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Discussion Starter #1
Post them here. I have a brother with an FJ60 and I need alot of pics and any input. Like how much lift did you get? What problems did/have you encountered? What should we consider?
Can we use his stock springs? We would like to see some pictures of some cool rigs to boost our spirit, so all you dudes with cool trucks can just post them right here. Thanks for any input and hopefully some cool pics.

Nick
 

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Look at www.ih8mud.com under members rigs for pics. then check out the tech section for instructions.

Stock springs work great, and I think are the most common in SOA. I think the average amount of lift is 6". Do you plan to cut'n'turn the front pinion?? Driveshaft mods will be neccesary, new shocks, most likely steering mods (crossover). read every SOA write-up in the ih8mud tech section, that's where I got my info and I did mine in my driveway.
 

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link

heres a link to look at lots o cool pics everyone put on before :D
 

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Actually, the cut and turn of the KNUCKLES to re-align the pinion angle is highly debated. There are plenty of 60s (and I have even seen some 40s with stock springs) runnin' without cut-and-turn of the knuckles. If you don't go HUGE you don't HAVE to do it. Also, with some FJ60's you won't even have to do any driveshaft mods--mostly depending on the years, but most 60's have slip-shafts that are long enough to take the extension of an SOA--but, you may have to notch the tcase crossmember . I have seen a 60 in Moab that had SOA where they just flipped the perches 180 degrees, used the stock springs, ran longer shocks, notched the cross-member and bought a double-steering arm for the steering and it rocked those rocks just fine. Ya, your rig *might* be better if you cut-and-turn, but it might not--personnally I would (and am going to) try it out first without the cut and turn--if I seem to get some crappy vibration, then I'll either go with lower springs (like back to stock springs), cut-and-turn the knuckles, or get an extra custom cv driveshaft. I know some of the 60s have a stock cv joint driveshaft--not sure on the years, and specifics, but somebody else might. One of the most important parts of the SOA is the steering--but there are a whole bunch of ways to do that as well--some kinda sketchy, but most are quite good. As suggested already, read ALL the write-ups on IH8Mud.com (and other websites) about SOAs--even the ones for the 40s help, although, they have more trouble with the driveshafts and pinion angle worries than the 60s do--and make your own choice. Personally, I would love to pay the mucho dinero it takes for a shop to complete an SOA conversion--but that's because it would save me all the work--but I don't have that much. I have some good smart friends that know cruisers and some good smart friends that know alot about alot of other stuff and I am sure we all are going to be able to handle it very competently. And don't worry, you will have people tell you opposite of this and that--that's why you need to do your own research and not just listen to some shmoe and what he thinks about it.
 

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ninetimesnine said:
.... I have seen a 60 in Moab that had SOA where they just flipped the perches 180 degrees, used the stock springs, ran longer shocks, notched the cross-member and bought a double-steering arm for the steering and it rocked those rocks just fine. ...
I'de like to see the pinion angle on that bad boy... sure it works but I bet he can't use the 4wd at any speed over 10mph... There is honestly no way to retain the stock caster while making your pinion angle usable (and with the increased lift of a spring over, the pinion angle needs to be more, not the same amount)... Plus I always recommend turning the caster forward to at least 3-4 degrees, they come stock at about 1 degree forward.

Different strokes for differents folks but I wouldn't waste my time putting it all together without the cut and turn... even on the mildest spring over. For the $100 it costs it can only improve the spring over. Plus completely tearing the front end apart and removing the spring perches is a PITA to do TWICE... Just my opinion...

And yes I can have my truck in 4wd, hubs locked at over 60 mph without any bad vibs...;)
 

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I'm sorry but double steering arms are old news. There is about zero reaon to buy a new one today... I mean if you already have one, great, use it, but to pay for a new one when there are so many vendors selling Hi-steer... not a good idea. There are alot of pro's to running the hi-steer setups... only one to the double steering arm... the ability to be SO...:D

Just another opinion...;)
 

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ninetimesnine said:
...Personally, I would love to pay the mucho dinero it takes for a shop to complete an SOA conversion...
Drag your front housing down to SLC and we'll hook you up on a cut and turn.. I promise you will want it after you put it all together and if your time is worth more than $5 an hour... do it now... :D

Not to mention, new inner alxe seals... new gear lube... new knuckle grease... and really messy hands... :D
 

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BJ On Roids said:
do a cut and turn!!

if that dude is gunna do it for $100 give him the money!
Thats our special right now... comes with a side of spring perches for extra $$$... :D

Would you like to supersize that order? ;)
 

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I agree with Kurt, to purposely go out and build a SO Land Cruiser these days and use a double arm seems kind of pointless, one of the best things about my Cruiser is that ALL of the steering components are above the springs and out of the way!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the input. We hope on turning the knuckles, but it is pretty expensive so we were hoping on not having to do it. Seems as though it might be a good idea. Anyway, keep it coming.
More pics?
 

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eviltwin said:
... We hope on turning the knuckles, but it is pretty expensive so we were hoping on not having to do it. ...
Plop that bad boy in the mail with an envelope on each end and stuff it the mailbox... no problemo... cut and turn done...:D
 

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Damn Kurt, I should have been talking to you years ago on the stuff I wanted to have done... My dumb ass kept calling another couple other places and it seemed they just wanted to get in my pants (to get my wallet)...

Oh ya, and I forgot my disclaimer back up there that I don't profess to know which is exactly the best to run because I haven't done my yet, just going from a few that I have seen and what I have read. And I agree on the hy-steer. Not only does it get it all up and away, but much beefier than stock in most cases--but if you got a double-arm for free, you could run it 'til you get the hy-steer... Mainly, I just wanted to get the point accross for them to do some research and readin' on it (if they hadn't yet)before just goin' for it--that is unless they just take it to some of he super well known shops that produce bad-ass rigs....

Kurt, give me a couple months and mine'll be sittin' on your doorstep...
 

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ninetimesnine said:
...but if you got a double-arm for free, you could run it 'til you get the hy-steer...
Well free is free... I would even say go for it if it is cheap. I just think that buying a new one is a waste... :D

Originally posted by ninetimesnine Kurt, give me a couple months and mine'll be sittin' on your doorstep...
Dude, I will be waiting... :D
 

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ninetimesnine said:
...Oh ya, and I forgot my disclaimer back up there that I don't profess to know which is exactly the best to run because I haven't done my yet, just going from a few that I have seen and what I have read. ...
Well its awesome that you are doing alot of research into this stuff.. feel free to call or email if you have any other questions or want to check out some sprung over FJ60's...:D
 

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Here are picts of my HJ60 before and after the SOA.
http://www.collegeinternetsolutions.com/cisautoweb/dtlc/hj60picts.html

I used stock springs that were in decent shape before but quickly killed them SOA. I think because the u bolts naturally pull against the direction the springs were originally meant to be in, I ended up going through two sets that were decent on FJ60s beforehand. The solution was to take out a leaf or two and add a long, skinny and somewhat soft add a leaf. The one I used in the rear looked a lot like the MAF add-a-leaf and I had a local spring shop put them in up front. That kept me a just around 5-6" of lift (I wanted the minimum SOA height as a DD), and I found that once I got the shock setup right and everything in spec that it handled better than SUA. It even cornered better but I was using whooped shocks before and new RS9000s after.

I hope it helps. I ended up doing my front axle quicker than my rear (but I sand blasted and painted the rear, and started having to move a lot quicker to get the front ready for CM. In the end because I first decided to take out the rear add-a-leaf, I started sagging quite a bit and ended up barely wheeling it at CM because I was worried about axle wrap. But I did take it through some of the earlier obstacles at Pritchett without a locker :rolleyes: Once I finally got it right though she became a good beastly machine and never had driveshaft issues and my front articulation far exceeded my rear.

For front driveshaft, I found the perfect solution was to use a combination early and late FJ60 driveline. Because my truck was a '87, (and 60 series trannies were lengthened about 4" in '85) the t case etc was farther back than earlier models, and they switched the front drive shaft from a shorter one with a CV in it to a longer one with a U joint in the front and rear to accomidate for the added length (that's awkwardly worded). The early driveshaft CV mated to the later driveshaft perfectly accomidated for the lift, so I had a local driveline shop weld it in and balance it. Coincidenally it is also the same CV joint found in mini trucks. I also did not cut and turn as I was considering selling the truck and wanted to leave it so that it could be returned to SUA if someone wanted such. I put the CV on the t case end and it perfectly went over the t case crossmember which I would have had to cut or notch if I hadn't used the CV. For the rear, you won't need a new rear driveshaft, just rotate the axle housing towards the t case as should be done, and the old shaft will work on newer and older 60s. If you have an older 60 (85 and earlier) you will probably have to cut and turn but if you run stock springs you wont have to either, there are a couple LCML listers who run their earlier FJ60s not cut and turn also. But I would still recommend the cut and turn. And once you go SUA, you'll never want to go back. I was worried that it might be too much lift for me but grew to love it, even if I had a little trouble getting into it at 6'5. Imagine my girlfriend at 5'5! :D

For shocks, I cut out a section of the inner front fenders and moved the mounts into the engine compartment. For the rears, I put bolts the same size as the OEM mounts welded to the same cross member but moved inwards so they were about 6" apart or so. I never found a very good setup for good rear articulation. I built custom mounts for the rear axle that took the shocks off the middle of the axle, heightwise but moved as wide as possibly until the shock ran into the exhaust.
 

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66 Buick Riviera GS, 78 FJ40, 82 FJ60, 87 Samurai, 00 Tundra, 07 Tundra CM 4x4, ‘21 Rivian R1T soon!
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I have had a SO 60 for about 4 years now. It's really kick ass. Spend the time and money to do it right and you'll be happy.

I did a wirite up not of how to do, though i do go into it, but more of what has worked and what hasn't for me and others.

When i did mine, hysteer wasa rumor - it didn't exist. I made my own sterring arm.

Anyway, enough blathering, check it out:

http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/soa60.html

Leave the chatter here on the board, as opposed to PM'ing me with questions. Much of what i said in that post has been talked about before, but it's worth going over again for those who are new to the 60.

FWIW, i drive mine ever day, have driven it from VA to MS and back; and have never had a suspension issue.

*VERY IMPORTANT*
I will say that i don't think i addressed the tire issue in my earlier post, but if you're running a SO, make sure you're tires are load rated D or better. I went from 35" Generals to 36" nSuper Swampers, and my ride imporved ten-fold. The sidewalls on the Generals just couldn't handle the wieght.

C rated tires do not cut it. Even with sway bars and RS 9000's turned up.

My $.02.

Rob
 
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