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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Tons of Progress pics. 56k warning!

Its comming along pretty good. some ups some downs. see pics. tell me what you think.




This will be a daily driver/racecar trailer tower/trail rig. It flexes, ok I guess. I think it could use some more but it does allright. I may remove a leaf from each corner later but its pretty stiff for 5500 lbs worth of car and trailer.


I fabbed up this shock hoop set up. seems to work pretty good and clears everything.


Steering box is out of an XJ (cherokee) jeep. I used this, the original XJ steering shaft and a 28" flaming river tilt column. fits great.


The xmember is fairly light weight but amazingly stout. Its not real pretty I suppose.


Hooked to the SBC is the heavily built 700r4 and np208. I used the 208 because I had the adapter and the tcase. I plan on going to a D300 using an AA adapter at a later date, probably when the 208 grenades.


I'd mentioned earlier that I put a 31 gal blazer tank into it. several asked how I did it. It involves cutting out an xmember and moving it to the rear of the truck. heres a pic with it in the truck. A box will be built over it to hide it and it will be level with the wheel wells. it will rob some cargo space but I have a 500 mile radius now.
 

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Discussion Starter #2

The computer that hides behind my dash:


The computer runs the sleeping beast:



Specs:
.030 over 350 vortec block
3.75 scat crank (383 inches)
powdered metal lt1 rods
KB flat toppers (about 10.0:1 with 64 cc chambers)
World products S/R torquers, 2.02/1.60's with 64 cc chambers
GM performance hyd. roller cam-- .488/.509 214*/222* on a 114 (should make for a torque monster)
Brand new never bolted on an engine 86 tuned port injection bought direct from gm performance in 86. its a 350 vette unit. The computer and harness is all aftermarket with custom chip etc.
Shorty headers.
My guess? About 350 hp and close to 450 lb-ft. Should spin up to 6000 with no trouble.

The 700r4 has everything you can think of to beef it done. All the trick machine work is done to the innards for inhanced flow etc. corvette servo and a 40% stronger overdrive unit to allow full throttle shifts and towing in OD.

Scout II dana 44's with 4.88's and lockers.

One oops that I need to fix so far: I put the rear shocks as far out as I could for stability but it bit me. when flexed the tires will touch the shocks. I plan on remedying this witha wider offset on the rims by about an inch, also the current rubber is 35x13.50. the next set will be 35x12.50 unless the new offset fixes the problem. see pics.

ooops: Its not real tight against it but I want atleat an inch when flexed



I did the rear shocks with an added 1/4 thick "L" bracket and went through the body tup into it.


Questions? comments? Ive still got stuff to clean up. And no its not a driver only. It will see plenty of trail time. when I get it on the road its first trail trip will be Dusy ershim

However it will see some show n shine time too. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If anyone cares, I'm 23 and I did all the fab my self. I worked hard for it and paid for it all myself while going to school. I graduate with my bachelors in criminal justice in another quarter.

No good pics of the race car but heres the motor and the ass end:




With slicks it runs 10.6x at 127 on motor. No nitrous as of yet and im happy not having it. I can run the 10.60 index out here all season long.

427BBC comes in just shy of 600 hp.
 

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Cool, but why does the trans crossmember hang down so low? It looks like you could gain a bunch of clearance if you ditched that piece of rect. tubing between the tranny mount and the crossmember. The rear upper shock mount seems a little weak too. Other than that, it looks really good, sweet engine. Clean body and nice paint, we don't see that too often around here. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
We'll see on the upper shock towers. I designed it and had a roundy-round chassis builder buddy of mine check it out and it passed his tech so I hope for the best. I have to have the xmember low with the rect. tube or the front CV joint comes out dead center on the xmember.
 

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Buckshot,

THAT IS A SWEET RIG. Looks like it will be quite the ride. I remember building race cars when i was 21 or so. Was alot of fun. I am building my 69 Charger S.E. as it was my first car i bought. Its got a wacked up motor with ported 906 heads, enlarged oil passages, and the works. I build the motor when i was 20 or so. I now need to finish the Car and install the drivetrain.

Fleckster
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks man. appreciate the replies.
 

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Is that a factory shade of yellow? :flipoff2:

Looks like more of a racer than a wheeler. Nice job.

I do have to add a comment on the crossmember, I can see that flat stock flexing and bending on some good bounces. I understand you need to have some clearance for the front cv, and some clearance underneath, but flatstock just seems a bit weak. It looks like it is already flexing a bit.
 

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It looks too nice! :D

On the X-member.. how about a hooped X-member?

Flat under the trans, then hoop it up and over the front output. You could even mount it to the top of the frame.

---

Funny.. I was 22-23 when I built my race Scout from the ground up.. :D

Now I'm old, married, and busy with too many other things. :D

28 tomorrow. ;)
 

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everything looks pretty badass...especially that motor.

but that motor, buggy leaf in the back, no wrap bar....bad news. Even with a wrap bar in the back i still wouldn't run that buggy leaf.
 

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Your not gonna wheel that are you? Thats way too pretty to wheel. Now if that was rental, I'd beat the hell out of it. :D
 

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After examining the pictures closely, I have come to the conclusion that due to the lack of rust there is no way this is an International. :p


























Looks sweet though. :D
 

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something else to consider as well, I can't see if there is a rubber or urethane isolator on the tranny mount. without one, when the engine torques on the mounts, it is likely to play hell with the case adapter or the tranny's output housing.
 

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Buckshot, nice, real nice. Cool running gear. I'm building a 67 800 at this time. What shocks are you using? What wheelbase? What castor? Good job!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
1. I have had my fears about the buggy leaf also with that kind of oomph under the hood. I do have traction bars for it just havent put them on yet. the brackets are already on the rearend, Just need to tie them into the frame. If its too squirrely with the buggy leaf I'll probably pull them off. I originally had a 196/t19/d20 in it and it was all brand new and rebuilt but I sold it for more than I had in it and decided to get crazy, lol.

2. It has very little rust supriseingly. there is a little on the under side of the tub but Ive removed/stopped most of it and coated it. I have to keep my eye on it.

3. I do agree with you on the Xmember and wanted some opinions on it. I think I'll go ahead and weld a rib around it to help strengthen it. There should be zero forward and back movment, It should all be side to side. (on a side note, thanks for the tip on the urethane t-case mount. Im used to motor plates and solid tranny mounts in my nova. I didnt even think about it in the 4x4 and all that driveline flex. I'll have to re-engineer it a little.)

Shocks are P/N 5012. RS 5000's. They're for either a super duty ford or a big 1 ton dodge with 6" lift. They're some stiff mothers. 33" extended 19" compressed.

Thanks for all the kind words. Makes one feel good to see that people appreciate the blood, sweat, and beers you put into something like this.

P.S. Since its close to school bus yellow, my buddies have gone to calling it the short bus hahhah
 

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Nice Job! Like Ben said, I would be leary of that rear shock mounting position. Other than that, it is really good looking. Keep us informed on your progress. :beer:
 

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Your front shock hoops look bomber, but I think the rear will tear up some sheetmetal since there's nothing to keep the bolts from wobbling out. I would definately move them.

Nice Scout! :smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Theres 1/4" plate behind the sheet metal on the rear shocks. They're "L" brackets that are boltded through the frame. It feels solid as a rock. I hope it doesnt tear anything up
 
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