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I was going to post in the general metal fab but figured that a lot of you have some pretty cool wiring ideas. So lets post them here. Fuse panels, ECU mounts, harnesses, looms, audio, etc.

My contribution is pretty simple. For those of you who's eye sight may be failing. Take pdf versions of your wiring diagram to your local Mechanical contractor (or anyone with CAD and plotting capabilities ) and ask them if they could plot to a full size drawing. This made it much easier when I was modifying my LS harness. I could actuall lay the harness on the drawing and everything was easy to read and trace out.
 

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I actually enjoyed all 7 days of wiring my buggy. I will post a few pics of some tricks when I get home tonight. Great topic!!

Rob

Edit.......let me add this

When I first wired everything up, I ran ALL of my wires in split loom tubing. Thats great at first, but as mud, oil, etc gets in there it makes it a PIA to troubleshoot and work on. When I went to Mexico in 2008, I saw a lot of desert cars that had the wiring zip tied ONLY. This a much better method than the loom in my opionon.

Also...NO BLACK TAPE!!!
 

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When I first wired everything up, I ran ALL of my wires in split loom tubing. Thats great at first, but as mud, oil, etc gets in there it makes it a PIA to troubleshoot and work on. When I went to Mexico in 2008, I saw a lot of desert cars that had the wiring zip tied ONLY. This a much better method than the loom in my opionon.
I used split loom at first,too and have encountered the same problems you have.
Having the wire out in the open not only makes it easier to trouble shoot, but helps to cool the wire. I put this information together when an electrician told me it's not a good idea to put Romex in conduit because of heat build up.

I use nickle plated steel heat resistant connectors using a good crimper with no solder. Adhesive lined shrink tubing is then used.
 

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thhhpptthh!
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get the terminal ends that have the solder and paste already in them. they kick ass.

trick i learned from a buddy of mine to terminate a wire with no end: cut a 1" piece of heat shrink and put it 1/2 on the wire. then shrink it. fold the 1/2 with no wire in it back over onto the side of the wire and slip another 1/2" piece of shrink over it. shrink.. this seals the end off and holds it securely so it the shrink doesnt slip of.

power distrubution blocks kick ass.
 

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trick i learned from a buddy of mine to terminate a wire with no end: cut a 1" piece of heat shrink and put it 1/2 on the wire. then shrink it. fold the 1/2 with no wire in it back over onto the side of the wire and slip another 1/2" piece of shrink over it. shrink.. this seals the end off and holds it securely so it the shrink doesnt slip of.
.]


Yup, been doing that for years.


How about a simple not many people think of? I run everything I can on relays, fans/lights/etc. and use the GROUND wire on the toggle switch in cab, to switch the power wire under hood.
This allows you to pick up a ground at the switch panel mount and cut down on wiring clutter.
 

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get the terminal ends that have the solder and paste already in them. they kick ass.

trick i learned from a buddy of mine to terminate a wire with no end: cut a 1" piece of heat shrink and put it 1/2 on the wire. then shrink it. fold the 1/2 with no wire in it back over onto the side of the wire and slip another 1/2" piece of shrink over it. shrink.. this seals the end off and holds it securely so it the shrink doesnt slip of.

power distrubution blocks kick ass.
I used a double sided one to run all my grounds and hots to under the dash. I also used a 12vguy panel and EVERYTHING is ran through circuit breakers and relay's. Under my dash is a 10 relay panel I built from aluminum that holds everything.

Yup, been doing that for years.


How about a simple not many people think of? I run everything I can on relays, fans/lights/etc. and use the GROUND wire on the toggle switch in cab, to switch the power wire under hood.
This allows you to pick up a ground at the switch panel mount and cut down on wiring clutter.
This is also good since if something shorts out, it turns the accesory on instead of "letting the smoke" out of the wires.

When you're wiring up from scratch don't go all happy on zip ties cause you'll always forget something and have to add another. use some velcro loops to get placements close then once it runs, works, etc lock it down with ties.


http://www.firefold.com/9-Inch-Velcro-Strap-12-Inch-Width-Black-50-Pack-P1170.aspx
http://www.firefold.com/6-Inch-Velcro-Strap-12-Inch-Width-Black-50-Pack-P1022.aspx

Damn, never thought of that!!! I have wasted COUNTLESS zip ties doing just that!!

I also went to Fastenal and bought the butt connectors that crimp, solder, and heat shrink all in one. They are like .85 each, but well worth it.

If you use crimpers...SPEND THE $$ AND GET A GOOD SET!!!!!


Keep'em coming!!!:smokin:

Rob
 

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I have learned that some shrink tubing with the adhesive takes a lot more heat to shrink. I don't know what is "Better" but I prefer the soft/pliable ones that shrink with less heat. I have melted wires trying to shrink the heat shrink with the adhesive in it.
I try to run WITHOUT relays. I have heard from some buggy/truck builders that they can fail from the vibration. I just run 50 amp toggles with heavy gauge wire. Way simpler than relays. Also no fuses just manual resettable breakers.
 

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best stuff ever invented. don't buy the shit brands though.
I also went to Fastenal and bought the butt connectors that crimp, solder, and heat shrink all in one. They are like .85 each, but well worth it.

If you use crimpers...SPEND THE $$ AND GET A GOOD SET!!!!!


Keep'em coming!!!:smokin:

Rob
What are the good brands??
 

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thhhpptthh!
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What are the good brands??
i LOVE my channel lock crimpers.

fawk stripper/crimper combos where the crimp is on the inside of the hinge
 

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I bought a set like this, crimps anything short of battery cables.
Perfect crimp, every time. Mine where from MAC, but tons of guys make them. While you're at it, get good strippers, I despise those automatic ones, they brake, or stretch the insulation.

 

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I bought mine from Fastenal. They were like $25 or so.



Stay away from the bullshit Vatozone type.

I didnt see the connectors that have the solder and heatshrink on the site.

Also, at work last week, we had a vendor come by and show us some that seals it when you crimp it. It was pretty cool, but I havent used them so they may not be worth a shit.


Rob
 

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A trick that I did to cut down on wire clutter was using 7 wire trailer wiring. I bought it in bulk and ran it from my dash to the rear of my buggy. This gave me a very well insulated, abuse resistant solution to run my rear brake, backup, rock lights, fuel pump, tranny fan, and 12V aux., with a wire to spare. Its clean simple and allows you to diagnose well with the color designation.

Also I never use insulated connectors. Everything is non insulated with adhesive heat shrink since it is very clean and simple and cuts down on a mess of connectors while keeping crap of bare wire.
Oh and relays and fuses for nearly all primary circuits as well as a main 150 amp circuit breaker after the main power kill switch. I use sealed switches, so I can spray out the interior.





 

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Nice work snowdemon
Thanks. I used to hate wiring jobs. That was mostly because of the reason that I didn't understand the principles very well of electrical systems. After getting my bachelors degree in auto mechanics and having a professor that is a guru in electrical systems, it is now in all honestly one of my favorite things to do. Its like good fab work in that when you take your time your efforts really show when you're done. Just don't feel rushed when you do wiring and make sure you get good diagrams if you working on OEM wiring.
 

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I have learned that some shrink tubing with the adhesive takes a lot more heat to shrink. I don't know what is "Better" but I prefer the soft/pliable ones that shrink with less heat. I have melted wires trying to shrink the heat shrink with the adhesive in it.
I try to run WITHOUT relays. I have heard from some buggy/truck builders that they can fail from the vibration. I just run 50 amp toggles with heavy gauge wire. Way simpler than relays. Also no fuses just manual resettable breakers.
I was going to go this route, but I was worried about bringing in heavy amps into the cockpit, and not keeping them outside the firewall.
 
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