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Discussion Starter #122
Got some help tig welding bungs on my links from a buddy. He's currently going to school to be a pipeliner, so when I called him on the phone to ask him how he wanted the tubes prepped, I had no idea what he was talking about when he said he wanted a "penny landing with a 45 bevel".

I sent him this back and he told me it was close enough :smokin::


He dropped by and picked up my upper links to bust out last night. Did 3 passes, the last one had a weave on top. He was stoked for the practice and I was stoked because my attempt would have been ugly as sin:










He's dropping by to pick up my lowers tonight and drop off the uppers. I'm the hold up in the production line because it takes me forever to bevel .25 wall tubing with a grinder.
 

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Tell your buddy he better start practicing with a dime landing and walking the cup on the root and everything. Also, take that double filler rod technique and forget he ever knew it.:flipoff2:

Project is moving along nicely.
 

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Discussion Starter #124
Tell your buddy he better start practicing with a dime landing and walking the cup on the root and everything. Also, take that double filler rod technique and forget he ever knew it.:flipoff2:

Project is moving along nicely.
Will do! Thanks for the advice.
 

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Got some help tig welding bungs on my links from a buddy. He's currently going to school to be a pipeliner, so when I called him on the phone to ask him how he wanted the tubes prepped, I had no idea what he was talking about when he said he wanted a "penny landing with a 45 bevel".

I sent him this back and he told me it was close enough :smokin::


He dropped by and picked up my upper links to bust out last night. Did 3 passes, the last one had a weave on top. He was stoked for the practice and I was stoked because my attempt would have been ugly as sin:










He's dropping by to pick up my lowers tonight and drop off the uppers. I'm the hold up in the production line because it takes me forever to bevel .25 wall tubing with a grinder.
What do an asian style rug from the 90s, a camshaft, a dirtbike and a toolbox have in common? :flipoff2:

Get a 7" grinder. Moar sparks.
 

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Discussion Starter #128
The gong show continues.

Tig on the arms was a bit too spicy, so threads farther in the bung got warped. Local machine shop had right-hand tap to clean up one side but had to order left-hand tap for the other. Should be here next Tuesday. The next paragraph is going to be the Pirate4x4 version of a monkey fucking a football. If you want to see actual progress, skip that one. If you want to see what happens when stupidity gets multiplied by more stupidity then read on.

Warped threads was not the only exciting thing to happen to my new links. The buddy who welded them in also made the mistake of threading one of my left-hand threaded heims into a still-hot bung and by the time it got me, it was seized pretty far in there. Whatever, I pull out the pipe wrench and a cresent wrench and will have this thing out in... hnggggh.. hngeeergh... in.. hngggugh.. fawk, that's really in there.
Fine, lets add some leverage:

This is going grea... uh oh.

Ok, fine.. Lets throw some penetrating oil in there, come back in an hour and... no? Sonofa... So one thing lead to another and I ended up here(see if you can find all the methods of fuckery I employed in one pic, it's like where's waldo only not OSHA approved):

That still didn't work and the heim isn't budging. Last ditch effort was to flip it upside down, dump a ton of penetrating oil down the tube and let it sit that way for a day. We'll see what happens tonight.

Back on track, I did end up with an upper and a lower link that I could adjust, so I figured I'd mock them up, get my axle where I wanted it and start taking some measurements for my shock tower. I started by seeing where full bump would be if I didn't cut a hole in the tub to clear my truss:






Not great, not terrible.

After that I brought it up to where ride height would be based on that:


Rear is definitely sitting higher than I wanted.

To continue the exercise, I then jacked it up to full droop:


All in all everything is about 2" higher than I would like. I sent some pics to my cousin who had the best advice ever: "Just cut it, that thing sitting stinkbug is always going to bother you." I'm going to wait until I can get all my links chased next Tuesday, properly line up the axle and then cut the tub to clear my upper link mounts. Bonus for you guys, is down the road you get to have another gong show post where I attempt to make sheet metal do what I want it to do. :flipoff2:
 

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The gong show continues.

Tig on the arms was a bit too spicy, so threads farther in the bung got warped.

:eek: That sucks. Pouring the coals to melt those dual filler rods started the gong show, all that extra filler cooling is what finished the deal. Metal moves more when it cools than it does when it heats up.

Your cousin is right. That's some great advice he gave you.
 

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Discussion Starter #130 (Edited)
:eek: That sucks. Pouring the coals to melt those dual filler rods started the gong show, all that extra filler cooling is what finished the deal. Metal moves more when it cools than it does when it heats up.
Yep. It was one of those friend things, where I wanted to make sure they came out ok but didn't want to tell the guy what to do since he was helping me out. I think both of us were learning. If I was smart, I would have sent him Ruffstuff's little warning at the bottom of their product:
*Tips to help prevent any seized or warped threads:
Correctly adjust welder settings and start your puddle on the tube. (Too much heat will warp the threads) Do not weld the tube adapter with the rod end threaded inside. (The two pieces cool at different rates and will lock them together) Wait until everything has completely cooled before threading your rod ends into the adapters
Live and learn... I'm not sure my attempt with a mig would have been much better(though I definitely would have waited for everything to cool before attempting to put the heims back in).

Upside is my local machine shop chased the right-hand threads in 10 minutes and didn't charge me. I'm on the hook for the cost of the left-hand tap, so looking at about a $160 mistake. I figured that's not too bad considering I came into this with zero fab skills or knowledge.
 

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Before you hack a hole then do "bodywork".... How much more bump travel do you get before the links make friends with the frame?
 

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Discussion Starter #135
Before you hack a hole then do "bodywork".... How much more bump travel do you get before the links make friends with the frame?
I am not a mathematician and that answer would definitely require math.

Using my eyeballs though, I'll bet I can get 2 more inches.
 

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I am not a mathematician and that answer would definitely require math.

Using my eyeballs though, I'll bet I can get 2 more inches.
Eyeballoscope method: Unbolt the axle end and move the link up. See where it kisses. That's your limit. :flipoff2:

Asian feller method: measure overall link length, measure rod end center to closest spot on frame, measure distance between link and frame at this spot. Overall length divided by kissing point length, plus 1 multiplied by distance between frame and link at kissing point = how much bump you have available. Subtract half an inch for safety since bent shit sucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #138
Asian feller method: measure overall link length, measure rod end center to closest spot on frame, measure distance between link and frame at this spot. Overall length divided by kissing point length, plus 1 multiplied by distance between frame and link at kissing point = how much bump you have available. Subtract half an inch for safety since bent shit sucks.
 

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Dammit. Worst part was my dumbed-down version was esplained wrong anyway. Looks like the link will kiss about 1/3 of the way down using the eyeballoscope, so multiply that clearance there by about 3. If those are 2" link tubes, I think you'll get 1.5" out of it. But I slept in my own bed with a wife that steals blankets, so don't trust me.
 

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Discussion Starter #140
Got my links all chased... but that's not the most exciting part of this update, although it is only tech. There is also mystery and intrigue!

So originally I went down to my closest(not best, this is important) local machine shop and asked them to chase out both the right and left-hand threads in the bungs on my links. They only had the right hand tap at the time, so the chase those out for free while I'm standing there and the owner then asks me if I want him to order me a left-hand tap. So far financially, I'm up, so I say hell yes. Blah blah blah, one thing leads to another, right-hand threads were good, I bring links back later and they do my left-hand threads with my new tap while I'm not there. This story is not going where you think it is: they did a great job. Left-hand heims spin freely in my links, life is good. I pay the man some cash and load my links up in my super extreme heavy-duty Jetta wagon on my lunch break yesterday.

This is where it gets weird. I head back to work, park the car and spend another four hours at work. Leaving work, I hop in my car and get hit with what I can only describe as the smell of diesel exhaust on a cold day. My super extreme heavy-duty Jetta wagon is a gasser. I roll down the front windows and drive 10 minutes to my house. I feel a little light-headed, but whatever. Unloading the links, I take a whiff of one of the newly chased ends (don't say bunghole, don't say bunghole...) and yep! That's definitely where the smell is coming from. Not only that, but now I'm on a galactic voyage full of wonder and zero gravity while I'm walking to my garage. Whatever that is, one little whiff almost put me on my ass.

I drove the car to work this morning with the windows down and still felt like I was floating walking from the parking lot in to work.

What the hell did these guys put on there that they didn't do last time?
 
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