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Hmm... I might try to make something similar. Or maybe get the JK mount and modify it. It always looks prettier when it's cut out on someone else's plasma table rather than me 4 beers deep with an angle grinder fo some reason.
 

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Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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Discussion Starter · #145 ·

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I tried clicking on the links that you posted for the bump stops that drop into are bump mounts and it didn't work?

I'm guessing by your spring numbers that you're running 14s in the back? Maybe I'm Wrong I thought it was + 2 on the bottom of coil spring and -2 on the top coil spring but it looks like you're plus two on the bottom and -0 on the top? Unless they're 12 and I'm just way off :laughing:

Unlinking a Jeep front and back right now and trying to learn the most proper way to set up shocks. We are planning on running sixteens in the front just to get the extra travel until I read they don't like to see more than 9 inches of down travel which makes perfect sense. Anyway sorry for the rambling I was just curious about your rear shocks.
 

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Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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42,177 Posts
Discussion Starter · #149 · (Edited)
The rear shocks are 14s, I just copied the spring p/n’s in the order they were written on the invoice. The longer, stiffer spring is on the bottom. I will fix that.
 

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The rear shocks are 14s, I just copied the spring p/n’a in the order they were written on the invoice. The longer, stiffer spring is on the bottom. I will fix that.
Yes, I realize the longer stiffer one goes on the bottom :flipoff2:

Last time I messed with c/o's I thought the rule was the bottom spring was 2" longer than the shock travel and the top was 2" shorter. I feel like I've seen a lot of c/o's with a ton of threads showing or they have loose coils when it fully drops out. I like the "+2 on the bottom and +0 on the top" much better.
 

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Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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42,177 Posts
Discussion Starter · #151 ·
Yes, I realize the longer stiffer one goes on the bottom :flipoff2:

Last time I messed with c/o's I thought the rule was the bottom spring was 2" longer than the shock travel and the top was 2" shorter. I feel like I've seen a lot of c/o's with a ton of threads showing or they have loose coils when it fully drops out. I like the "+2 on the bottom and +0 on the top" much better.
That is how these are. My last jeep was -2 on top, +0 on the bottom with a helper spring. We had short coils because we were concerned about clearance between frame and tire. Less concerned this time. Probably would have reworked the white Jeep by now if I still had it.
 

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Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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42,177 Posts
Discussion Starter · #152 ·

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I posted this a few places and I’m answering all the questions here also because this is the actual build thread.

I was asked about this double adjuster on my lower length. Somebody thought it was revolutionary but synergy has been doing them since they started.

https://www.synergymfg.com/synergy-double-adjuster-tube-adapter.html



The Synergy long arm kit I put on my Wifes JKU uses those adjusters. I thought they were a brilliant idea. No more removing one end of the arm to adjust lengths. :smokin:
 

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Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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42,177 Posts
Discussion Starter · #154 ·
Time to order a rear driveshaft yoke. Have a 241OR case with the 1330 flange. Have a Carbon rear d60 and 38’s.

What u-joint should I build around? 1330? A friend of mine suggested 1350, but Im not sure if I can bolt that to the t-case output?

Is it dumb to run 1330 at case and 1350 at axle?
 

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1989 Jeep Cherokee
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No one makes a 1350 yoke for the transfer case? What about swapping it to a new 1300 series flange so you could move up to a 1350? I have one on my NP231 and figured I could use it when I swap to tons, and the next guy could run a 1310 or 1330.



This is what I was thinking of.

I don’t know enough to know if you’ll break the transfer case u joint.
 

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P.B.A.
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I personally like flanges anywhere I can if there’s enough wheelbase. Less broken parts when you waste a ujoint less spare parts to carry.
Super duty front shafts are 1350 cv I think with a flange.
 

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Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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42,177 Posts
Discussion Starter · #158 ·
I am running the stock vibration damper on the back of the 241. It turns out you can bolt at 1330 or 1350 to it. I bolted a 1350 to it. All u-joints on the vehicle were switched to 1350s. The shafts are in but I don’t have pictures. Jim at JE Reel said that the one 1330 on the front output of the transfer case wasn’t worth using, and upgraded that one to a 1350. Apparently the 1330 and the 1350 are about the same price. Both of my axles came with 1350 yokes.
 

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Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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42,177 Posts
Discussion Starter · #159 ·
Jeep is very close to a shakedown run. Then she comes apart for paint/powder. Then home.

I think what it really needs until then is just wiring and Air system plumbing for shakedown.
 

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1989 Jeep Cherokee
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I personally like flanges anywhere I can if there’s enough wheelbase. Less broken parts when you waste a ujoint less spare parts to carry.
Super duty front shafts are 1350 cv I think with a flange.
How are there less broken parts on a flange when the U hour goes out? Do they somehow never break ears? Seems like they’re not really stronger than using the u bolts on a non-CV.
 
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