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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Edit June, 2019 - fixed all image links.

I figure that it's time to share my build and what I've learned as well as get some help finishing up. I bought this 2005 Unlimited Rubicon in February, drove it home and started tearing it down. It's a 6 speed.

Here's the plan for phase 1:
HP44 from 79' F250, RCV's, 4.88 gears, OX locker, Yukon Hardcore hubs
Matching full float 60, spindles bored to fit 35 spline chromolly shafts, drums, 4.88 and OX
37 inch Krawlers on H2's
PRP daily driver suspension seats
Crossover steering
Rokmen control arms on stock suspension geometry except for about a 1 inch stretch in the front and rear
OME 2 inch coils and shocks
Highline fenders
PSC pump, box and reservoir?

Phase 2 will have things like a flat belly skid, cage, etc. but I'll worry about that later. My time to work on the Jeep is limited to a couple hours after work and maybe one day every weekend. The goal is to finish Phase 1 by the third week in June.

This will be my first real fab project. It will be done in my small two car garage, and I'll build as much as I can with the plasma and welder. It doesn't matter much to me that it's pretty as long as it is functional. I like to drive the jeep to the trails and back, so it needs to also work well on the highway.

I'm shooting for 18" from ground to frame. It's looking like it may be a bit higher than that unless I shorten the coils. 3-4 inches of up travel would be okay. I'd like to keep the cg low and have few reservations about cutting the Jeep up to make it happen.
 

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:beer:

Good choice in vehicles. (see sig)
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Because the 60 was out of a 79' F250, the spindles would not be big enough for 35 spline shafts. My plan was to bore them out using the hole saw technique. It almost worked...

Parts




The first side went pretty well. It took about five, 20 minute sessions to get all the way through. In the picture below you can see the light-colored ring. That is how much the hole saw takes out.




The biggest issue I had was the bit would catch and all the torque went to the drill and my wrists... It was strong enough to bend the arbor and snap my crappy Harbor Freight drill in half.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
I got another drill and kept at the other side. I didn't get that side perfectly straight and wasn't able to rectify the problem. The only reason I did the hole saw method to begin with was that I called 30 machine shops here in Denver and couldn't find anyone who would/could bore the spindles.

After the second drill took a dump and I couldn't get the hole straight, I went back to the phone book and after calling 20 more places I found a shop who would bore them. The whole thing was a major pain in the ass, but the axle was dirt cheap so oh well. It came out good and will work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Then I moved on to remove the fenders prior to pulling the front axle. But before then i had to get a couple shots for motivation.





Pulled the fenders



Looks like there is going to be a problem with the AC line on the passenger side. For people running highlines with AC, how did you handle the line running from the grill to the evap canister? It looks lower than the inner fender will be.

 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Truss

The truss is made of 3/8. For now it will be welded to the passenger side tube and bolted to the leaf spring perch on the driver's side. Once everything is finished the plan is also to weld the truss to the spring bracket for extra strength. I figured this will also help prevent putting all the stress onto the tubes, lessening the potential for spinning the housing. I may also tie into the top three bolts of the diff cover but I can add that later.

Truss pieces cut out



It's just me in the shop, so I used some Duck tape to hold the shape while I tacked everything. The tacks on the cast spring perch are just an extra set of hands. I don't plan on welding to the cast.









Here you can see the two 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts that secure the driver's side truss to the spring perch. You can also see how the spring bracket touches the truss and the two can be welded together.

 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Front back under the Jeep

I lucked out and my jackstand/roller platform just happens to put the axle at the height it will be with the tires on. The Jeep is at the right height so I can build the steering at pretty close to full bump.

Driver's side brackets are in the correct place, but the truss will hit the track bar bracket. This is due to the fact that I want the lower control arms flush with the bottom of the axle tube, not hanging below it. This requires moving the axle forward about 1 to 1.5 inches. I'd prefer not to move the track bar bracket, so I cut a section out of the truss to make room. Even with that, I'm not sure the track bar itself will fit. Any suggestions?



Truss notched



I also found that my measurement was not correct for the location of the passenger spring bracket, so everything got measured and marked again.




Track width when complete



Locations marked again in correct place



Some people cut off a large section of cast on the driver's side, but I wanted to keep as much of it as possible for strength. A section needed to be cut off though to make room for the inner, lower link tab which will be made of 3/8 since I won't be able to weld both sides of the tab.

Cast cut away - major pain and time consuming.



My original plan was to same some dough and build my own control arms, but i decided to just buy some Rokmen short arms and save some time.


 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
With the axle in place and centered up everything clears at full compression. I still have this feeling that I will end up moving the track bar mount forward to fit the track bar and gain another inch or two of up travel. Not totally ready to pull the trigger on that yet though.







The link tab bolt holes are drilled now, and tomorrow I should be able to get them in place with some heavy tacks. Upper 2.0 joints showed up from Ballistic and hopefully I can get them in place too.
 

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Regarding fenders, I was planning to build my own high lines until I removed the stock fenders. I did not have time to build fenders and remount everything that attached to them. I wound up with metal cloaks overline fenders as they were the only 100% bolt on solution. They include new aluminum inner fenders that all of the factory components attach to. With the reason behind spending the money being to save time, it made sense. I will have them back from powder coat this week and can update on clearance. I am running an OME 2" lift, 1" body lift and 37" kevlar's which are a bit larger than your tires.
 

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You will apreciate those seat risers now that your lifted.But those things whoever built them are terrible.Just use a block of 1" aluminum just cut it Into little squares and drill a hole thru the center.Really helps when your actually wheelin to see up over the hood.I made a set and worked great when I had factory seats.
 
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