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If you have rubber in your body mounts, you'll want the bushings in your cage tie-ins. Without them you're just moving what is actually acting as the body mount.
 

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I've got a set of 10" 2.5 kings and 14" 2.5 Fox bypasses.

Say $400 for the kings and $600 for the Fox? They're not pretty by any stretch, but they work.



I noticed you're in Jamul, I'll be down in Rancho San Diego visiting my parents for Christmas and can bring the shocks if you can wait that long.
Waiting isn't a problem. No functional damage (shaft pitting, leaking seals, bullet holes)?
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Waiting isn't a problem. No functional damage (shaft pitting, leaking seals, bullet holes)?
No issues that I have found. I haven't run the Fox bypasses yet- got them from a guy nearby who told me they were good to go. I have cycled them without an issue and didn't encounter any leaking.

The kings I ran for a year. They are in good working order.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Yup.

I had the Motobilt 4 link kit on my YJ. Worked extremely well and saved quite a bit of time.
That thing looks fun as hell.

Do you remember how long your lower links were?

I'm trying to figure out what's a good length that will ride nice and not hang up on everything. I was thinking 48", but after measuring it out, that length seems really long.
 

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That thing looks fun as hell.

Do you remember how long your lower links were?

I'm trying to figure out what's a good length that will ride nice and not hang up on everything. I was thinking 48", but after measuring it out, that length seems really long.
I honestly don't remember.

@PapaSmurf789 has the chassis now, maybe he can get a measurement.

Halfassed build thread here: https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/1646769-project-sick-breaking-d44-chromos.html
 

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That thing looks fun as hell.



Do you remember how long your lower links were?



I'm trying to figure out what's a good length that will ride nice and not hang up on everything. I was thinking 48", but after measuring it out, that length seems really long.


My links are 43.25” in the rear and 33.5” in the front with the Motobilt kit. Putting me at 116.5” WB.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
My links are 43.25” in the rear and 33.5” in the front with the Motobilt kit. Putting me at 116.5” WB.
Good info! I measured under the jeep last night and it seemed like ~34" lower links were going to be the way to go to hit 108" WB, but I was worried I was going to make my links too short. Looking at your numbers, it's probably just about right.
 

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PVC links are a great cheap way to mock up and get the numbers down pat.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Ruffstuff link kit showed up Friday! Was doing dad stuff all weekend, so didn't get to get started on it. The local metal shop is only open the exact same amount of time I'm at work 7:30 - 4:30, so I need to figure out when I can take some time off and pick up tubing for links and cage.

 

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Check out Wide Open Designs for AL links.
 

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I don't think I've got aluminum link money. I'll have to see what kind of deal I can get on coilovers
Your links will probably be pretty long. You will definitely need heavy wall tube or AL. In the long run the AL links aren't that much more. You can run AL lowers and steel uppers.
 

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Discussion Starter #76 (Edited)
Got my mounts and truss unboxed so I could start taking some measurements. Those heims are beefier than I thought they would be and I'm stoked.






Lower link frame brackets are still back-ordered, so waiting on those, but here's a rough guess at what my links will look like using the link calculator.







Figuring out stuff like Anti-squat, roll oversteer, etc. is WELL into the I Have No Idea What I'm Doing category. Hoping I'll get some time this weekend to start mocking stuff up and see if this all makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
I heard from a few people that my CG was low.. Moved it to something more realistic until I can measure this weekend and it changed everything dramatically. Upside is I think it made it easier to get the numbers I want. I updated the images in the post above with the new numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Did lots of measuring this weekend. I think everything's going to fit where the link calc wants them to. I did have to move my frame side lower mounts out a little farther than I wanted so I'm at 2* of oversteer.

Speaking of angles, let's talk pinion angles. Is it generally a good idea to more or less point the pinion at the t-case? This is where I was at on leafs:


I was thinking I would probably try to keep that the same going forward.

Still waiting on lower link brackets to show up, so I moved on to clearance-ing my sliders to clear the new cage frame tie-ins and pulling the axle back out.

1 step forward, 2 steps back :rolleyes:



 

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Yeah for links and CV right at it, unlike leafs where you point a couple of degrees lower to account for axle wrap.
 
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