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*Ahem*....do those pictures show work being done in a collectable airstream trailer? Surely the Minister of Finance would frown upon that. :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #42
*Ahem*....do those pictures show work being done in a collectable airstream trailer? Surely the Minister of Finance would frown upon that. :flipoff2:
WHAT? I CAN'T HEAR YOU OVER THE SOUND OF HOW GOOD MY ARB WORKS NOW.

Oh yeah and if you know anyone who wants to buy one of those fancy airstreams, it's for sale. I need something to tow my junk.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Got motobilt YJ rear stretch kit last night. Hoping this will help get my springs where they need to bed.






I'm also hoping I'll be able to fit my genright TJ tank under there now that the shackles are being relocated to the bumper. So now comes decision time:

Weld bumper straight to cross-member so I can keep the tabs that the gas tank bolts to and make my life easy or...

Cut the cross-member out, weld in the bumper and figure out how to make new tabs for the tank to bolt to.
 

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I think I would tack that Motobuilt bracket on the rear frame crossmember, and mock up the shackles to see what the angle looks like. I may be wrong, but it doesn't look like your shackle angle will be "correct" unless the Motobuilt braket is moved forward, or the front spring hangers are moved rearward.
 

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I looks too long now. I hate to say this, but it almost looks like it would be perfect with the shackle mounted directly under the body mount.
 

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dont you mean backward? the shackle looks like it would going up towards the rear versus a forward lean allowing a forward swing( aka flex)
The front spring hanger on the spring that solid mounted to the frame. If you moved it forward it would correct the shackle angle.

I kind of did this on my lj stretch. So it gave me some room to not run an expensive comp tank and if I wanted to run a 14 bolt in the back I could.
 

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The front spring hanger on the spring that solid mounted to the frame. If you moved it forward it would correct the shackle angle.

I kind of did this on my lj stretch. So it gave me some room to not run an expensive comp tank and if I wanted to run a 14 bolt in the back I could.
ah you mean if he keeps the stock position
 

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Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
Pulled rear shackles just to see where it wants to sit on its own weight with nothing in the way. Doesn't look too good considering I want to move everything another 4" rearward.


I could go hunting for some other springs with an offset centering pin. F150 are like 31/25, Dodge Dakota are 32/24, these chevys are 32/32 for reference. I think the Dakota spring would let me run the stock hanger location out back. I have a buddy running those in his YJ with a similar lift. He had to make a bastard pack out of two sets of Dakota springs to get the jeep to ride level.


The more I think about how much effort it will take to find the right leaf springs and pick the right mount, the more I think I want to link it out back.

Leafs:
Pros
cheap
simple to setup
already have bypasses for rear

Cons
No matter what I'm moving the stock hanger location back (I really want my axle farther back than it currently is).
I'll either have to ditch my tire carrier/hilift mount/antenna mount rear bumper and run the motobilt alternative or I'll have to ditch my TJ genright tank and use the stock rear hanger location.
axle wrap(I already bent a set of springs due to this)

Links:
Pros
Handles nice if setup right, no axle wrap
Can run TJ tank
Get to keep current bumper/tire carrier
Nice departure angle
Minister of Finance approved after asking me what I was doing staring at my jeep in the driveway for an hour.

Cons
Harder to setup properly
More expensive
I need some coilovers
Need to add truss to rear axle
Could take longer to get done


I really want this thing ready to go for KOH. I've got 96 days... or 13 weekends. There's stuff like christmas and thanksgiving and my wife's birthday where it's frowned upon to be working on your jeep instead of saying grace at the dinner table. hmmmm...
 

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What about some Waggy leaf springs? Get some new spring hangers and move them back a bit. Use the Ruffstuff +2 perches as well as that gives you some options for center pin placement.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Ruffstuff made my decision easy. They're having a sitewide 17% off sale. Pulled the trigger on their 14 bolt 4 link kit. I thought about trailing arms for a hot second, but getting everything to fit up right and not back-half the frame was going to be tough. I still have delusions of getting done before KOH. 95 days :flipoff2:

Going to be eating peanut butter and jelly sandwiches at lunch for the foreseeable future.

Talked to a few homies since I'm new at suspension geometry. Plan is to follow rule of 80%: Link separation at frame setup for 80% of link separation at axle, upper links to be 80% length of lowers. Did some measuring and it looks like everything will fit.


Now comes the hunt for coilovers. Anyone want to buy some old bypasses?:rolleyes:
 

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Ruffstuff made my decision easy. They're having a sitewide 17% off sale. Pulled the trigger on their 14 bolt 4 link kit. I thought about trailing arms for a hot second, but getting everything to fit up right and not back-half the frame was going to be tough. I still have delusions of getting done before KOH. 95 days :flipoff2:

Going to be eating peanut butter and jelly sandwiches at lunch for the foreseeable future.

Talked to a few homies since I'm new at suspension geometry. Plan is to follow rule of 80%: Link separation at frame setup for 80% of link separation at axle, upper links to be 80% length of lowers. Did some measuring and it looks like everything will fit.


Now comes the hunt for coilovers. Anyone want to buy some old bypasses?:rolleyes:
How much...? :D
 

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Discussion Starter #56
How much...? :D
I've got a set of 10" 2.5 kings and 14" 2.5 Fox bypasses.

Say $400 for the kings and $600 for the Fox? They're not pretty by any stretch, but they work.



I noticed you're in Jamul, I'll be down in Rancho San Diego visiting my parents for Christmas and can bring the shocks if you can wait that long.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
In other news, I decided to start cleaning up my tub and get to work on the cage while I wait for links. The tub looked like swiss cheese around where the old cage bolted in. You can kind of see some of the holes I had to fill in in the pic below(I freaking hate welding such think metal, but I think I'm getting better) What does everyone's frame to cage tie-ins look like?

Here's what I'm thinking:
 

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I am just solid mounting the tie ins. At this point is a bushing going to do much? At least that’s my thought.
 
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