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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Parting the Jeep out

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=976350

I started a build thread about a year ago but have changed directions several times. So I am starting a new build thread now that I got the project going. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=624573&highlight=tnjeep

Current standings
2000 Jeep TJ
4.0L
Stock wheelbase
Manual trans, NV 3500
4:88 Dana 30
4:88 HP Rear 60

Goal (Sometime next year)
Backhalfed and dovetailed
79 HP 60 front
14 bolt rear
11" rear 6" front stretch
(112" Wheelbase)
Atlas 5:1
NWF Blackbox 2.71:1
42x15x16.5 pitbull rockers tires
H1 double beadlocks
1.25" Jimmy Joints
3-link front
4 link rear
16" Fox Coilovers all around

I am letting a few local guys do the suspension and cage work, figured they had a lift and better shop and it would be a hell of alot eaiser than working on the ground in my small garage.
I will post along the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The Jeep as it was a few weeks ago



Under the knife and a little bit of cage work





 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I going to run 42 x 15 x 16.5 Pitbull Rockers on H1 12 bolt beadlocks







The Atlas 5:1 should be going in in a couple of weeks behind the NWF blackbox (which should arrive next week):p



14 bolt and 79 HP 60 5:13 gears, with Detroits, chromolly shafts dedenbear knuckles and CTMs



 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Decided to run black Mastercraft Rubicon seats



I wanted big joints that will not break. Got 14 1.25" Summit Machine Jimmy Joints for the uppers and lowers and 7/8" Heims for the front track bar.



I am planning to run 2.25" 3/8" wall lowers and 1.75" .120 Wall uppers.

More to come over the next month or two.
 

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you are going to love those seats. I have them and the difference between them and my stock seats was night and day. Even when i was on 32'' tires i could tell a huge difference in the ride and i wasnt worn out after a day of wheeling. Subscribed and am looking forward how you make a juggy a dd and make it pass street laws.
 

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Subscribed and am looking forward how you make a juggy a dd and make it pass street laws.
X2 Not too sure on the TN street laws. I don't understand why they have such strict laws on 4x4's, however, sandrails are able to run around without mudflaps or anything.

Looks like you've got some beef going into this, good start.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I planning on putting a spare on the back which will double as a back bumper and I will probally have to run some type of Mud Flaps. However, there are alot of Toyotas that run around here with beds off.

Got a few tubes put in tonight. I am planning on setting it low, shooting for about 5" between the rear body cut and the top of the 42's.







Planning on chopping the frame off right behind the where the kicker is welded at the back then tying it in.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I still got to decide if I am going to run coilovers or air shocks in the back. Either way I think I will go 16" of travel. For the front I am planning 14" coilovers with a spring rate of 175 200. Looking at the different options but I am leaning toward fox with external resevoirs.
 

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14 Bolt?

Hey tnjeep,

Where did that 14 bolt come from? I think I may recognize it due to the lime green color of it. I really like the way this build is looking and best of luck to ya. Once you get it finished, I'll show your thread to a buddy of mine and he will probably want to do this to his DD TJ!!! I really love the "Highline" fenders and hood.

ridered3
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Made some progress on the cage. It should be completed soon. The NWF black box shipped out so maybe it will be here next week.











Got to order the coilovers and cutting brakes this week. I think I am going to go with poly performance.

Planning to go with 4 SAW 16" c/o with a 175/250 or 200/300 16" lowers and 14" upper w/ tenders springs up front and 175/200 16" lowers and 14" upper w/ tenders springs in the back to start with. I want to end up with about 5 to 6 inches uptravel and 10 to 11 inches down travel.
 

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TN is pretty light on the laws of 4x4's from what I've heard.
Yeah it kinda depends on the cop... Here in Cleveland they are so crooked so if they like your rig your good. If they don't like it they will try to put you under the jail...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
As far as the laws in Tennessee Here what I am trying to comply with, inorder to be street legal.

"55-9-212. Mudguards on trucks — Penalty

a) No person shall operate upon a public highway or street any motor vehicle, including a separate truck tractor (normally used in a tractor-trailer combination), or combination of vehicles having a carrying capacity in excess of three thousand pounds (3,000 lbs.), if the motor vehicle or combination of vehicles is not equipped with rear fenders, mudflaps or mudguards of such size as to substantially prevent the projection of rocks, dirt, water or other substances to the rear. The fenders, flaps or guards shall be of a type approved by the commissioner of safety.

55-9-215. Operation of motor vehicle without adequate energy absorption system prohibited — Alteration of altitude from ground level of passenger car prohibited — Modification of front end by lift blocks prohibited — Modification of steering mechanism prohibited — Exceptions — Enforcement — Penalties. —

(a) No person shall operate a motor vehicle on any road, street or highway unless the vehicle is equipped with a bumper or other energy absorption system with an analogous function.

(2) No person shall operate a four-wheel drive recreational vehicle of a type required to be registered under the laws of this state upon a public highway or street modified by reason of alteration of its altitude from the ground if its bumpers, measured to any point on a load-bearing member on the horizontal bumper bar, are not within the range of fourteen to thirty-one inches (14-31) above the ground, except that no vehicle shall be modified to cause the vehicle body or chassis to come in contact with the ground or expose the fuel tank to damage from collision or cause the wheels to come in contact with the body under normal operation, and that no part of the original suspension system be disconnected to defeat the safe operation of the suspension system; provided, that nothing contained in this section shall prevent the installation of heavy duty equipment to include shock absorbers and overload springs; and provided further, that nothing contained in this section shall prevent a person from operating a motor vehicle on a public highway with normal wear of the suspension system if normal wear does not affect the control of the vehicle. In the case of a four-wheel drive vehicle where the thirty-one-inch limitation is exceeded, the vehicle will comply with this section if the vehicle is equipped with a drop bumper. The drop bumper must be bolted and welded to the frame of the vehicle and be made of a strength equal to a stock bumper.

(3) No person shall modify or cause to be modified by the use of lift blocks the front end suspension of a motor vehicle.

(4) (A) Maximum frame heights for motor vehicles shall be as follows

(ii) Trucks and recreational vehicles

(b) 4,501-7,500 lbs.26 inches

(B) Frame height measurements shall be taken from the bottom of the frame by measuring the vertical distance between the ground and the lowest point of the frame directly below the point in line with the center of the steering wheel.
(5) No person shall operate a motor vehicle having a distance greater than four inches (4) between the body floor and the top of the frame.

(6) No person shall modify or cause to be modified the original manufacturer installed steering mechanism, including welding, nor the front spindle where the brake pads mount, on a passenger vehicle or a truck or recreational vehicle with a weight up to ten thousand pounds (10,000 lbs.).

Other requirements: Rear view mirrors, lights windshield ect."

My plan is run mudflaps in the rear only, as it is not required in the front. The lowest point of my frame will remain less than 26" off the ground. I will maintain less than 4" between the frame and the floor. My front bumper should be less than 31 inches of the ground. I will have a makeshift rear bumper mounted under my spare tire carrier. I consider coilovers to be heavy duty shocks for the drivetrain I am running. I am going to run hydro assist.
 

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Yeah it kinda depends on the cop... Here in Cleveland they are so crooked so if they like your rig your good. If they don't like it they will try to put you under the jail...
Hey, what's up in Cleveland these days??!! I went to Lee many moons ago. I hope Perkins is still there! I spent more time there than the dorm:)

sorry for the highjack
 

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I wanted big joints that will not break. Got 14 1.25" Summit Machine Jimmy Joints for the uppers and lowers and 7/8" Heims for the front track bar.

I am planning to run 2.25" 3/8" wall lowers and 1.75" .120 Wall uppers.


thats great that your joints won't be broken when your uppers bend in half
 

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thats great that your joints won't be broken when your uppers bend in half
Dude, 1.75'' .120 wall uppers will NOT bend. Ever heard of a company called polyperforamce, all of their kits use .120 wall uppers and I have never heard of anyone bending one. Plus when is an upper ever going to get hit when wheeling?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If they bend I will change them but they will not see near the load of the lowers
 
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