What do an asian style rug from the 90s, a camshaft, a dirtbike and a toolbox have in common? :flipoff2:Got some help tig welding bungs on my links from a buddy. He's currently going to school to be a pipeliner, so when I called him on the phone to ask him how he wanted the tubes prepped, I had no idea what he was talking about when he said he wanted a "penny landing with a 45 bevel".
I sent him this back and he told me it was close enough :smokin::
He dropped by and picked up my upper links to bust out last night. Did 3 passes, the last one had a weave on top. He was stoked for the practice and I was stoked because my attempt would have been ugly as sin:
He's dropping by to pick up my lowers tonight and drop off the uppers. I'm the hold up in the production line because it takes me forever to bevel .25 wall tubing with a grinder.
The gong show continues.
Tig on the arms was a bit too spicy, so threads farther in the bung got warped.
Yep. It was one of those friend things, where I wanted to make sure they came out ok but didn't want to tell the guy what to do since he was helping me out. I think both of us were learning. If I was smart, I would have sent him Ruffstuff's little warning at the bottom of their product:That sucks. Pouring the coals to melt those dual filler rods started the gong show, all that extra filler cooling is what finished the deal. Metal moves more when it cools than it does when it heats up.
Live and learn... I'm not sure my attempt with a mig would have been much better(though I definitely would have waited for everything to cool before attempting to put the heims back in).*Tips to help prevent any seized or warped threads:
Correctly adjust welder settings and start your puddle on the tube. (Too much heat will warp the threads) Do not weld the tube adapter with the rod end threaded inside. (The two pieces cool at different rates and will lock them together) Wait until everything has completely cooled before threading your rod ends into the adapters
Eyeballoscope method: Unbolt the axle end and move the link up. See where it kisses. That's your limit. :flipoff2:I am not a mathematician and that answer would definitely require math.
Using my eyeballs though, I'll bet I can get 2 more inches.
Asian feller method: measure overall link length, measure rod end center to closest spot on frame, measure distance between link and frame at this spot. Overall length divided by kissing point length, plus 1 multiplied by distance between frame and link at kissing point = how much bump you have available. Subtract half an inch for safety since bent shit sucks.
Dammit. Worst part was my dumbed-down version was esplained wrong anyway. Looks like the link will kiss about 1/3 of the way down using the eyeballoscope, so multiply that clearance there by about 3. If those are 2" link tubes, I think you'll get 1.5" out of it. But I slept in my own bed with a wife that steals blankets, so don't trust me.