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Master of none.
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Discussion Starter #182
For the dash to continue on in aluminum, it need mounting points, so a small flange was cut out, & fit to the dash bar, a-pillar, & door bars, just like the driver side, (obviously a little more practice on this one)
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Then tacked in place,
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Then the seat, shifter, & floor panels back to the rear steer pump were removed, & the dash was completely welded in,
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And that's about all I got done in 4 days,

Next on the plan is finish the roof bars while the interior is out, then try to finish up this tin work so I can move the sheet metal brake out of the way. but that'll all have to wait until next week,
 

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Dinkerdoodledoo
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This area behind the driver seat will likely house the air compressor & solenoids for the diff lockers, the passenger side is undecided, but at least there is a little real estate to be had later.

What controls are you using for those? I have to control an Axletech 600 t-case too.
 

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Dinkerdoodledoo
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9,378 Posts

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Master of none.
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3,639 Posts
Discussion Starter #187
And today, May 20th 2020 I feel I may have wasted my time documenting anything on this forum, guess I'm not a fan of the change,

I suppose I will post this update & see how things go from here,
Continuing on the project I figured I would finish up the tube work in the roof while everything else was still removed from the cab,
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Once fit & tacked into place, I went back to tin work, a little over a day & a half to finish up the forward foot areas, & outer firewall panels, so now the cab once again has a complete floor & firewall,
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Since there was still pieces of aluminum laying around everywhere, I threw something together to finish out the dash panel,
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After the chassis is powdercoated this panel & lower edge trim will rivet into the truck,

With all the dash pats in place I did a quick mock up to make sure everything was going to fit & clear,
So far so good,
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I finished out the week with designing a passenger seat mount, which has been cut out & cleaned up, but pics can wait until I get the welding done & actually bolt the seat in, possible next week,
I'm really trying to get to the point I can close the doors & be done with the interior for a bit,
 

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Premium Member
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29,440 Posts
for some reason, this last update you put up has the images showing at a "proper" size and not the small thumbnail of the earlier ones. give it a week, all the reasons this is better than FB and IG are still valid 😆 none of the content is lost

if you do head somewhere else, drop a link in here though!
 

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Master of none.
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3,639 Posts
Discussion Starter #189
for some reason, this last update you put up has the images showing at a "proper" size and not the small thumbnail of the earlier ones.
I had the option to thumbnail the images I put in this post,
the thumbnail pics must have been default for the change over.
I'm probably just being petty about change for no good reason, hell I wouldn't even use taptalk on my phone cause it "doesn't look like pirate"
 

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Premium Member
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I hated tapatalk and all the mobile versions, the dark mode of pirate (click the 3 dots in the upper right hand corner by your user icon) helps a bit.

apparently there are more changes getting rolled out over the next couple weeks to HOPEFULLY address the 20 posts per page and odd font sizes
 

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Rock Stacker
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1,496 Posts
You could recreate your build on ppirate4x4.com in about 15 min. I already did mine. Then it will be safe and documented for yourself and others.
 

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Premium Member
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241 Posts
i really hope you continue to document and share. i would be pretty pirate4x4.com if i didnt get to see this build to its conclusion. Either way, keep up the great work, you sir are an artist.
 

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Master of none.
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Discussion Starter #194
Pretty busy week this time around, I started off with a quick trip over to CA & picked up what will likely be the next camper project,
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That's two of these double drop trailers I have now, so I spent the better part of a day cleaning out a spot in the yard for it, I really need to get a few things out of here, (3 big trailers not counting the current crawler hauler & 2 Peterbilts definitely take up some room,

Anyway, once back in the normal groove at the shop, the passenger seat mount I started last week was finished, test fit, & kiddo approved, these will get powder coated, then riveted to the seat before mounting,

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Then for some odd reason I decided to mount the front fenders, I have been putting this off for a while now, for a couple reasons, one was they would be in the way for other work anyway, & the other was I did not know how I wanted to cut the opening to have the right amount of clearance, & look right, (hard to beat the look of a late 70's ford factory body styling)
I was really hoping to make the cut it in one clean shot so the part I have left over would make a good template for next time I have to do this job,

Half a roll of painters tape later & I ended up with this,
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Obviously at full bump,
In this pic you can see a small stand holding the front of the clip up under the grill,
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It was clear more body mounts was next on the to-do list,
 

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Master of none.
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3,639 Posts
Discussion Starter #195
Odds being pretty high this thing will get wrecked, I am trying to simplify repairs as much as possible, So for body mounting at the front of the chassis I used a couple tube clamps that I had in the "goody stash" I believe they are used for mounting/moving ballast weight on circle track cars, but they are aluminum, so the caps were removed, & used to build a steel lower half that I could weld to the chassis,
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Two of these clamps were built & after some careful measuring & placement, they were tacked to the front of the shock hoops,

The other aluminum half of those tube clamps were setup in the mill, drilled the threads out & counter sunk to basically become a second set of caps, A couple pieces of .75" aluminum bar was cut, & machined to both serve as the second part of the tube clamp, & bolt to the front fender using factory mounting holes,

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in the second pic of this post you can see both the cap, & home made half of the clamps have drilled/tapped holes, There will be a smaller link/bar, that will go from the main chassis, to one of those two threaded holes for more support/adjustment,

Hopefully in the event of a crash, if all of the main bracketry survives, & one strait section of 1.5" DOM will be all that is needed to get sheet metal hung back on the frontend,

Later on I will probably do some other type of clamp off this same tube that will mount the front pins for the hood.


Since I no longer needed a stand to hold the front clip up, I got it out of the way, jacked the front tires up just off the ground & cycled the steering to see if there was going to be any contact, or if I was going to have to cut the grill, (I probably spend as much time during the original layout/planning stage figuring front axle placement, as I did anything else trying to avoid cutting the grill if at all possible)
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If the truck ever sees any serious articulation there may be a little contact, but I think I can live with that,

On the other end the cab corner was already close, so I knew the fender would be too,
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Turned at a full 42* these Axletechs look like something is broken on them,
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Everything looks awesome at full bump, here it is roughly at ride height,
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Master of none.
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3,639 Posts
Discussion Starter #196
Since the front fender thing was reasonably successful, I figured I'd move right on to the next part I had been avoiding, & that was finishing out the back of the chassis, I wasn't sure what I wanted to do back there, I knew it would involve some pretty mundane machine work, but at least the list of requirements was short,
1, Continue the chassis to the length of the bed sides,
2, Tube inserts on the lower stringer tubes must be solid to block coolant flow
3, Proved enough room for rear sway bar mounting,

So a couple pieces of 2" cold roll were lopped off & run through the lathe, turning the OD down to fit inside the 2" x .120 lower chassis (stringer tube), these tubes will be used to carry coolant to & from the radiator & engine, so I couldn't just sleeve the tube splice by just using a smaller tube, the inserts have to stop coolant flow,
When machining these inserts just the ends were machined down, leaving about a .75" wide band/shoulder in the center, there a hole was drilled & tapped in each one, then one end was bored out to intersect this cross drilled hole,
During final assembly I will install bleeders in the threaded holes to bleed air out of the cooling system,

This is the insert slid into the lower chassis tube after machine work,
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Peeking down the bore to the cross trilled bleeder hole,
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Here you can see the other end of the solid insert was also bored out, obviously not the full depth, the bore stops about a 1/2 inch shy of the shoulder/bleeder hole,
The upper sleeves/inserts are just some heavy wall 1.75" tube machined down to fit inside the 2"x.188 upper chassis tubes, a small shoulder left to keep the from moving around, & lots of plug weld holes with a couple at each joint,
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The 4 cross tubes should provide a good place to attache a solid tow point,

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The next couple weeks will be busy prepping for Mountain Havoc, then making that trip, but if I don't tear up to much stuff there, I'll be right back on this, maybe even get a couple bed sides hung on it before the end of June.
 

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Master of none.
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3,639 Posts
Discussion Starter #198 (Edited)
It's been nearly a month since I made an update,
Prep for Mountain Havoc, & the event itself accounted for a couple weeks of that, but it was worth the effort, & paid off with an overall win.
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Once back home & everything cleaned up/put away, it was back to business on this project,
I got back in fab mode with a little machine work,


2"x1" cold roll drilled & tapped, then cut to fit the 2" main chassis tubes,
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These are the mounts for the rear sway bar bearings/blocks,
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All the parts for another set of sway bar arms were cut & a little machine work so the splined hub fit nice & snug,


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And another set of 7075 aluminum sway bar connecting links were built,


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The lower mounts are similar to what was built for the front end, with the exception of integrated tie down points,
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With all the mounts tacked up & the other parts installed, the suspension was cycled to check clearance, & that part was done until fine welding,
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Master of none.
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3,639 Posts
Discussion Starter #199
Mounting the bed sides seemed like the next best thing to work on, I'm not sure why, I'll only have to pull them off to continue with everything else on the rear part of the chassis, but at least the tin will be done I suppose,

Another set of tube clamps were whipped up, this time I stared with a set designed to fit 1.25" tube,
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Back when I built the tube work around the engine you may remember the 1.5" tube with compression fittings, this is where they come in,
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With the help of a stand a bed side was set in place, located, & a rear mount was drawn up & cut out, this mount actually bolts to the chassis & is designed as a sacrificial piece in the event the truck is crashed,
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These rear mounts have been bolted on less than 2 days & think I already have a better idea, so I may redo them in the near future, the chassis mount will stay the same, just refine the upper skin mounting, & make the overall bracket a bit less bulky, but they will do the job of holding the bed skin for now.

As for the skins themselves, they required cutting just like the front fenders to clear the tires,
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To finish off the bed skin mounts I still have to build some support rods, these will be threaded tubes with 5/16" heims on each one, One going from the new 1.25" billet mount down to the chassis to help the the 1.25" aluminum tube support the front of the skin, Another will go from the top of the rear bracket to the shock hoop to controll fore & aft movement, to keep the bottom for the skin from flopping around the will be a link & the front & rear lower corners, & most likely one in front of the wheel opening, all going in to the main chassis rail,

That will be where I pick up & continue on with the project next days off.
 

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Premium Member
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Congrats on the Havoc win!

Looking forward to your bed mounting. I’ve given up keeping bed skins on my brolite, could use some fresh ideas.
 
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