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Discussion Starter #1
That's right. Officially cut up the F-toy. Not going to be competing, so I decided it was time to step it up. The goal of this build is going to be a kickass trail buggy. Here's the list of upgrades that you will be seeing in this build up:

-Dana 60 front axle DRW (until I get SRW hubs), 4.88's, welded, Parts Mike arms, stock shafts for now, rebuilt, Ruff Stuff diff cover
-14 bolt FF rear axle, disk brake conversion, 4.88's, welded, milled down ring gear, severly shaved pumpkin, Ruff Stuff diff cover
-PSC full Hydro. 2.5" double ended ram kit with all the fixin's:smokin:
-Hummer Rims
-42" Irok's
-1990 Chevy 4.3L converted to run on my Got Propane kit.
-T350 tranny, Art-Carr shifter, using Downey adapter to Marlin dual ultimate cases.
-Marlin Brackets, Ruff Stuff brackets for all the axle hanging.

I've been collecting for awhile and have everything but the tires. Even though I have everything, it's going to take awhile to build. Have a new addition to the family arriving in the next couple of weeks. Stay tuned for pics. to come shortly.
 

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H M F
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Cool, you know why I'm gonna like this build up:cool2:

How far into the ring gear are you going on the 14b? If you take off more than just the 1 bottom bolt (I took off 3) I have a slick solution to keep your cover from peeling back.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Cool, you know why I'm gonna like this build up:cool2:

How far into the ring gear are you going on the 14b? If you take off more than just the 1 bottom bolt (I took off 3) I have a slick solution to keep your cover from peeling back.
Planning on taking off a 1/4" off the ring gear to start and then I'll go from there. Spill the beans with the cover solution.:D Right now I'm taking a Ruff Stuff 3/8" thick cover kit and cutting it down and adding plate. Going to weld 1/2" to the bottom and then drill and tap it so that new bolts can go across the bottom.
 

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H M F
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Spill the beans with the cover solution.:D

Weld it on:flipoff2:




I think with only taking 1/4" off the ring gear, you will probably only be losing the bottom bolt. If that's the case, a 3/8" thick diff ring/cover will probably hold it shut just fine.

I took ~9/16" off the ring gear, and just barely got the bottom 3 bolt holes shaved off. Have around .030-.060" clearance between the ring gear and the new plate. Probably a little tighter than it should have been, but it doesn't see the street and no problems so far...

See if you can tell what going on. If it's too hard to see, I'll explain it later.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Started off by tearing off the front end and selling it off. Took off the steering and hydro assist and sold that off. Next I will cut off the front spring hanger and weld on a new one. Going to push it forward another inch or so. Going to go ahead and build an outboarded rear shackle hanger in the back of the front spring. Decided not to go through the frame farther back.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Tore the 60 apart and rebuilt it. A big thanks to Parts Mike for all his help. He has incredible customer service and knowledge. Not to mention fast shipping. Here are some of the pics. of the rebuild.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Here are Parts Mike's arms. They eliminate the spring at the top off the knuckle. Another cool part of his kit is the fact that it comes with ARP studs for the knuckles.:smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Since this axle was sourced from a 1978 Dodge dually, it has external style hubs. Instead of the Chevy style internal hubs. Couldn't find any aftermarket lockouts for this application. So I had Parts Mike find me these factory replacements. Going to go with SRW hubs with chromo inners, outers and lockouts in the future, but this will work for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
After looking at all the different options for diff guards, I finally decided on Ruff Stuff Specialties covers. They are 3/8" thick:smokin:. Very well made, all one piece bent together. I opted for the weld together kit. Super cheap compared to everyone else. Here are their 60 cover and 14 bolt cover that will get cut up to fit the shaved housing. Also ordered were their 14 bolt disc brake brackets and 14 bolt simple swap kit. Super beefy and cheap.:smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Finally got the six-O finished up. Rebuilt thanks to Parts Mike.:smokin: Ended up using Spicer joints for now, until more money comes trickling in. Also using the stock shafts for now, I think that they will be strong enough to get the 42's around for awhile. Hopefully:rolleyes:
 

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Fyrdude,

Were are you going to position your 4.3? I am doing a 4 seat f-toy and can't decide were to put the engine. I thought about 6 inches back but I was wondering what other might be doing.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #13
What a pain in the arse it was cleaning up this axle. Spent weeks soaking in the parts washer and it still took a ton of elbow grease and lets not forget the wire wheel attachement on the grinder. The gears in the front end are factory 4.88's:smokin: Going to just weld the front for now. Future plans are for an ARB. The 14-bolt will be getting 4.88's, the thick ones that fit the smaller 4.10 carrier. Will also be welding this up until I can get some ARB's
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here is my favorite part of the buildup thus far. I get a partial wood everytime I go in the garage and look at it. Here is the full hydro kit from PSC. They are incredible people over there. Very awsome customer service, very helpful in customizing a kit especially for you. This is everything I will need, minus the fluid. Very well thought out kit and very high quality. Very fast shipping too. Like 3 days fast.:smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
They even resplined the short column for a Toyota shaft.:smokin: I can't wait to see this thing on there. Unfortunately I ordered the bracket kit for a Toyota. I wasn't thinking about the 4.3 at that time. I will have to come up with a bracket for the Chevy engine or exchange the TC pump for a P-pump with PSC. We shall see.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
:D
Fyrdude,

Were are you going to position your 4.3? I am doing a 4 seat f-toy and can't decide were to put the engine. I thought about 6 inches back but I was wondering what other might be doing.

John
The engine was originally placed aprrox. 6" back I think. Whatever the max that the rules state you can move you engine back is what I did. I am just goint to move the engine forward to accomodat the 4.3 and t350. Luckily, I also have 8274 winch which is the size of a boat anchor. Going to remove this and make even more room for the engine and radiator. Stay tuned for pics to come.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I've even thought about keeping the DRW front and getting spacers for the rear 14 bolt so they sit close to the same width. Man will that be wide.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Anyone have any ideas for mounts for the double ended ram? Keep in mind that it has leaf springs. Thought about copying BTF's mount. Minus the $500 plus.
 
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