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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a '73 scout II with a ford dana 60 rear and a chevy flat top dana44 with high steer up front. I'm running a 5.3l with a 4L80e and an Np241 transfer case.
The Problem:
in 4wd the front end pops like its slipping gears any time torque is applied. the drive shaft actually seems to jump back when the sound occurs. I have already replaced the Chain in the Np241 thinking that would fix it. It didn't. i opened up the the diff and the backlash on the ring gear is good but when the hubs are locked there is about an inch of play in the pinion. The spider gears seam a little worn and maybe slightly loose. the axle u joints could probably be replaced.

Whats your best guess? spider gears? could my hubs be slipping? they where on the axle when i bought it.
 

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Take your hubs apart and inspect them, u-joints good? When you turn the pinion with the hubs locked, you say there's about an inch of play? Is it turning the ring gear AND the axle shafts right away? Or is there play there too? Or just at the hub?
 

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Pull the hubs and shafts and inspect the U-joints, it seems like that would be the likely culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
the u-joints are worn and probably need replacing there is a little play between the stub and main shafts. The axle turn half an inch before the hubs engage.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok u joints are first thing to be replaced. does that explain the popping/clunking that occurs pretty consistently while i apply torque. Example going up a hill in 4wd it will pop over and over all the way up. feels like something is slipping .
 

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HARDliner
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ok u joints are first thing to be replaced. does that explain the popping/clunking that occurs pretty consistently while i apply torque. Example going up a hill in 4wd it will pop over and over all the way up. feels like something is slipping .
Not sure on the slipping feeling you are describing, but yes on the popping. If there is play in a standard ujoint...then you are just crushing and grinding the rollers as you drive hard. When you pull it apart, there will be little bits of metal and ground metal powder in the cap....mixed with grease it makes a grey/black metal goo.

The easiest thing to do it replace the ujoints with some heavier versions and see how she feels climbing then.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I just took the hubs apart and found that the passenger side had a broken locating lip thing. it was allowing the gear thing that goes over the splines on the stub shaft to float back and fourth. i imagine that if the locking gear in the outer hub couldnt engage the inner one that was being allowed to float that they would slip apart until the springs in the hub pushed them back together.

I'll order new hubs and replace the u-joints in the axles and see what that does.
 

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Looks like you found a problem. I've seen a few 241's slip and it feels like its coming from the front end.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i replaced axle u-joints, installed brand new warn hubs, and brand new tcase chain not to mention new ball joints. and drive shaft u-joins are new. still having the popping/clunking noise. Help!?
 

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Is the pinion seal leaking?
 

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pinion seal leaking meaning the pinion bearing could be blown?
I Would keep playing with your locking hubs. I have one that I have had apart probably 20 times trying to get it to quit doing exactly what you describe. Mine started when I locked the front diff.
I have a theory that on mine the hub itself could be slightly out of round causing the locking hub to bind when its trying to lock...but thats just a theory, mine has been sitting for a while waiting on time to work on it again....

Try finding a set of drive flanges and throw in your front axle and see if your problem goes away.
 

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pinion seal leaking meaning the pinion bearing could be blown?
Yeah. In the OP's first post he said "the driveshaft actually seems to jump back" so a leaky pinion seal should be an easy tell tale sign of bearing failure. Not 100% in some cases but if it's leaking....
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So i spent the whole day dropping the case and rebuilding it to see if i could see some indication of what was going on inside. Everything looked perfect. I had purchased it as a re-manufactured part so i expected to see brand new everything inside. Which leads me to my next point.
I got a JB conversions SYE and i went back through the instructions. i had decided not to replace the rear output bearing thinking that it was new and didn't need it BUT i was wrong! I had read past the part that explained why. So the original bearing i had left in it didn't support the shaft so when toque was applied the to chain sprockets would get misaligned and the chain would slip off. Similar to what would happen if that same bearing was blown.

Took the ol'scout out and no popping!

Thanks everyone for your input!
 

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HARDliner
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So i spent the whole day dropping the case and rebuilding it to see if i could see some indication of what was going on inside. Everything looked perfect. I had purchased it as a re-manufactured part so i expected to see brand new everything inside. Which leads me to my next point.
I got a JB conversions SYE and i went back through the instructions. i had decided not to replace the rear output bearing thinking that it was new and didn't need it BUT i was wrong! I had read past the part that explained why. So the original bearing i had left in it didn't support the shaft so when toque was applied the to chain sprockets would get misaligned and the chain would slip off. Similar to what would happen if that same bearing was blown.

Took the ol'scout out and no popping!

Thanks everyone for your input!
At least you did some preventative maintenance on the front end. I'm glad you got it sorted out :D
 
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