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Discussion Starter #41
So I had a blast at KOH, barbie was super fun to cruise around in. Didn't run any rock trials, but was plenty fast enough for me out in the desert.

3 things were very apparent. I need to fix the exhaust ASAP, I need more permanent storage next to the front seats, and I don't have enough rear up travel.

My bumpstop cups I made in the rear worked great, but the stock cups I was trying to imitate had a bell shape at the bottom. I now know why. My cups cut the shit out of the bumps. They are shredded.



Obvious solution to not enough up travel and shitty bumps?



These are 3" bumps, might want to destroke later on. Got the spring pack all torn apart and started swapping out exhaust today. 4.0L TJ down pipe doesn't fit a 2.5, but I ordered up a 2.5 one at vatozone. Just going to keep the same exhaust manifold for now and see how it sounds after new exhaust. Going to mount bumps tomorrow.

Bought a variety of ammo cans at the surplus store and haven't picked which I want to be my center console storage yet. I got a tall .50, a fat .50, and I have normal .30s. I think I'm going to mount 2 .30s between the seats, as the fat .50 is too wide and the tall .50 is too, well, tall.

Also, very happy with my current pickup/trailer/rig setup. Camped out of my shell for KOH and had zero issues towing, got 10mpg round trip and was passing normal traffic up Tehachapi. If anything were heavier or I had a camper or something I'd definitely be looking to re-gear and add more power.



Some kids in the PolyGoats (old college club) drove out their stock TJ on 31s and thought it would be fun to drive in the mud pit. They made it through once, but were not as lucky the second time. They tried to get it back up and running for the drive home from all the drunkards in camp's advice, but they were in over their heads. I offered to tow them home and they drive my jeep. Thats what ended up happening, and she made it the whole 300 miles home no problem.

 

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Discussion Starter #42






I think I got a little ambitious with the 3" bumps. I should've listened to myself when I said "I like how it rides, just wish it got stiffer right at the end of the travel". I will probably run it as is for TDS, but am probably going to destroke to 1.5 or 1.25.

Jerp is going to exhaust shop on Tuesday. The TJ2.5 downpipe doesn't fit as nicely as I wanted, but Hank said he could work with it. I think the TJ oil pan is a little different shape that fits the downpipe better.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
First weekend of March. Peter and I will be out there for Synergy. This pile and his TJ. I think we'll be there Thursday night to Sunday morning. Stop by for a beverage!

I bought a standard 50cal ammo can today too so we'll see what I come up with mounting it between my seats.
 

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Nice build. I enjoyed reading this thread. BTW, I used to run that same D44 front under my YJ, and I still have the Yukon chromo inner shafts I had custom cut/splined if you are interested in some spares. I'll make you a hell of a deal. PM me if interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Nice build. I enjoyed reading this thread. BTW, I used to run that same D44 front under my YJ, and I still have the Yukon chromo inner shafts I had custom cut/splined if you are interested in some spares. I'll make you a hell of a deal. PM me if interested.
Thanks! I will be hitting you up soon, have some other junk to buy right now though....

Ended up cutting the bump out of the can. Wasn't too bad with a little air die grinder. Only nicked the top of one. Added pinch bolt on top.



Destroked to 1.25" still at 200psi. Much better feel. Doesn't hit just driving in a parking lot. Here it is with weight on it, maybe ~3" before bump?



Drug her out to TDS, had a good time. It was a long way to go to play in some nachos, but had a great time with some good friends. Worked a booth for Synergy, I think people liked how junky my thing was, much different than the rest of the show vehicles there.



It works well, hits the rear bumps when its flexing, but just sorta hits then makes the other side work. My top pinch bolts rub on the one side (the axle is a hair farther to the driver side), think I'm going to cut the bungs off the top of both sides and run a nice t bolt hose clamp.



My front shackles hit my frame, another reason I wish I would've drilled my shackle tubes flush with the bottom, or at least farther down.



Dented my new muffler on my new exhaust. Hank did a bitchin job as usual. It is still loud and a little ricey, but I think thats all the muffler/4cyl combo.



Bent a rear leaf. Big bummer. Talking with friends it probably had a lot to do with no mil wrap or spring clamps. I'm getting a replacement set, making sure they're clamped then running them for a while. We were setup across from the Deaver booth and Jeff said he could help me out with some good springs. I need to get more seat time in this before I decide to go that route though.

Bent:


Not Bent:


Put myself in a nacho I should not have been in. I got a lot more damage than I was expecting from TDS, but nothing some rockers can't fix.

 

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Discussion Starter #48
After we got back I decided I wanted an 8274. Traded a local wheeler my x8000i for this old girl. Already have her torn down and cleaned up. Brake rebuild, lower house seals, and new contactor box should be in before the weekend. Eventually I'd like to put on the 9.5XP motor or the one from Blackjack's 8.7AK build. Not sure which I want to go with, but I don't want to get crazy with the electrical. 1 battery and the 135a alternator is all I'm doing so probably only going to go with the 9.5XP. I want a strong, reliable, fast winch. I wheel with one full size that is extra "full size" and want to make him rethink his m12000.





 

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Discussion Starter #50
They are not. I can't find HP info on the 9.5ti motor, but did find its an odd 12 spline.

The 9.5XP and newer 8274-50 are 20 spline and just need a pinion gear to swap from the old keyed shaft. The 9.5XP is a 5HP motor, I really doubt I'll need more than that. Hell my 4 cyl probably only makes 80hp.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Back from the dead:
Mounted my 8274 and put it to work back around May. Sleeved the top 2 mounting bolts through the frame and ran the fairlead below the frame. Clearance up front is still pretty good and I like that the winch doesn't take up the whole grill. Wired it up with a contactor box as well.







Got to pull this big ol G wagon up a steepish hill after it decided to take a nap at the Syncrofest in Hollister Hills. Winch did great!



I decided to do some body work on the rear before installing some corners I got from Stout Fabrication. I never really liked the comp cut, but that was what I could afford for my stretch in the past. A coworker helped me graft a new body corner on and straightened what I could. It turned out meh, but whatever. Also filled some old holes and welded the rear fender well tops to the tub sides again.



Before:


After:


Finally got the corners and sliders mostly buttoned up. Had to trim the back at the radius for the tire to come back. My install could've been better, but its done now.







I still need to support the rear most bolt hole on the slider, as there isn't any body behind it. Probably a plate with a tube hitting the frame. Will also tie in the corner there as well.

So I wired up the reverse light and tried it out, nothing comes on. I tested the switch on the transmission and it is operating properly. The feed to the switch though is only 5.3v? If I send a full 12v on the other wire coming out of the transmission switch the LED reverse light comes on like it should. Why is it only getting 5.3v at the trans switch? I checked the fuses and everything looks good.
 

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So I wired up the reverse light and tried it out, nothing comes on. I tested the switch on the transmission and it is operating properly. The feed to the switch though is only 5.3v? If I send a full 12v on the other wire coming out of the transmission switch the LED reverse light comes on like it should. Why is it only getting 5.3v at the trans switch? I checked the fuses and everything looks good.
Most automotive sensors are 5V base, but not really on switches (could be wrong).

So, trace the source of power for that switch back to the harness and test. If 5V there, probably fine. If 12V, then try grounding the switch body with a wire so see if your ground sucks. Otherwise, you've got every gearhead's favorite task ahead of you: wiring.

Or, just use that 5.3V switch to power a relay. :D
 

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Awesome build!! I pretty much have your same jeep but in a pile of parts haha. Just wondering what size stretch are your corner guards?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #54
No idea, I gave Bryce @ Stout the distance of my axle centerline to the seam just before the rear corner and he determined stretch from there. They turned out great, I'm really happy with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I drug this ol girl out to Johnson Valley for a quick New Years trip. It wildly exceeded my expectations! I thought it'd explode on the first obstacle, turns out it waited for the second trail to break :flipoff2:

Ran Upper Big Johnson Thursday with few issues:






Thursday night hit Chocolate Thunder, buddy's big ol f250 diesel crawler on 42s got turtled on a big rock, I was in front of him so volunteered to get him off. Hooked up the strap and gave her hell. Not sure it needed quite that much throttle, but he got off the rock. Got back around after running the rest of the trail and I'd broken both rear shock shafts at the eyelets. Pulled the shock bodies and kept on truckin'.

Next morning ran Turkey Claw without issue, then ended up running both Johnsons. I decided to toss the keys to some ladies in our group and the Jeep's clutch wasn't happy by the time we got back to camp. I dgaf'd cause it'd worked so well and the clutch was pretty crappy feeling anyway. Turns out the CPS also died while restarting a bunch so it had to get winched onto the trailer. Oh well, I was planning to leave early the next morning anyway.

Damage report:
1 bad CPS
Rear springs moar bent
2 broken shock shafts
2 now useless shock eyelets

Overall, I was pretty happy with its showing. Everything could use improvement, but with exception of me not having a spare CPS it would've driven back onto the trailer on its own and been fine.

I already ordered some new rear springs and plan on making a rear traction bar. Theory is the shock shafts just broke due to axle wrap because the shock bolts are perpendicular to the axle tube. I want to link it, but don't want to take it out of commission quite yet.

I wish I was happier with the front end though. As seen in 3 wheeling pics the front of this thing works like garbage. It has maybe 5" of total "normal" travel up front with these particular leafs. By that I mean under normal conditions I have maybe 3" of uptravel and 2" of down. I can only hit full bump while wrecking my back smashing whoops in a bad way trying to keep up with prerunner trucks. I may try to pull some leaves out, but I think these are just the wrong springs for my application. Too heavy with too much arch for the weight of my jeep and what I expect. Very much considering linking the front first even though the rear blows too with only 3 3/4" of up travel. THe front shock mounts/bumps are solid and it has fresh square tube frame to work off of.

Here is a another pic dump:











 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
BDS 4" lift wagoneer springs.

Not bashing BDS, these things are made for a cast iron v8 and the rest of a FSJ sitting on top of them. Not a 4cyl, some tube, and a cj hood.

I'd originally set the mounts up for a stock waggy spring, but it was way too low SUA.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Installed new leafs, fixed shock shafts.

Figured out why this thing was running like garbage. Fuel pressure was up around 60-70 psi. After changing a fuel pressure regulator and a bunch of other shit, found the fuel return was being blocked in the tank. Turns out the fuel return line was hitting the bottom of the tank and dead heading it. Cut the return a little shorter and it runs much better now.

New clutch & flywheel:



Finally installed the barnes4x4 2" drop skid plate I've had for probably 2 years. I simply drilled and countersunk holes and bolted to the stock style Daystar poly trans mount I'd installed previously. Works fine. Was going to build a crossmember and use this only as a skid, but when I took it down to build the tube part there were 2 perfect marks from grease on the bushing of where the bolt holes needed to be. So I went for it. This is 1/4" grade 50 and tucks everything up better without major modifications needed.



Next built a traction bar. Its a combo of an old single motor mount we had lying around, a johnny joint, and a couple DDB bushings from Synergy. Also drilled/countersunk bolts to mount motor mount to crossmember. Just used some scrap tube we had at the shop. Seems to work well even without shocks. Some bind, but whatever, its to keep my leafs from bending and everything else from breaking.











Next is to mount up and wire/plumb some OBA stuff I've been collecting. Hopefully it can keep from destroying itself now.
 

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Keep an eye on that traction bar, it is amazing how much force they experience.

If you end up rebuilding it, you might try moving the front mounting point back to the edge of the skid plate, having the lower bar join the upper right at the threaded end, and adding some triangulation between bars.

I might be wrong, but I feel laying the axle mount back like that increases forces in the bars. Not much you can do about it now though, just run it.
 
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