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Master of none.
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Discussion Starter #141
I notice you have regular nuts on your links. I would have thought you would put nylocks in that location. I realize this is not the finished assembly, but in the pic it doesn't look like there's enough room to put taller nuts. (The center axle mounts) Is that just an optical illusion about the room or do you have some kind of short lock-nuts?
It'll be snug, but they should fit,

If I run into an issue there are three other options,

1) Use "stover nuts" or a stake'd style lock nut,
2) Use a standard nut with thread locker, (lock-tite)
3) All link mounts holes are drilled to size (not lazer or plasma cut) so the washers in the pic could be removed & gain another 1/8" or so per side for a standard lock nut.
 

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So inspirational! Inspiring me to burn my rig that is :flipoff2:
 

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Then it was back to flaring tube, making 3 tubes exactly the right length was challenging, luckily these tubes are short enough I could put them in the lathe & machine the length to what I needed,
The steer lines are the same length, but the air line was just a touch longer & took some sneaking up on it to get the length I needed, just a touch long & the line would have a bow to it, short & it was like a banjo string & possibly not seated right, And it does not take being off by much either way.
Wouldn't it be easier to give yourself some adjust-ability with the long thread of the bulkhead fitting going through your bracket with a jam nut? That way you could install the JIC connection almost all the way then set the appropriate "tension" of each line by adjusting the stick out length of the bulkhead and set it with the jam nut.
 

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That pump around 1 cubic inch displacement is near the same as I had on the Hydro buggy. You’re going to have a lot more RPM so the fluid is going to be flying through the lines. I had #8 pressure and return. The o ring boss on the orbital can be upsized 6ORB-8JIC to increase flow. You can also drill out the ID of the adapter to increase flow since pressures are going to be 1/3 or less of rated fitting pressure.
At 6000 rpm with 1:1 pulleys that pump will flow 26 GPM which ideally uses a #12 or #16 hose. The orbitals are rated at 8 GPM with a max of 300 psi on the return.
The big PSC XR CBR pump without flow control is .69 cubic inch rev or 17.9 GPM at 6000 rpm at 1:1 and that has a #8 pressure and #12 suction. A #8 pressure is good for about 12GPM and a #12 return is good for 12GPM so you can see that the rules are broken for a little while during high revs. The pump flows twice of what the valve is rated for.
You can see that the industrial specs are thrown out the window when it comes to off-road applications. That’s also why a good cooler is needed to remove the heat from a restrictive system.
thanks for posting this, i had actually emailed PSC for some info on their unrestricted XR CBR pump trying to see if it would run 6<15gpm and the email i got back said "nope, can't hit either of those" :confused: :shaking:

for some reason i'm more inclined to believe you over them :rasta:
 

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What do you think about a flow control valve? (3 port & just dump excess flow back to tank)? I could get one with integrated relief, take advantage of the larger pump at lower RPM, at higher RPM where the pumps starts exceeding the rest of my components, limit the flow,
Or does that not work like I'm thinking?
that is what ZAG did and was happy with the results, it takes the pressure off the system at high rpm and frees up some power and heat, also keeps the flow through the steering more consistent

make sure that it is a priority flow control instead of a static split though. setting your main circuit at whatever the steering valve wants (8gpm or so) and just let it bypass everything else. then you can use a big bypass line and probably do just fine running all that excess into the cooler because your volume will typically be so high that it will cool most of it off pretty dang well.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/44382662-post207.html

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/44380474-post179.html

edit: sorry for being a month late :eek: didn't realize i was so far behind on this thread :rasta:
 

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thanks for posting this, i had actually emailed PSC for some info on their unrestricted XR CBR pump trying to see if it would run 6<15gpm and the email i got back said "nope, can't hit either of those" :confused: :shaking:

for some reason i'm more inclined to believe you over them :rasta:

PSC might have been assuming idle or cruising rpm.

Keep in mind I stated 6k with 1:1 pulleys, different ratios will speed up or slow down the pump.
If the LS crank pulley is 7.5 then you would be running a 6.5” pump pulley to keep pump rpm under 7k at 6k engine rpm.
11.3 cc per rev = .69 cubic inch x 6000 = 4140/231CU/Gal = 18GPM
They also have a 15cc CBR
 

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Discussion Starter #150
If you want to keep the beef of the bracket you could drill radially for a pointed set screw.
That would have been a good option, & may have simplified things a bit, but they’re done now,
 

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I really like the cleanliness of the link hose/hardline mounts. I have been thinking about the two fighting each other length wise as the link flexes and the lines expand and contract. One side of the lines should be able to slip or need a Z, S, or W in them so they can spring and not buckle or stretch.
 

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You would think this will work but it won't. Unless this is fool droop the hoses are to far away from the link pivot and are going to get pulled off when the link drops.
I can't see the pic you quoted, but I think I know which one. (Link to frame) It looks iffy, but he did say he did "after a lot of up and down on the rack." So I'm guessing he tested it.
 

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Discussion Starter #156
One side of the lines should be able to slip or need a Z, S, or W in them so they can spring and not buckle or stretch.
Im curious to see what happens myself, being an upper I doubt the link itself will see any flex, expansion/contraction of the lines would be the biggest concern, if they actually get warm enough to try & bow/buckle it would be pretty easy to take the bulkhead fittings out of one clamp & turn the mounting threads off of it, then it could float in the clamp.

You would think this will work but it won't. Unless this is full droop the hoses are to far away from the link pivot and are going to get pulled off when the link drops.
That pic is at full droop, it looks deceiving (not much downward angle) but that’s because it goes upward just as much at full compression.

226533AD-DD66-4AA9-9456-D63652E99C09.jpg
 

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Im curious to see what happens myself, being an upper I doubt the link itself will see any flex, expansion/contraction of the lines would be the biggest concern, if they actually get warm enough to try & bow/buckle it would be pretty easy to take the bulkhead fittings out of one clamp & turn the mounting threads off of it, then it could float in the clamp.



I wouldn't worry about this. I have a ghetto fab version of this clamp set up on my truck and no issues in 4 years of use.
 

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Master of none.
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Discussion Starter #158
Well I started the week out staying on task & in one direction by continuing with the shifter & building a place to mount it,

270.jpg

Not much to it, couple pieces of plate, some machine work, & a little welding, probably took as long to figure out exactly where I wanted the shifter than it did to build the mount,
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Turns out I was able to integrate one of the harness lap belt mounts into this part as well,
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Working on the shifter got me thinking about interior tin work, & I really wanted to get some aluminum chopped up to fit. Even cut & bent one peice for the passenger side floor panel, then I realized I needed door bars at least tacked in so I knew what to fit the aluminum around,

So the floor panels got put on hold again, & I drug out the laptop to play with door bar locations,
274.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #159
I bought Bendtech specifically to learn how to use it on this project, When I first figured out the basics it really took the wonder out of tube work for me, Kind of bummed me out, Since then I've decided I was just bitter I took so long to decide to learn it, Now it's just another tool to use,
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I feel that I did a fair job not wasting tube before BT, but I'm certain it has saved me a few feet on this project so far,

Back to door bars, the way I had cut the floor out of the cab at the rockers/door sill, I had two options for door bars, move them just inside the A & B pillars, or cut more out of the floor so the cab could still be removed with the door bars tying into the A/B-pillar nodes at the floor, It was pretty obvious what i needed to do, 5 min with a zip disk & the cab got about a pound lighter,
One thing about it, it's getting easier to duplicate this cab when I have to chop up another one to replace it, as the new door sill cut follows an existing panel seam,

When I finally made a decision, the door bars went quick,
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I'm not going to lie, it's a pickle sucker to get in & out of, but I'm convinced it's a technique thing, I just have to find the right one & practice it,

The original plan was to plate the entire floor with .063" aluminum, but I decided a couple little places behind the seats might be better off with rigid 16ga steel panels, So those were cut, cleaned, & bent

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Then welded in,
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This area behind the driver seat will likely house the air compressor & solenoids for the diff lockers, the passenger side is undecided, but at least there is a little real estate to be had later.
 

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Discussion Starter #160 (Edited)
Now I can finally get to the aluminum floor panels,,,,,Almost,

I had to work on the mounting tabs first,

I have used these tabs before & bought a whole box of them for this project, they are handy, but I have a couple issues with them,
First, they have a 1/4" hole in them, so either thread them to 5/16" (which is a huge fastener for an .125" thick tab)
Or attach 1/4" threads to them somehow, (J-nut, thin-sert, etc.)

I chose the ole weld a nut on technique,
284.jpg

I'm really surprised how many people make note of this particular detail, to oakie for the build maybe?

Second issue is they are crooked, I'm not sure if the stamped out blanks are crooked, or if something happens when they get bent to shape, either way it drives me nuts every time I hold one up to a piece of tube,
I've welded plenty of them on, & more than likely no one would ever know,
But for this project I took a few minutes & modified an old soft jaw for my mill vise, now it will grip the tab both rigidly & consistently,
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A carbide cutter the diameter of the tube each tab will go on makes short work of truing up the tab, & making a nicer fit to the tube itself,
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Now I have lots of threaded, strait tabs, & with that much work invested in them, there was no way I was MIG welding them to the chassis if I didn't have to, But my TIG machine is on the opposite end of the shop, I have a torch, & ground that will reach no problem, but my pedal cord was about 6 ft shy of reaching, so I burned up a few hours rearranging the shop, (mostly just under one bench), moved the welder & bottle from one end of the bench to the other, & now I can reach both shop bays with the TIG machine.

It' got plenty of use over there this weekend too.
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