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Discussion Starter #1
I recently sold my K5 blazer and have bought another TJ. This build has been on going and because of request from some members here I am going to put a good portion of the build to this site and continue to update it here from here out.

This makes number 6 on the Jeeps for me and it should be a good platform to work from. It is a 2001 TJ with I6. No kids, a decent job and wonderful GF that I met wheelin has allowed me to build up this project. I’ve done the entire build in our garage with a moderate amount of tools and the guys at Copperhead fab letting me use their bender from time to time. I know that there is much better fab work out there but I would rather have the pride of doing it myself, even if it causes me to do it twice. I’m guessing here and putting this in the Hardcore section even though it is not as “Hardcore” as most but I am building most of the items myself and not relying on bolt on only.

A friend of mine had the TJ for a few years. He bought it for his wife to drive around town when she did not want to drive her vette. Come to find out she never wanted to drive the Jeep. They have had it for 3 years and haven't put 5,000 miles on it.

I had previously installed the Rancho 2.5 kit with front sway bar disconnects, new coils, 9000 series adjustable shocks, new lower control arms front and rear all for him.

I also installed the crummy chrome parts, some KC lights and a full stereo system a few years back. I am breaking into this and starting to strip down all the unwanted chrome and junk from the previous owner.

I hate to bore the people here with the minor details I too had sit in the back here on pirate for a long time reading quietly and I know there are lots of other beginning people that are searching for ideas in the background. So I’ll keep the text to a minimum while I get everyone caught up. I’ll go back and edit the text if people want more info.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
A bit of a fast forward through the many evolutions of this Jeep in the 1.5 years I have had it. I will not bore everyone with the entire build process as it would be 30+ pages long. Even shortening it this will be a long build post. If you want any detailed information or pics on a part of the project let me know and I will post it up.

SRC Bumper installed with some clevis hooks and a Mile Marker 8000lb winch which decided to spool up on its own one day in the garage and scratched up the grill and burnt the motor up. (Replaced with a Warn 8000) and sprayed some Herculiner on the inside of the tub.

** One of the best 2 - minute mods you can do... is pull the visors off the mounting shafts and swap the two sides with each other so you can put the dang warning stickers on the back side. **

Just some newbie FYI's when servicing the auto trans it is easily done with the skid in place there is only one bolt near the exhaust bracket that might take a bit of work. Make sure the jeep is tilted a bit a** high and break the front of the pan loose with one rear bolt still partially installed. I filled mine back with 4 qts of oil and buttoned it up after replacing the filter and gasket. As I was disposing of the used oil I thought it would be only right to flush most of the oil in the system. I removed the driver side hose entering the radiator and installed the tube from my trans funnel over the hose and into a 1 gallon bucket. With the motor running, wheels choked, emergency brake on you can place the trans in nuetral and the pump will engage and pump fluid out of the removed hose. I filled the jug up with about 3 qts and shut it off. Dumped the used fluid and refilled the trans. Do this a couple of times until you get clean fluid pumping and you are good to go.

FYI on removing the rubber windshield bumpers from hood. A deep 10mm socket with some grease on the inside will pop them right out. Push the socket onto the bootom of the rubber flange until it contacts the hood. Give it a good twist and pull the rubber bumper off the hood. You should have the socket out already from removing the upper hood clamp brackets. Bottom hood clamp brackets are 15mm. Hood winshield hold-down bracket is a 9mm. Wiper fluid noozels pop out with a set of neeedle nose pliers and remove the hose at the double male fittings on the hose not at the noozle iteself.

P.S. Do not let a buddy reinstall your windshield tie down bracket after he has had a few beers. He will overtighten it and snap off the shaft causing you to cuss and have to order a new one even though you will never use it. You will just hate the holes in the hood.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Put some trailer LEDs in the factory body locations, stuck some reverse lights on the back and added the LED third brake light to the rim which to date has been the most noticed thing on the Jeep and makes me shake my head every time someone comments. I used the Trucklite 44030R led lights. They come as a kit with a single light unit, pigtail and the grommet. I paid $17.31 per unit. The are 44 led and plenty bright. I also installed a new flasher to fix the fast flash with the leds. The part is a Tridon EP27 and it is a direct plug and play for the original relay. All you have to do is remove 2 philips head screws from the bottom of the column cover and remove the two sections from the column. Pull out the old relay swap in the new one and button it up. It will work with both the rear only leds or both front and rear leds.

I used a hacksaw blade to make a pattern (drilled for radius of hole and screwed in for a pivot) I like this method because I have used blades and you can bend and drill them easily.

I used the lower wire opening and upper bolt hole as measurements for the placement since both were equadistant on each side.

For multiple reasons I masked off the area once placement was fixed and remarked the holes. This provides protection to the paint and keeps it from chipping. It also allowed me to prime the cut edge with rattlecan after the holes were made.

I soldered in all the connections via the guide below and ground to the double pinch weld inside the rear corners. There was nothing at all in the inners to interfere with the mounting on my 01 TJ.

You can see in the pictures that I lowered the license plate frame about 3/4", redrilled the holes and threaded them. For good measure I filled in the old holes with a bit of black gasket maker.

Jeep Wrangler TJ Factory
Wire Color Codes

Left Side:
Tail = Black/Yellow Tracer
Brake/Turn = Green/Red Tracer
Back-up = Violet/Black Tracer

Right Side:
Tail = Black/Yellow Tracer
Brake/Turn = Brown/Red Tracer
Back-Up = Violet/Black Tracer

Ok for the 3rd brake light I removed the tire and confirmed that this is a really snug fit in the factory wheel. I tapped it in place with a rubber hammer to be safe.The light will only mount from the inside of the wheel so if it did ever pop out it would be rattling inside the carrier and not on the ground. I cut the two wire trailer pigtail in half and soldered the male section onto the light (male as in the power side exposed metal) this way if I removed the spare and unplugged the light I do not have to worry about any exposed power wires for the brake lights grounding out. Plus the trailer light plugs are much better at keeping out moisture and being connected and disconnected versus the male female connections I have seen used on projects. I attached the other end to the factory third brake light wiring, loomed it up and drilled a passthrough hole in the center of the tire carrier mounting plate.

The only thing you have to be carefull with is pinching the wires between the carrier and wheel. It was an easy solution. I tossed the tire up on the carrier and just caught a few threads on each of the lugs to keep it in place, opened the tailgate and you can gain access to reach the wiring and pull it snug as you seat the wheel against the carrier. Tightened up the lugs and call the project done. Now if I want to remove the tire I just pull it off and unplug the wires. If it falls during the process the pigtail should break loose without damage.

Picked up an explorer 8.8 and installed lockrights and 4.56 front and rear. Still on the Dana 30 front axle.

Added interior winch controls, brown dog motor mounts and a JKS 1.25 body lift.

The high-lift has been mounted all over the Jeep at one point or another and there was time when the reverse a bars went from frame mount to body mount to rocker mount getting cut up more each time, a Bestop tire carrier was used on the rear with the addition of the 35’s t and 4” springs. RE adjustable uppers and track bars etc. etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I installed a second factory switch panel in place of my ashtray.

It was fairly simple and I had no issues but tools are key here. I removed both of the mounting legs from the switch panel with an sir saw and hacked the factory ashtrey roughly out of the dash surround. I then used a carbine burr bit on my dremel to shape all the plastic pieces. Tacked them inplace with jb weld and mounted them with plastic mender 2 part epoxy.

You will need to remove a slight bit of the width of the switch panel to get them to fit side by side. I clearanced the dash surround equally on the passenger side to make a rectangular opening. The carbine bit is one of the best tools for this because you can shave the plastic off without it melting on you. It allows very fine adjustments to be made. I use 3m "tar" style sealing compound to hold the parts together while fitting. I learned this trick many years back installing car stereos. We often had to build entire new dash panels.

I see everywhere people using Krylon Fusion to repaint the factory flares. I just need mine to look decent until I go tube so that was a bit too much work I then saw a guy with great results from using a propane torch.

Well I grabbed the heat gun and it was truly unbelieveable. I ran the gun over the flares and it was almost like the heat gun was painting them black. I think you could go buy a heat gun for not much more then the Krylon would cost and it is a handy tool to have. I tried to get some pictures but the glare just doesn"t do the work justice. The front fender was scrathced bad and the scratch is still there but it is not really noticeable now that it is all the same color. Try it, for sure before painting.


Chopped off the ends of the SRC front bumper and added some tube fenders. You’ll start to see the mild use of Herculiner beginning now. The fenders are from T&T customs and they are all top notch. The welds and bends are excellent and the fit was superb. The only question I have for them might be why they do not build them to go down far enough to cover the bottom corner of the tub? They are about 1" short of fitting perfectly at the bottom. They are made to also fit the newer Jeeps and that might be the case. No matter since my lowers are going to protect that exposed area as much as possible.

I fit the driver side up with out painting anything and in the long run I wished I had coated both before drilling anything. I got all kinds of grease from my hands on the drivers side and really had to clean in after drilling the holes. The passenger side was installed after it was coated.

The coating is all self done herc sprayed with a large 6mm nozzle on a pressure pot gun. I hit most of the surfaces with an 80 grit disk to rough it up before coating.

A tip on marking the hood hold downs and the rubber bumpers: hook the hood hold downs on the hood and coat the bottom of the bolt with some grease and simply shut the hood until the grease contacts the fender. This will be your mark to drill. Same thing with the bumpers, coat both studs with grease and sit them in place.

The directions with the fenders were somewhat ok, no pictures at all. You really do not need directions to install these but I would like to know how in the heck they are talking about relocation the factory washer reservoir. Mine has two pumps since I have a hardtop and the directions were for a single pump so I am wondering if the bottle deminsions are different? I know they wanted it moved to the rear face of the drivers fender and that was not possible with the mounts that are on my bottle plus my Jeep has all the available options so crusie and all kinds of junk are mounted on the factory fenders. I relocated everything and currently do not have a washer reservoir. I am searching for an appropriate container to build a new one. I have a good location for it on the front of the fender where it was mounted but the bottle is currently too large.

I mounted the Viar compressor on the rear of the T&T fenders so back in buisness for on board air.

The passenger side really went on beautifully. Not much to mention her as far as needed mods here excepted the PCM. With the battery trey mounted in the new location I can some minor contact between the factory hold down and the pcm. So I moved the PCM up appx 1" and redrilled its mounts in the factory bracket thus gaining some peace of mind and clearance for the battery and hold down rod. I did get a chance to reroute a large portion of the wires and cleanup many of the conections.

The K&N is now on its thrid version since it got installed. I had to cut it up once to install the Warn winch controls. This time I had to move it out completely to clear the fenders. I have seen it done many a time without any support on the tube but that makes me very nervous. So I made a mount and welded it to the grill strut. I then installed a rubber isolator between the welded mount and the clamp on the filter. It is actually just as strong in this config as it was mounted in the cold air section on the factory fenders, plus it can still be easily serviced.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I got the Brown Dog 1" up Motor mounts and the JKS 1.25" BL and read through the directions for the BL. Looked simple and turned out a-ok with no hassles. I am not going to do a full write-up on the BL or the Motor Mounts since there are some good ones floating around already.

I am going to put in a few pointers for everyone.

(1) If you are going to put in the time to install a 1" BL then do the motor mounts. It was such a clean install not having to move the radiator shroud and depending on your application you might not even have to modify the trans linkage bracket. I'd put my name on the Brown Dog motor mounts anytime they are a fine product and customer service was excellent.

(2) The JKS directions were pretty good out of the box. The one change I would make is that they said to loosen all the body mounts and then jack up one side, add the spacers, lower and then loosely install the hardware. From past experience you need to lower the body enough to catch a few threads on the new hardware but not enough to limit you from moving the body mounts by hand. For fun I lowered the body all the way down and sure enough one bolt would not line up.

(3) Here is what I did with the radiator stubbers that everyone seems to have so much trouble with. I didn’t have time to freeze them as I have seen suggested here on JF. I lubed them with silicone spray as suggested and placed them in the hole. I then used a ball joint fork to apply upwards pressure and twisted the stubber with a pair of channel locks. Each one popped right in with a few complete revolutions.

(4) Motor Mounts: There were no directions included with these; just same warnings about fitment with different models. I had already read a few reviews for the mounts so I had a good idea of what was involved. With my 4.0 and AC I found it much easier to remove the entire drv side motor mount vs removing the AC compressor. With the 4 bolts removed from the transmount I put slight pressure on the bottom of the bell housing. Removed the four motor mount bolts and then the 2 cross bolts. The cross bolts still had pressure on them so they would not come out. The more pressure I put on the bell housing the more it raised the rear of the trans. I lowered the bell housing back down till it only had slight upwards pressure and placed my atv jack with 2x4’s under the oil pan and it worked like butter taking the pressure of the cross bolts. The pas side motor mount dropped right in from the top. I loosely installed the cross bolt and 2 motor mount bolts. One the drivers side there were 3 bolts holding the motor mount to the side of the block and I was able to twist the mount enough to get the cross bolt loose. Next just wrestle the new mount in to the driver’s side, reinstall the mount to the block and loosely install the hardware on the new raised mount. Make sure you do not tighten down the cross bolts enough to where they will no still turn under slight pressure. They have lock nuts and if you tighten them too much you will get addition vibes. I actually have less now then with the factory mounts.


Added the Skyjacker flat skid with the 231 and SYE installed. Went with the Terra brackets from DC4WD they are great people with awesome customer service. So much I called him back today and ordered a Tom Woods CV shaft, front and rear upper adjustable RE control arms and the 4.56 gears for the 8.8

There is some minor fitment with the Terra brackets but it was not too bad and I did it all with a flapper wheel. I filled the factory vent and have yet to decide where I am going to place the new one. I am going to wait until I have it test fitted under the TJ to decide if I can do it where the factory abs sensor was routed.

I got all my measurements from Stu's site and double checked with my 35. Thanks for the help and info Stu!

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/8.8axle/8.8axle-1.htm

** Part Numbers for 8.8 swap reference **


Brake Best Select SM667 Disk brake pads for the 8.8

Napa 95342 emergency brake cable 8.8 swap (part numbers on the JU forum are incorrect)

Napa 95547 emergency brake cable 8.8 swap (part numbers on the JU forum are incorrect)

Napa 380528 rubber flex hose 8.8 swap

Napa 813-1204 3/16"x20" hard brake line 8.8 swap

Napa 813-1206 3/16"x40 hard brake line 8.8 swap
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I am now almost searching for projects to work on, it is heartbreaking to look at the yukon gears for the 8.8 and an empty housing. I have to wait until Sat for some help on that project.

So I decided to do the bypass switch on the door pins. I have really big fingers and getting fuse four out is a pain in the arse.

I wanted the switch acessable from the passenger side but not noticeable as I have lots of friends that like to just flip switches to see what they do. I built a very simple 5min bracket out of some abs for the 20amp toggle to mount to.

On the 2001 TJ the main wiring harness from the fusebox goes towards the driversides. This gives you almost no slack in the wires and since I have to solder everything it made it really fun, but do-able. Cut the two yellow/black wires; soldered them together and onto one side of the switch and then back from the switch to the rear of the fuse box. Quick and easy door pin defeat switch.

Now for the actual beginning of fab work, I did some research and decided that I wanted to go ahead and build my cage from scratch so I ordered up Bendtech and got to work. Did some playing around first with the bender to get used to it and bent some pieces for the front SRC bumper. Tiff put in a hand on getting this completed.

I removed the entire cage no thanks to Jeep Engineers who must be lawsuit happy. The glue that holds down the B pillar plates and is used to fill the torx heads held better then the bolts themselves. Heck with as much glue as they used I do not think they needed any bolts. I removed the glue from the torx heads with a combination of a punch and a dental pick. If you smash the glue a couple times with a small punch and then try and pick it out it goes a lot faster. I made sure and hammered in the torx head before trying to loosen them and only had one strip. Of course it was one behind the pillar on the vertical side between the wheel well so I almost freaked out, but it came out pretty easy once I used a BFH and hammered in the next larger torx. The heads are pretty soft so it wasn't that big of a deal. I made sure and went and replaced all the hardware with hex head bolts to solve this issue in the future.

I cut off the front windshield mounts and will be plug welding them into the new tube arms for the windshield connection and made templates for the other factory location mounts. I am a bit undecided on how I will build the frame tie ins around the B pillar location but at this point I am more worried about the cage itself. I tried to purchase just the mounts for the cage along with some mounts for the factory seat belts but none of the people that sold full cage kits wanted to part with just that hardware, but I am thinking about making all these brackets in bulk in case some other people want them. I added a bit more material to the rear mounts because I am going to have multiple tubes itersecting at this point and thought that the larger foot plate would be more condusive to this and will provide another location to bolt the frame tie ins down.

Copperhead took all my templates and cut out any of the flate plate brackets I have used on the project and some of them they now offer for sale as a stock part.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
All 6 mounting locations are plated top and bottom around the body. Bottom plates are 1/4" larger then top to help prevent can opener action on the tub. Front and rear mount locations will have the pictured 1" shear pins in the center made from cold roll to prevent side load shear.

Bendtech is priceless when it comes to these compound notches. The tube is fitting flawless first time. I have yet to mess up a piece of tube and this is the first project I have used the software on. The only problem with it is it seems to be too easy to just add in more tube. I've got to stop somewhere or I won't be able to get in.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
While putting everything away I saw the factory sound bar setting in the parts pile and then I get carried away sometimes. I thought man those looks simple. A couple pie cuts for clearance drop it on, no big deal. I think I can even make the factory material work.

Well that would be fine except I found out that the sound bar rises above the plane of the tubes from the factory design. I just have no room to work with between the tube and the hardtop, I spent an hour sectioning the factory bar. Rosset welding the sections back together. Removing the ends to reform them without a rise.

I am now determined to make this thing work out of sure principle, but warn people in the future that these goofy side projects steal lots of time. Now I am already pondering the mounts instead of working on the rear fender design in Bendtech.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My CB will be mounted under the section where the dome light. I am used to having the main unit hidden somewhere because I only run on one channel most of the time and I think I would rather have it here and not looking at it directly all the time above my rear view mirror. The mike will be handy enough to get to and the speak.er should be easier to here since it is right next to my head.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Tiffani cut the front bumper and installed an Antirock.

I removed the rest of the AC ducting to the side vents and plugged them at the main collector. I had previously plugged them at the ends of the ducts near the outer vents but I saw no need in having the ducting in place behind the dash. As long as I have the two center vents and the main defrost I am happy. I rarely used the heater in west TX and the ac is pointless really since I always have the top removed during the warmer months.

I used spray foam and a bit of masking tape to close off the side vent openings. After it all dried I removed the masking and replaced it with the metal backed ducting tape then covered that with duct tape. I think they should be near airtight and hold up to the heater being on.

I also built the adapters for the Baja seats because the factory corbeau parts would have raised the seat another inch over the brackets that I fabed up. Overall it was a bit more work and money then I had thought to install a set of after market seats that were wide enough and at the right height to make me happy with spending the money. I got the seats mounted outboard as far as possible and at the furtherest rearward location they just touch the side of the cage. The inside also slides near snuggly against the console at full frontward movement. Overall they function perfectly and I am happy with the range of adjustment I have out of them. It is going to be possible for Tiff at 5’ to set the pedals in a good location as easily as it will be for me at 6’
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Now the real redneck work begun. I borrowed a friends A frame to attempt to remove the cage intact since it is just myself and Tiff putting in the labor. The few true friends that would have lent a hand all happened to be out of town or conveniently busy at the time I needed them. I really was at a standstill and needed the cage out so I figured we would just make something work.

I never did remove the steering wheel so it is not possible to pull the dash past it or out of the vehicle. I contemplated cutting the lower dash support and making it where it could bolt back in, but never got around to it. I thought we could twist the cage out and around the dash since we can pull it away from the firewall a fair amount.

My rush to do things on my own got us in a bit of a mess. We did get the cage out but it was frustrating to say the least. We managed to get it out without breaking anything on the dash or messing up any of the paint, but it did require us to break the tacks on the B pillar mounts and a few deep gouges in the herculiner had to be repaired the following day. Without Tiff these project would have gone horribly bad. She kept me calm during the process that was really getting to me. In hindsight I should have cut the front legs off the main cage, but we had already got it hung from the A frame and I was at the point of getting it out as a whole unit just to prove it could be done.

The A frame was about 10” short of the height I needed to simply hang the cage and drive out so we had contemplated putting blocks under the legs to gain the height, but I just didn’t feel safe with the homemade A frame sitting on blocks. The A frame itself was not stable enough for me to use the winch to raise the cage. I had attempted to run the rope through my bumper, over the A frame and down to the cage. Ended up using multiple straps and sucking the cage upwards to the A frame.

Once it was all hung we had to twist swing, hang, cuss, and wish our way out of the Jeep. Then as I had Tiff drive out from under it we almost caught the B pillar leg on the spare and took the A frame down on top of everyone and the Jeep.

During the whole process I had a few neighbors drive by and none offered to help as usually. I can only imagine what kind of redneck jokes went on that night. None of my neighbors even change their own oil so I think they all are stunned by even the slightest amount of wrench work.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Once it was out I made some adjustments to the front grab handle positions. Finish welded the front legs, windshield bar, and lower mounts. Then promptly cut the front section loose from the main cage. I will just lower the windshield and finish weld those few joints and paint those few spots with it reinstalled in the Jeep.

With the front section removed. Tiff and I were able to pick the cage back up and install it back in the Jeep without help from the A frame. I then reinstalled the B pillar feet and we pulled the main sections back out. All we had to do was strap the lower mounts together and pull the inwards about 1” in order to pull the cage out. Would have been nice to go this route from the start, but I learn as I go.

I got the sound bar all put back together and the factory wiring harness reinstalled into it. The two wires that ran to the factory overhead light have now been converted to power my CB. I tapped into the factory wiring behind the dash and fused it for constant power and ground. I removed the plug from the light housing and soldered it onto the cb so now it just plugs into the mount as needed. I have had a CB installed in near the same location and I really prefer it because I do not have to look at it all the time and it doesn’t block any of the already small windshield area. I can look in the rearview and confirm what channel the cb is on without turning my head and you get used to where the knobs are without even looking. Plus with me being near deaf as is having the speaker right by my head is nice and saves me from running and external speaker.

I finished welded the cage with my buddy’s super nice Miller and installed 20 of the Tanner cage gussets for good measure. I bent the tube for the harness support and will hopefully be getting that installed along with the tube flanges tonight. That will finish up most everything but prep and paint on the cage itself.

I want to get the cage fully painted and installed for the final time before I start on the frame tie ins since they will not require removal of the cage. I had some semi gloss black enamel mixed up and shot two coats on the seat frames and brackets so hopefully tonight Tiff will have those bolted back on the seats for the last time.

I am going to use the same semi gloss to paint the cage and ties ins as I feel there isn’t much need to do the Herc on the cage itself. I think it will make for easy touchups in the future from rock rash.

I got the Harness support all fabed up and installed with tube flanges so it can be removed if we want to put the backseat in for Sonic / Sunday cruising. I notched the tube so I could weld in ½” inserts for the shoulder harnesses to bolt to.

With the wonderful needed help of Tif we got the paint booth built and the main cage painted. There are a few spots under the cage that I will have to mix up another batch of paint for in the morning and get when I can tip the cage over to reach. Overall it went on smooth and I am really happy with the finished product.


** To help answer some of the PM's I have been getting on the cage project. I got the tanner gussets from http://www.pitstopusa.com/default.aspx **
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I will have to finish painting the upper windshield area on the A pillar after installation and final welding in the vehicle. I just do not want to have to jimmy this thing around to get it back in with the A pillar attached.

I got the seat belt brackets finished mounted double shear and used a sandwich plate under the body. There was just some minor clearancing required on the emergency brake bracket in order to clear the bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I got the second set of No Limits windshield frame brackets in and went to install those yesterday. I had already returned one set because after test fitting them and speaking with the guys at No Limits it sounded like they were not manufactured correctly. I will give them credit that my transaction occurred over the holiday season but it took about a month to get this replacement set and there is only 1 day shipping between us. They admit tingly do not check their voicemails and it was very hard to get them on the phone. When I did get them on the phone they were super nice and seemed helpful it just took numerous times talking with them to get a resolution, but after getting the second set they are still off as bad as the first.

I decided this is just their design and it really isn’t pleasing to me but I am going to make them work as is for the moment and in the future I will take a body hammer and dolly to them to get the fit better. I think with a few pie cuts and welding, I can get them to fit correctly with the rake of the windshield. They include a molding with the parts that is supposed to fill the gap, but I think it would look very cheesy.

Overall construction of the items are top notch, my lack of umph is in the fitment. I sprayed them with Herc because there is going to be a great amount of water that gets between the guards and the body and I wanted to prevent much marring of the factory paint in order to help prevent rusting of the frame under the guards.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I got both of the rear frame tie ins completed, painted, mounted DONE. I added gussets to both sides of the bushing tabs before final fitment. During the process I decided to drop the tank in order to weld the frame sections on and found one of the two tank straps had been broken off. One of the factory “tank dirt shields” it can’t be called a skid; mounting bolts was bent up. Overall the tank skid was dented in near 2” in one spot all from mild wheeling.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I trashed the skid and called up Rokmen for a true skid replacement. I’m also going to have to do some work on the fuel filler setup to run a somewhat stock filler neck. The cage tie in took precedence over the filler and I did not want to bend that tube to clear the neck. I really am not too worried about the filler because I am going to cut the fenders comp style sometime, but for know I kind of like the challenge of making it work and I think it is possible.

I love pulling gas tanks on these. Mine was 1/2 full, bent bolts, working by myself and it was still cake in comparison to some of the trucks I have owned.

I decided to cut the side bars off and do something different with that. Still waiting on the PSC rear sides to come in, but I have to pack for work in Vegas. I just ghetto fabed up the fuel filler until I get the sides cut and installed.

I got the Rokmen gas skid installed. This is one stout piece of gear. I have used a few other gas skids of the years and this one is by far the best. Do not even shop around for a skid. This one is the cats' meow.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I made some modification to the rockers and side bars. I have to have something to aid getting in and out of the Jeep. I really do not like the extra leverage these would apply to the sides if I do set them on a rock, but that is just the price to pay for the time being. I lined them up even with the tube on the front fenders and that sits the bars up about 1.5" from the lower part of the rocker. I should end up with rocks under the rocker more often then on the bar itself.

I will look into either tying these rockers in a bit more myself or getting some that go under the Jeep and tie in at the body mounts, but other things have to get done first. These will have to work for the time being. I just have them mocked up right now as I still need to finish weld them and get some Herculiner on them. I started to remove the paint with the 7" grinder and wire wheel, but got lazy and coated them with aircraft stripper and then took the pressure washer too them. Getting old really makes you look into the easy ways of doing these projects.

I mocked up the Poison spider guards today and got all the additional holes drilled for accessories like the cb antenna and Bestop tire carrier. I welded up all the flare holes and had to fill in one of the mounting holes on the guards that will partially be covered by the tire carrier mount.

I traced out the factory fender opening and used that as a pattern to open up the rear portion of the flares. I decided to go ahead and do this because a stretch is in the future plans. I did not want to run the standard comp corners as I will not need that much room and I wanted something different then off the shelf guards.

I took part of the removed metal and added it to the lower front portion of the guards to match up perfectly with the rocker panels as the factory PS cut was about 1.5” above my rocker guards. You can see the gap on the driver’s side that needs to be filled.

Tom I will start on the driver side fabrication. I am thinking I can fill the gas filler hole and recut the hole back about 2" and make the factory filler functional again with the frame tie in. I tossed the factory plate holder and bent the plate to follow the body redrilling the mounting holes. I will reuse the two light bolts above the plate and the factory 10mm screws on the bottom. I think and additional crew or bolt might be needed on the driver side to hold the edge of the plate flush with the panel.

You can see a crease on the body where the gap is above the rocker. I know the rocker guards are stout because I hit it hard yesterday bending the corner of my flat belly skid and pushing the rocker upwards enough that is bubbled out the rear quarter. I spent a bit of time with a sledge and a 2x4 flattening everything back out.

I relocated the gas filler location appx 2.5” rearward to clear the rear frame tie ins and allow use of all the factory filler equipment. I filled in the hole on the PSC corners and the recut the entire hole in the appropriate location. By turning the filler neck about 90 degrees from the factory position I was able to clear the vent tube from the frame tie in by about .5”

Some minor grinding to flush up the rockers and a bit of touchup Herc finished out the project.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Took the Jeep out to Katemcy and watched Tiffani get it sideways in the waterfall. Not all her fault but hey she was driving. Only took a minor bit of repair work to fix the Hard Top and made me decide to sell it and the full doors before we destroyed them.

I can't find the pictures but we rolled another buggy attempting to keep the driver side of the Jeep away from the rocks while getting it out of the channel.

Well the Jeep is about to go under the knife again. I am going to start removing the T case in preparation for the Atlas II. I have decided to sell the SYE and all my 231 parts along with the Tom Woods shaft. I'm getting upgraded yokes and outputs on the Atlas so I will have him build me new ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Picked up a 14 bolt and a HP Ford 60. Did a large potion of the cleaning via electrolysis. All you need is a watertight non conductive container to use as the bath. I use scrap pieces of tubing that I have for the sacrificial anodes. You can use any conductive metal but it will be destroyed in the process. I have used all kinds of scrap and everything has worked about equally well. I wire these in series with bailing wire and place them around the outside of the container. This entire chain will be connected to the positive lead of my batter charger (VERY IMPORTANT TO BE POSITIVE LEAD)

The part to be cleaned is placed inside the coil of anodes but not touching any of them. The part is connected to the negative lead of the battery charger.

The solution in the bath is made of 1 tablespoon washing soda per gallon of water. No need to make it stronger it will not help. I use Armor Hammer washing soda found at all WalMarts and such in the laundry section.

Make sure the charger is reading a minimum of 5 amps and an automatic setting usually will not work. I just flip my cheapo charger to manual and let it go. The cleaning happens in a line of sight so the entire anode chain needs to go around the part or you will need to turn the part several times.

The picture of the knuckle is after the process and a light manual wire brushing. It saves a heck of a lot of time if you can get the part in a bath. One of these days I will build a bath large enough for an entire axle. You can leave the part in as long as you like it will not damage it with overexposure. You can also reuse the bath solution for as long as you like it just gets nasty quickly. You will see bubbles appearing as the process works.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Got the housing, hubs and knuckles primed and painted. I also decided that the ½ wheel studs on the 60 were not going to cut it. One the 14 bolt has 9/16 and two the hummer wheels are designed for 9/16 studs. I didn’t want what I consider to be half ton studs on a one ton axle. I figured this would be no big issue. Go grab some new studs and press them in. Well days of searching led to the conclusion that there are no 9/16 studs that fit the ford hubs without redrilling them. No biggie but the project got a bit more costly then planned. One the best match for the stud ended up being a Dorman 610-278 for the Ford one ton Truck 96-80 Type: Serrated Stud Thread: 9/16-18 Knurl Dia.: .620" Length: 2-5/8" Shoulder Length: 1" That was all fine and dandy except that I always find the Ford parts are more expensive the same Chevy parts. This was one of those cases. The near match chevy was just a tad bit larger and would have required more drilling so I went with the Ford and the studs cost $1.00 more then the Chevy per stud, not bad until you are only talking a $2.00 part. So now I ended up with $3.00 studs and the store only had 4 instock. I also had to purchase a 39/64 drill bit to redrill all the stud holes in the hubs. Another $25.00 for the stinking bit that I really can’t see myself using again. So all said what I thought would cost about $35.00 ended up costing $75.00 and I still need to purchase another $45.00 worth of lug nuts.

Off to buy a new 1 5/16th socket so I can remove the pinion.
 

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