Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
First off...I've read and skimmed through what I could on here an other sources for building this rig the way I intend on using it. I'm slacking in a few departments so here I am Arms open and ears listening.. I'm going to throw some numbers around and intentions so u get a general overview of what I'm building and any suggested advise is much appreciated.

Ok, so I have a stock frame 86 k10 currently I'm running one ton gear under. Corp 14 rear Dana 60 front.. all gm. I'm utilizing a doubler to transfer the load (203/205) an have a 468 BBC efi pushing it.. here's where I'm at.. I want to build a road worthy (max55mph) offroad recovery rig.. I'm stock on using a double triangulated 4 link with a 3 link rear. I plan on getting out to about a 127" wheel base.. don't ask me how I got that number other than what we thought looked good after a few rounds with the tape and rock rods tips to wheelbase min. For a 44" tire. So.. I have some good info as far as link separation and length an angles... but how about the coilovers.. I have 2 14"+ 2 16" SAW 2.0 remote resis... dual rates.. can anyone provide good feedback on to where an how to mount these to get the most performance out of my shocks.. axle truss an links have not been made yet so any input before we go cutting would be greatly appreciated. .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,103 Posts
What recovery action are you anticipating? Like a bouncer tow truck? Or just something capable of getting high enough up the trails/bounty hills to be a tie off point? Why a 3 link rear? Why double triangulated front? What performance, exactly, are you wanting; speed dampening, articulation, stability, load carrying capability? How heavy are you estimating? What stance are you wanting; belly height, wheel travel clearance?

Your description doesn't paint a very good picture yet...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Yea I figured I hadn't given enough info yet.. when I get home I'll spit some numbers at u guys.. left my cheat sheet at home.

But here's some info I do have: I plan on driving my square on the road an back an forth to local events.. I want recovery in mind.. yes I will be crawling but not probally on bounty hills.. I've chosenever a 4 link front because of the articulation (I still want to play in this thing) an a 3 link rear because it's already there.. I can post pics too.later.. performance is gonna be under 650hp.. more around 550 .. just depends on what I can get for a good deal.. this project is li.item to a budget.. so money in mind use what I have an go from there.. currently have 7/8 chromoly heims and plan on using dom for links.. this thing is gonna be heavy.. full size 86 k10 fram/no bed, exo, bbc, doubler, an tons on 44s... looking at some weight.. also have the saws purchased with some heavy spring ..off the top.my head I'm thinking 700 lbs total curb weight?? I'll get my numbers when I get home like I said but this is what I have to staRte from.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
775 Posts
You are likely going to need more shock and bigger heims. The 7/8" may work for you, but I would suggest 1.25" on the lowers atleast. Also going to want some 2.5" coilovers vs the 2", you are likely pushing the limits of the 2" weight capacity.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
7/8" are pushing it even on some Jeeps, I'd go to 1.25" either heims or jj's. 2.5" shocks would be better so you don't blow them out, i've seen it happen on full size rigs. Also you might want to run air bumps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,071 Posts
7/8 are too small for 44's on a 6k rig imo. Uppers AND lowers should be 1 1/4 heims. 2x.25 wall dom at the smallest for links. 2.5 shocks AND air bumps for what you're looking to do. Shock mounting is going to be the least of your worries at this point. A 3 link front will articulate just fine if you build it smart. My rig cycles 19" articulated travel with 12" shocks limited to 11" with a three link in the front. My shocks are mounted at about 80° give or take a degree. Read some suspension articles AND or books before you set out to do the front. Remember to check your link clearances at full articulation AND full lock. I also think the stock frame is a terrible starting point. Full custom frame would be the strongest option, plus you'll be able to build your frame to the suspension, not building the suspension to your frame.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top