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Pretty basic Golden Eagle

21144 Views 86 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  Tacedaddy

saw this sitting in a farmers field near my house. A fairly molested 78 Golden eagle 304 3 speed d20 with a broken output shaft "non running" for 300 bucks. Drug it home and got it going in about 10 minutes :rolleyes:

IT was full of 1980's goodies dual shocks, dual steering stabilizers, lots of rust in the body but someone had already repaired and coated the frame

I yanked the tub off and tore my 2wd T18 i stole from another farmer down the road and bolted a novak adapter up

my other buddy pulled his YJ tub off his junk so i got it for free, had a friend swing by and we started adding some patch panels

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Called up Ballistic and Ruffstuff and grabbed some brackets and misc stuff
made a plate on the output of the T-case and ran my crossmember over the top, probably gonna run a 1" body lift
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NOS 74 K20 axle i had to drive 200 miles in the comanche to get but whatever

also scrapped an explorer, so i kept the ford 8.8. I'm going with Yukons C'clip eliminator kit like im running in my XJ, planning 2.5" of lift and 37's with 3" stretch. Keeping it Leaf sprung (its a CJ and i could do another 3-link but that seems like cheating)
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Speaking of Springs these showed up like the first week of may

so last week i narrowed the front axle to early waggy width (ordered a chromo long side shaft) and threw it under the CJ with explorer rear springs SOA, IT sits PERFECT!!

threw spacers on the rear to get my width close on the axles and so i can put wheels on it, Also bolted up my headers and started routing my exhaust. the only thing that hangs down in the middle of my CJ is the drain plug on the T18
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threw this in
to mock it up.... grr I really want to stretch the rear but with these 3" superlift springs its sitting level with the front, we shall see.

You guys think this dinky 304 with edlebrock intake mild cam and headers are gonna break these 1310 joints locked on 37's :shaking:

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Should be fine, just carry a few 1310 spares with you where ever you go. I had my Comanche SOA front/rear, dirty 30 and a 8.8 on 37's and I spanked the shit out if it without any hiccups.
Curious if 304 with edlebrock gonna be good with 37's. Way to go man.
My cj had a 304, Edelbrock cam and efi. It made 200hp at the rear tire (37's). It ran hard. A 4v carb should make similar power.
Its got an edelbrock 4 barrel on it right now, but im looking at the FI tech 400HP TBI setup, I just got done setting on up in a buddies K20 and it was easy. Hopefully the fuel curve can accommodate the little 200hp 5.0
BTW UPS just notified me my Bilsteins have arrived :p
too bad my welder is here at my shop im doing more work on my friends 03 F150 that I SAS'd
SLow updates but i've been doing stuff i promise

stripped and welded up all the holes in the Dash and sprayed it Desert Tan
got my lockers in and the front end together and bought a 1980 ScoutII box. I have big plans

Sprayed some cheap 17" Jegs 8's IM going to weld on some DIY beadlocks but i had to get this thing rolling
Drug the Chassis up next to my tub and got the high steer arms on and measured for my tube and got my shocks tacked in place. I've gotta pull the fan and make my hoop from one side ot the other but this is helping me get my steering figured out

Im running a 78 Scout II box with a WJ pitman arm and yeh I plated and sleeved the frame. THink im gonna have to run a waggy arm for clearance or bumpstop the hell out of it
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Got the steering done,

and the front driveshaft made

and ordered my rear CV shaft today
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Hunting season took up alot of my time this year, Painted and sold the comanche and bought a cheap super dirty to pull my XJ around

I got my Adams Driveshaft in and mounted my new CJ7 tank 180* out. Idk i've never like the fuel fill on the back and im not gonna comp cut it so it should be fine to run a TJ filler neck
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Also you will notice i got my exhaust done and fuel system done-ish

Undercoated this POS tub im gonna run

its like 90% patch panels

and threw it all together with a daystar 1" body lift
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Last weekend I got my Brake system 75% done, Running a 99 GMC savannah 3500 hydroboost and a 1972 P20 master, willwood adjustable prop valve.

because i ran the 1980 scoutII box i just bought the OEM 99 GMC lines and Powersteering pump and didnt have to adapt anything :flipoff2:

the last of my junk from speedway motors is on order to get my clutch line buttoned up and my 30" AN lines for the front brakes
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my other buddy hit a pretty large tree with his 94XJ so i commandeered his steering column, i had to modify the brake pedal but as of 20 minutes ago i can steer my CJ7 again.... first time in 2 years

oh yeh and a 1994 XJ steering shaft worked great, just had to collapse it like 3"
splined right up with the 1980 ScoutII box
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SO i spent alot of time on this small piece of the puzzle but the dash vin stickers on these stupid CJ's from the mid 70's are crappy so i made new ones from scratch

And i love how fast speedway motors shipping is, my kevlar brake lines are here
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finally at the stage to get it running, pulled the grill back off and notched the PS pump bracket to match my 99 GM pump, pulled the fann and the belts

Oh and the reason im pulling everything is that the wife got me the 150-400hp FI-tech and a summit HEI dist for my birthday.... she's a keeper
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Im running a 78 Scout II box with a WJ pitman arm and yeh I plated and sleeved the frame. THink im gonna have to run a waggy arm for clearance or bumpstop the hell out of it
Probably WAY late to the party on this, but if you are still trying to work clearance issues with the pitman arm you may want to check out the pitman arm from a 90-2000's GMC/Chevy Express Van. These are actually raised instead of flat or dropped and fit a normal Saginaw box like a TJ/YJ, so they are likely to fit your box if a Waggy fits. Length-wise they are the same as a TJ ( ~ 5.5" C-C). You can get them from regular parts store for ~ $40.

Here's the link to the one I am using in my build:
MasterPro Chassis K6653 - Pitman Arm | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Length is gonna be the thing. With my highsteer arms the WJ arm is already a little short but at full compression turned left my steering will contact the pitman arm. An Inch longer arm would probably do it but im still gonna have to bump stop like crazy.

looking like ill have 4" of uptravel and my driveshaft binding will limit my droop
anyone have any luck running the tom woods offset U-joints?

the image is decieving I have over an 1" clearance between the U-bolt plate and steering rod even lock to lock
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