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Discussion Starter #1


3.5" lift
35" MTRs
Hy-steer
Front axle moved 3" forward
Chevys with 2" blocks
44044s with 2 leaves removed

Still have a lot to do:

Front ubolt flip
Longer front brake lines
Marlin
Bumpers

I have some problems to work out, the front wheels rub on the springs on a sharp turn(spacers and stops), but they clear the fender. The rear tire rubs the frame on full stuff(spacers again). The tie rod hits the pitman arm on full stuff. I put the IFS box as far forward as I could without cutting, it needs another 2" to clear. That is really the only hard fix, the rest will be cake.

It's coming together, slowly but surely <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Does yer dewg bite?
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44044s with 2 leaves removed
<IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">
 

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Can I get a closer look at the rear Chevy set up? I'm doing that swap myself and want to get more ideas. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #5



No pics of the front mount, I used a plumb bob to center them. It's right around 11.5" forward. They're made from 3.5 X 3.5 X 1/4" tube 9" long cut to form a "ramp".

The rear upper shackles are 3" longer than stock.

I had to take 2 leaves out to level it. And if they sag too much I can always throw another leaf in.
 

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Wicked Raciest !
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Originally posted by Yarddog:
<STRONG>


<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Nice flex!!! What is wrong with this picture!!! Replace that lug nut, they put six on there for a reason. Had a buddy running around with 5 lugs for about 2 years, one day he hung a corner and broke 4 more, scared the poop (shit) out of him and it sure tore up his fender.
<IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Originally posted by the General:
<STRONG>That frontend looks like something is BROKEN!! I like it <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
LOL! It does!

It's solid though. It looks that way because the shocks lean back a little. I made new front hangers out of 1/4" plate so I could put the end of spring with 2 claps forward, that and redrilling the perches 1 3/4" got me 3" forward. Now I don't have to tub the fire wall 'till I go to 38's <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Originally posted by OOPS:


[/qb]
Nice flex!!! What is wrong with this picture!!! Replace that lug nut, they put six on there for a reason. Had a buddy running around with 5 lugs for about 2 years, one day he hung a corner and broke 4 more, scared the poop (shit) out of him and it sure tore up his fender.
<IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">[/QB][/QUOTE]

I know <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> I still have a few thing to finish up, that being one them.

It's all in the details!! <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Originally posted by Just make it stop Skyetone:
<STRONG>cant tell but are the 44044's in stock perches? If so how was pinion angle?</STRONG>
They are, and it did change, down to about 2-3 degress above horizontal. Just above level.

Will this cause porblems?

I would like to avoid making new perches and rotating the knuckles. Can I expect vibes or ujoint binding? This is all one big experiment for me.

Any advice is welcome

[ 10-25-2001: Message edited by: Yarddog ]
 

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I run stock waggs and many here run the 44044's most also run about 2-2.5 inch drop perch to get your caster right so durring stopping your axle doesn't want to roll itself under your truck. Also yea you want as little pinion angle as possible. You will pull driveshafts too.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Originally posted by Just make it stop Skyetone:
<STRONG>I run stock waggs and many here run the 44044's most also run about 2-2.5 inch drop perch to get your caster right so durring stopping your axle doesn't want to roll itself under your truck. Also yea you want as little pinion angle as possible. You will pull driveshafts too.</STRONG>

By "perches" do you mean the front hangers? or the axle perches? I built new hanger that drop the spring about 1/2".

So should the pinion be pointed more toward the tcase? Like I said it is pointed up a little, not nearly where I want it.

I guess I need more explaination of caster. Are caster and pinion angle the same?

I really don't see any danger of the axle rolling under the truck.

I guess I don't get it....

[ 10-25-2001: Message edited by: Yarddog ]
 

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caster is the angle your knuckles sit at.. You usually want it about 7 degrees of negative caster(knuckle angled upward). But since a toy housing is hard to cut/turn, you kinda have to get an even keel of pinion angle and caster....

Sky, i prefer my spring setups to be canted, very little drop in the hanger and a long shackle, so when you roll into a steep angle, instead of the tire wanting to push back and stress the springs ect, it can roll back a bit...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
6" CE to CE, overall length is around 8.5"


The frame bushing is 3/4".

[ 10-26-2001: Message edited by: Yarddog ]
 

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one way to get better angles up front is to put a crawler in there, getting ya 6.5 inches of longer front dshaft....iff'n ya dont have one already. looks good.......brad
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Brad, I bought those springs and blocks from you <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> and I'm lovin 'em.

And the crawlers in the garage, shafts coming soon.
 
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