I run Currie AR's on both ends, Bilstein 5100's at all corners, and Currie 3" springs.

I don't know why you're concerned but a properly built and executed link suspension will drive and handle on the road fantastic. Mine is smooth, tight, silent and handles very well. I could hand the keys over to a complete stranger and not worry a bit. You should be more worried about how you address the steering and brakes. I drive my rig on the road all the time, any time I feel like it. It doesn't get trailered and I drive out of state to wheel at times. If it wasn't for the shitty gas mileage, I'd drive it every day.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
336 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info. I shouldve added that I am not against using regular coils and shocks. That would save substantial coin for me. Looks like you did that and used coilover style brackets. That seems like a great idea and easily would allow switching/upgrading later on.

Glad to hear it drives so rock solid on the street. It will be my first link suspension build so just trying to cover all my bases before hand.
 

·
NERD
Joined
·
8,622 Posts
Poly kits are great, get them.


I run the Poly frame side lower control arm mounts and like them a lot. I used to get hung up on the factory mounts constantly. I run 28" arms in the front and 32" arms out back. 3" stretch out front, 4" stretch out back. Still running coils and shocks, probably will for a while since they're cheap and easy.

Proper geometry is what makes a rig drive well, the kit itself only goes so far. Luckily the Poly kits are adjustable and can be set up any way you want.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
737 Posts
Proper geometry is what makes a rig drive well, the kit itself only goes so far.
x2 on this.

Arm length matters a lot less than most think. I ran a variation of my current suspension before lengthening the wheelbase--'short' arms, massive clearance, and a tiny footprint under the frame and between the tires. It outperformed every 'off the shelf' suspension kit I put it against. Length matters not so much, knowledge and geometry matter a lot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
336 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Anyone running em mind throwing up some link lengths? Maybe likes/dislikes of the suspension as they have it set up? As stated will be a while still until I start the build but would sure love to have it all planned out so i'm not laying on the floor scratching my head with parts everywhere!

Really appreciate the input!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
737 Posts
Anyone running em mind throwing up some link lengths? Maybe likes/dislikes of the suspension as they have it set up? As stated will be a while still until I start the build but would sure love to have it all planned out so i'm not laying on the floor scratching my head with parts everywhere!

Really appreciate the input!
Put the mounts where you want them on the frame and tack them in. Set the axle where you want it. Frame mount eye to axle mount eye = arm length. Leave room for adjustment. If you look at where my frame mounts are, they are further away from the center of the Jeep to give me less of a footprint under the frame and between the tires. I've got no complaints about my suspension at all but I set it up exactly how I wanted it. Don't waste your time trying to get things all figured out and down to 1/16's of an inch. Get your frame all cleaned off, set the axle where you want it and get the mounts in. Then start playing with it and figuring things.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top