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Discussion Starter #1
I started a new build. From the beginning. My wife and I flew to LAX on Feb 18th from Wichita to buy a jeep we knew nothing about. Then drove it home 1543 miles and had a blast. The day after we bought it we hit some trails in Sedona, AZ and plan to make a trip back there real soon. It had some really bad on road problems. The track bar bushings were shot. The steering box was about to fall off. And the baja claws were shot. Made for a real fun trip home.

As it sat.
2006 Jeep wrangler rubicon
Rubi 44s F/R. 4.88s. PSC bombshell covers
Nth Degree 6" long arm suspension.
GenRight corner armor and rockers
MetalCloak/Rev111 front fenders
Garmin Jeep trail guide GPS
35" baja claws.

The day after we purchased it.


I got home and started selling parts. I sold the hard top, seat covers, tuffy console, and the cupped claws. I purchased a set of 35" KM2s and stuffed them with some ultra wheels. I made the jeep drive straight down the road and perform like it was supposed to and drove it to the Big Meats Run in March/2010.



After wheelin around at the BMR I was pissed. I missed the wheelbase and width of my last jeep. So I knew some things had to change. Once I made it home it didn't take long to start selling more parts. I sold the heavy tire carrier off the back, the axles, all the GenRight armor, and the metal cloak fenders. I got it back down to basics on the tub.



I called and talked to Sean at Rokmen and ordered a set of their hi line fenders and some hood edge molding so I could trim my stock hood. Once the fenders showed up I got them installed.








EDIT: 10.11.18 Build list.

2006 JEEP WRANGLER RUBICON
DRIVE TRAIN

2008 L92 6.2L(403 hp and 415 lb·ft) from Cadillac Escalade(13k miles when pulled. 15, 500k current)
Custom Griffin Dual Pass Radiator and mount with high CFM fan
Matching 6L80e transmission with steering wheel tap shift tuned by Jim at Zero Gravity
Winters Shifter
Hero 3 Speed transfer case with 2.44 mid and 3.75 low
High Angle Drive Line drive shafts. Front and rear shafts can be swapped so you only need 1 spare.
Custom Motobilt Fuel Cell with Aeromotive Phantom 340 stealth fuel pump
Custom Trail Worthy Fab Fuel Cell Mounts with custom powder coat
Custom Fuel Cell enclosure
Custom Exhaust
Die Hard Platinum AGM Deep Cycle Battery

FRONT AXLE
Torq Axle 14 Bolt drop-out with Torq Axle custom housing. (Everything 100% Brand new when built)
Torq 14 bolt drop out
Wide Open Design custom truss
Reid Inner C’s(Dana 70 forgings)
Solid GM Dana 60 Knuckles
Artec High steer arms keyed to solid knuckles
Reid Solid Bronze king pin bushings
5.38 Gears with solid pinion spacer. Sierra Gears
High Angle Drive Line 1410 Pinion flange
ARB Air Locker
4340 Chromoly Inner axle shaft
Yukon Super Joints
4340 Chromoly Outer axle shaft
TWF Dana 60 Drive flanges
Yukon Hardcore Dana 60 Lock outs
Off Road Gear Dana 60 Brake Caliper brackets
Wilwood 6 Piston Calipers
Wilwood 14” Street Rotors
PSC Full Hydraulic Steering with custom tie rods. Linked to Artec high steer arms in double sheer.

REAR AXLE
Torq Axle 14 Bolt drop-out with custom Torq Axle Housing(Everything 100% brand new when built)
Torq 14 bolt drop out
Wide Open Design custom truss
5.38 Gears with solid pinion spacers. Sierra Gears
High Angle Driveline 1410 Pinion Flange
ARB Air Locker
4340 Chromoly Axle shafts
Off Road Gear Custom brake caliper brackets
Wilwood 4 Piston calipers
13” GM Rotors

SUSPENSION
Custom 4 link front and rear
EMF 1.25 Rod Ends with ¾” through bolt
Fox 14” Tuned Coilovers
Rear Currie Anti Rock
Front Currie Anti Rock

WHEELS AND TIRES x 5
17x10 Trail Worthy Fab Double D bead locks paint matched
43x14.50 TSL SX with 95% tread.


BODY AND ARMOR
Custom Paint - Cyber Grey Metallic
Less than 30k miles on Tub/Frame
Trail Worthy Fab Rear Back Half kit
AEV High line hood
Rokmen High line fenders
PSC Front bumper with custom powder coat
PSC Ricochet Rockers
PSC Comp Cut rear corners – Aluminum
Warn Zeon 8s Winch – Factor 55 Pro Link
Motobilt LED light bar brackets
50” Trail Worthy Fab 4D Light bar
TruckLite LED head lights
American Superlite LED turn signals front and rear
PSC Laser cut roll cage with extra tubing
Mastercraft Baja RS seats mounted to the cage. Full recline, lumbar, sliders
5 Point harness for both seats
Autometer Guages
Full CB radio with external speaker
Garmin JEEP branded GPS on dash
Full Doors - New soft top
Trail Rated Badge
Mall Rated 4x4 Badge of Honor
Roots Vibrosonic Loud Horns
Grant Quick Disconnect steering wheel
Twist Machine Shrifter tap shifter to control 6L80e (With rev match)
Line-X interior

STEREO
Kenwood head unit – USB, Bluetooth
Rockford Fosgate 4 Channel amplifier to control mids
Rockford Fosgate Class D amplifier to control subs with bass knob
Front 4x6 Polk Audio Components
Rear 6.5” Polk Audio Coax in Crawl Tunes cans
2 – 12” Polk Audio Subwoofers
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
I sold the 35" KM2s and borrowed some beat up BFG ATs. I called up bluetorch and ordered a set of comp corners and the matching rocker guards. I got them all hard mounted.



And today I installed all of my brake lights and tag lights. The brake lights are 4" American Superlight LEDs. The 3rd brake light is ASL as well.





The light output on the LEDs are phenomenal.



This is my AEV LED tag light.



I bought a 14 bolt axle. It was in typical condition.



I had it sand blasted and I primed it.



Then I cut the brackets. I swore after my last jeep I would never do this again.



And painted it up.

 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Which brings me current. I really lucked out. I have an amazing wife who loves the jeep thing. I was looking at pictures of the AEV high line heat reduction hood when she happened to catch a glimpse. She convinced me to buy one. It should be here any day.

So now it is just planning on where to go. The short list that works in my mind.

- I have a Ford high pinion 60 on the way.
- 14 bolt rear axle. It will get a shave job.
- 4 link front and rear. Gonna toss some aluminum links at it this time.
- ORIs
- 40" tires. I can't make up my mind. But I'm leaning towards the Kevlars.
- PSC full hydro.
- Keep it low.
- 105-107" wheelbase.
- Stock drive train for now. The future plan is to upgrade with a stroker, AW4, and atlas.
- Cage, seats, blah blah blah.

I feel like I've learned so much crap over Project: Dookey that I can incorporate what I learned. I can use what I feel works great and redo what didn't work so well the last time. I'm going to use this thread for motivation. I struggled through my last build basically cause I didn't know what I was doing. This time I've made up my mind to focus on safety as much as possible. Eye goggles, ear protection, and sleeves are a must this time.

I've had quite a few people express that they were excited that I was building a new jeep. I hope I can do that justice and end up with something that I will enjoy along with something that is pleasing to others.
 

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Andy, as you know (i think lol) dookey was one of my fav jeeps... i cant wait to see how this one turns out and hopefully you will keep it a little longer this time. ill be watching this build close and i think its gonna be badass..
 

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Sounds like a good build. Mine is very similar. Just recieved my Rokmen highlines as well, but havent installed them.
JM
 

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Discussion Starter #8
killer man, I watched your last build and it came out sick! cant wait to see this one

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Thanks!

Andy, as you know (i think lol) dookey was one of my fav jeeps... i cant wait to see how this one turns out and hopefully you will keep it a little longer this time. ill be watching this build close and i think its gonna be badass..
I hope to keep this one for a long time. That's how I came up with Dookey's Revenge. This is payback for getting out of my last jeep. :D

looks like a good start for the build, what are the specs on the aluminium links and what joints are you planning on using?
2" 7076 drilled and tapped on johnny joints. This jeep will see lots of street time so I want something that won't transmit vibes into the cabin. I like JJs because they are inexpensive, flex well, and are rebuildable. I will use the 1.25x12 with left hand and right hand threads so I can adjust them on the vehicle.

I had 2" x .500 wall on Project Dookey and bent one of the links. Hopefully the aluminum links will give enough to serve two purposes. If it is bent I will replace it so hopefully it gives enough that I won't have the cost twice. And the lower cross member mount at the frame will be really close to the transmission pan. So I'm hoping that the flexible arms will help keep the cross member where it is supposed to be.

Sounds like a good build. Mine is very similar. Just recieved my Rokmen highlines as well, but havent installed them.
JM
You will be very impressed with their quality. I installed mine myself. So it should be pretty easy. :laughing: I was looking at Jeff's welds on his hi lines and wish I could tig. I had to run body filler over my booger welds just to hide them.

As soon as I get my hood in I'm going to ship this thing off to the body shop and have everything body matched. When I first started looking for a wrangler I wanted silver. Now I finally have it. So I'm going to keep it that way.
 

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Looking good Dookey....something told me that the Rubi wouldn't stay "stock" very long! :p
 

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I was wondering if you were ever going to get another rig!

Hell your first version of Dookey on leafs was my backdorp to my project. I am interested in watching the rear 4 link as I am doing the same thing right now. I got some 2.25" Aluminum stock from a Jet boat builder friend. Going to do the same like setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Looking good Dookey....something told me that the Rubi wouldn't stay "stock" very long! :p
I've been hearing the same all over. :laughing: When I got the comp corners in I wanted to get them installed that night. Anya helped me out and after we cut the first corner we realized that we've only had this jeep for 2 months and 2 days before cutting it up. :laughing:

I really thought I could keep this jeep on the long arms and stock wheel base. But stock wheelbase sucks.

I was wondering if you were ever going to get another rig!

Hell your first version of Dookey on leafs was my backdorp to my project. I am interested in watching the rear 4 link as I am doing the same thing right now. I got some 2.25" Aluminum stock from a Jet boat builder friend. Going to do the same like setup.
I think I'm most excited about the 4 link front and rear. The front end of Dookey worked really well. The leaf springs were alright. But they weren't great. I was reading some of your posts on ROF about relocating the smog pump and emissions. I think it is great that we've both helped out each other for motivation and inspiration.

Dookey was a 99. My wife's jeep was a 2000. I bought a 98 sport there for a minute. This 06 rubicon has little differences all over it. The interior is different, the wiring for the tail lights is different, the smog crap sucks. Even all of the skid plate bolts have a different thread pitch. I've had to relearn quite a bit of stuff for this jeep.

I hacked off my stock air box so I could reuse the tube. I bought a [email protected] cone filter to fit on the end of the tube. But until it gets here lowes will do. :laughing:



Moved it out to take some pics. The last time I sat my comp corners right on top of the rocker guards. The vibration ate all the paint away between the two and it eventually started to rust. So I left a small gap between the 2 this time.







 

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Good to see you back at building another rig Andy.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Andy, awesome Duke2 lives!!! What height are you shooting for, belly and frame to ground wise?

I'm hoping to be around 4-5" of lift for 40s. I'm going to play around with some numbers and see what happens. Like dookey, I don't mind having extra lift since the main place I wheel requires lots of belly clearance. But it won't be near as tall as dookey. I'm hoping the frame ends up around 21" or so.
 

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I plan on ordering the same rockers/corners here shortly. I noticed they only recommend about an 8'' rear stretch before you start getting into the corners. I kinda wanted to go about 10'' in the rear and 6'' in the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I plan on ordering the same rockers/corners here shortly. I noticed they only recommend about an 8'' rear stretch before you start getting into the corners. I kinda wanted to go about 10'' in the rear and 6'' in the front.
Project Dookey had a 12" stretch in the rear. But I ran enough lift that it didn't matter.

 
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