[Jason M]

I assume that you are SU?
Items like the AP Hy steer really would not benefit you at all. In fact, I am not sure they could actually be used.

Why not shorten your existing draglink and have it retapped for the GM TRE that your box accepts? Total cost of about $40

 

[Jason M]

That changes things a bit.
Re ream the steering arm for the FJ80 TRE and create a link the length you need.
Just about every type of DL has been created at one time or another on this board.

Who did your coil suspension?
They probably have the taps necessary..

If you are that modified I see no reason to do one metric and one GM tre..
Make it consistant.

Pics!!

 

[Jason M]

Quote: AMEN!! The less different parts you have to worry about the better off you will be.

I'd like to use fj80 tre's on both ends but the pitman arm hole is larger than the fj80. Know anybody that can modify this one?

Quote: The car ones are itty bitty and it's a pain in the butt to find the ones that are meant to flex

I didnt know anything about that. One more reason to go fj80.

Quote: I think with the coil spring front, high steer is a must have. As well as some diff protection.

Not sure If I have enough link to frame clearance to use highsteer. What's a good rule of thumb?

Lastly anybody have the part # for the 80 tre's? So I dont have to buy something else from allpro? Napa would be cool.

Thanks, Shaun

Just about any machine shop can weld and reream the pittman to work with the 80 series TRE.
I am sure that OTT can make flat arms. Give them a call and see what they have to say. Plus if you shipped them your pittman they could probably ream it out for you. Just an idea.
How much room do you have between the top of the knuckle and your frame?
Call Napa and find out

92 FJ80


If it is a cruiser front axle get a 10" pipe cap for diff protection.