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Discussion Starter #161
As posted earlier I had already built the center/front aluminum panel under the throttle pedal, I really like how it fits the main chassis rails inside the cab with the edges that rest on the main rails get the outermost 1/4" bent down slightly
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I had other plans on how I was going to build the rest of the floor, but that section turned out so good I changed my mind & decided to continue that design down the length of the chassis inside the cab,

The next section, (middle) butts up to that first piece that had already been built, using the second hole pattern to hold the front edge down,
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The next seam in the floor will be where the mid & rear sections meet, at this point there is the row of tabs (seen in the last post), so both panels will share those tabs/bolts, for this I dug out the old bead/flange roller from "Project Pete" & run the back edge of the mid section though it,
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Should make a clean overlapping seam,

And the mid section is roughed in,
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The rear section was next, mostly just making sure the bent edges matched the mid section, the holes were drilled in the correct location, & paying attention to fitting around the tubes at the rear for the cab,
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Master of none.
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Discussion Starter #162 (Edited)
With all the panels fit, I needed more tabs to finish mounting them.
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More tabs, more milling,
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The tabs with long nuts are used along the main chassis rails, I'll be able to bolt rubber dip clamps or other tabs from the bottom side for holding wiring, cables etc. in place, & do so without having to pull a nut of bolt under the truck before removing the floor panel,

More tab welding,
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Then I had to transfer all the seat, seat belt & pump mounting holes to the rear section & drill them,
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Next days off I will removed the center section & it will get some reinforcement channels riveted to it for more support under that big area, That should about do it for that part, maybe I'll get back to working on the outside sections as well, see what squirrel I decide to chase next weekend,

I'll get another pile of tabs welded & machined, then go from there.
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Love this build! Definitely one of the best builds going on Pirate right now and really appreciate you taking the time to share your pics as well as the written dialog. The written part is what makes the forum platform so much better than social media. Looking at pictures is nice, but you can find an overload of pictures of pretty welds and shiny parts all over the social media. The ability to get insight into the builder's mindset and have a back and forth discussion composed of real sentences that is easily referenced in the future is what makes it great!
 

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This week I continued with plumbing, but it was more than just bending & flaring tube to keep it interesting, Last week I had received & order of tube nuts & sleeves, so I did finish all the lines I currently had ready for them, then build a couple tabs for fittings & got them tacked to the chassis, however I did not get any pics, really nothing special anyway,

Last days off I had drawn up a link clamp design, which I took along with a chunk of 3/4" aluminum plate, to the water jet shop & had some blanks cut,
Since that shop is as far out of town (the opposite direction) as mine, Allison & I could maintain our social distancing, & still get our parts,
View attachment 2972450

The edges got cleaned up, then all of the parts were setup in a way the clamping bolt holes could be machined & threaded,

Once bolts could be put in the parts .050" shims were made so the bolts could be tightened without completely closing the gap on the clamps, then they were setup on the mill again, this time the link bore was machined to size,
Here is test fitting a piece of 2.5" material in the bore,
View attachment 2972452

I bored the parts in pairs, once the bores were finished, both pairs went back in the mill to drill & tap for bulk head fittings, one pair is setup for #8 (front) the other pair #6 (rear)
To finish the milling work, each clamp was setup for the air locker line, these ones I had to countersink since a #3 bulkhead is not long enough to pass through 3/4" material & still attach a hose/fitting,
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what did you use to clean up the cut surface?

this build is over the top awesome.
 

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The tabs with long nuts are used along the main chassis rails, I'll be able to bolt rubber dip clamps or other tabs from the bottom side for holding wiring, cables etc. in place, & do so without having to pull a nut of bolt under the truck before removing the floor panel, ]
I was wondering and great idea!
 

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Discussion Starter #167
WOW!

Great work! Thank you for keeping us up to speed on this build. Your updates are always appreciated.
Thanks!

Love this build! Definitely one of the best builds going on Pirate right now and really appreciate you taking the time to share your pics as well as the written dialog. The written part is what makes the forum platform so much better than social media. Looking at pictures is nice, but you can find an overload of pictures of pretty welds and shiny parts all over the social media. The ability to get insight into the builder's mindset and have a back and forth discussion composed of real sentences that is easily referenced in the future is what makes it great!
I agree, it's really to bad that not many people care about what is behind, or goes into a build, most just want to look at pics, & watch youtube videos of some dumb ass destroying stuff & getting paid for it,



what did you use to clean up the cut surface?.
Depends on the tube, on the strait ones I used the lathe, on the bent ones I just used a flat file,
 

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Thanks!



I agree, it's really to bad that not many people care about what is behind, or goes into a build, most just want to look at pics, & watch youtube videos of some dumb ass destroying stuff & getting paid for it,





Depends on the tube, on the strait ones I used the lathe, on the bent ones I just used a flat file,
I was asking about the waterjet aluminum clamps you made.
 

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Discussion Starter #169
I was asking about the waterjet aluminum clamps you made.
Ah!

Combination of carbide tipped cutter in a wood router. (One with a bearing on the end)
Then switched to a flapper wheel, also in the router,

In the small center radius I just cleaned it up with a small sanding mandrel in a dremel tool.
 

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4X4 HACK
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You are an artist. I cant wait to see this thing be put to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #171
Well Friday after work I sat down & welded nuts to the rest of the tabs I had, then run all but a handful of them through the mill, I it's a good thing I did, cause I continued with tin work & ended up using quite a few of them,

Here's a boring video of nut installation, I believe anyone can see it even if you're not am FB user.

https://www.facebook.com/leroy.latham.902/videos/928338934257460/

Then it was back to tin work, after measuring, cutting, fitting, a little bending, & then some riveting, the driver & passenger floor pans were done,

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I was specifically asked to make a video on the actual rivet process, so I just as well post that here as well,

https://www.facebook.com/leroy.latham.902/videos/930411190716901/

As I said in the video, the rivets in the channel were a installed a little differently, but the basic process is the same,

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Discussion Starter #172
With the majority of the flooring close to completion, I figured I better try to button up the front steer hard lines,
I had ordered an inline heat sink cooler, which showed up prior to the weekend, The same style cooler, half this size seems to do the job on the buggy, so I'm sure it will suffice on this project too,
I figured this stretch of plumbing would be easy, but when all said & done, I have a good 2 days invested in it,

A half a degree in a bend makes a pretty big difference when dealing with the long sections,
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I actually had to use a compression fitting in the cooler the get that short dog leg tube in there, (it may get changed out to a stainless piece before the project is finished)
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Part of the reason it takes so long to do something like these lines is building every bracket or tab,

(Don't mind the grungy hands & rust scum on my thumb nail, it's part of my COVID19 protection system)
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I know "it's just a tab" or "could have saved a lot of time buying or building something less elaborate" I'm sure I get a little carried away, but like I said, this project is about the build, & nearly every piece gets this kind of attention,
Like for example, the clamp that holds/supports this long section,
I've got a couple hours figuring out & building this little guy,

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Discussion Starter #173
To me that couple hours on one part is worth it when everything fits as planned,
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So now once the pump, reservoir, & pressure relief are in place, I can plumb them up to these bulk heads,

Back inside the cab, the floor pans fit pretty good, I even got a little start on the rear section before running out of time this week, I'll likely pick back up there after work monday,

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I doubt you have time for you tube builds, but check out Project Binky if you want to some people call excessively over engineered brackets. They have been working 5 years on that build, you are way ahead
 

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I doubt you have time for you tube builds, but check out Project Binky if you want to some people call excessively over engineered brackets. They have been working 5 years on that build, you are way ahead
While I love to watch the Binky boys, I don't think they have anything over Leroy. (The alternator drive might be in a class of its own, but I really don't like it)

If Leroy had an accent and came up with some smart allicky remarks, he could be a video star. Ha-ha.

All kidding aside, what rivets are you using for the .063" al.
 

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Part of the reason it takes so long to do something like these lines is building every bracket or tab,

I know "it's just a tab" or "could have saved a lot of time buying or building something less elaborate" I'm sure I get a little carried away, but like I said, this project is about the build, & nearly every piece gets this kind of attention,
Like for example, the clamp that holds/supports this long section,
I've got a couple hours figuring out & building this little guy,

That's the reason why your builds are bad ass. It's awesome to take that much pride in your work.
 

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Discussion Starter #177
I doubt you have time for you tube builds, but check out Project Binky
I checked out a bit of a couple episodes, cool project & a couple talented chaps for sure,
Is it just me are do they seem a bit bitter toward Americans & the SAE measuring system? :laughing:

All kidding aside, what rivets are you using for the .063" al.
These are 3/16 x 5/16 aluminum rivets for 2 parts of .063, there are a couple places that are 3 parts of .063, or one part .063 to one part .125, for those places I have a box of 3/16 x 3/8.

If Leroy had an accent and came up with some smart allicky remarks, he could be a video star. Ha-ha.
I need someone interested in doing the video & editing work, Allison has been at the shop enough lately, maybe I'll see if she wants to videoing, that might be kind of fun,

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Discussion Starter #178
So on my Friday after work I continued with the rear portion of the tin work, A few hours late the 3 rear panels were bolted in & together, once complete the rear portion will likely rivet to whats left of the original cab floor.
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The next day I spent a good part of the day laying out the dash panel, placing gauges, switches, etc. Then I decided it was pointless to try & design anything without sitting in the driver seat, so all the floor, seat, shifter etc was reinstalled, but before bolting the seat back in I got the riser blocks back in the mill & lightened them up a little bit,
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I had almost talked myself into just cutting the mounts off the seat & starting over, but the blocks just offer so much adjustability if the seat needs to move around at a later date.
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Discussion Starter #179 (Edited)
With the seat back in place I worked on the dash panel design more, basically until I was bored with it,

So I just moved on to the top side of the dash, & more tin work,
A quick template got the shape I needed, then cut the aluminum, followed by a little work with my "kneenglish wheel" & I had a 2 piece dash panel,
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I way over did the tabs on this part, but lots of fasteners is almost kind of a theme inside the truck, (try to not overkill, but obviously more than needed) the dash is a little overkill,
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But once the panels are on it doesn't look to bad,
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The front edge got a little work to just start wrapping the dash bar,
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And the seam in the center overlaps in an attempt to keep it clean looking,
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Discussion Starter #180 (Edited)
And back to the dash panel again, for real this time, it will be home for the switch panel, 5 gauges, a digital display/dash, & the main fuse/ relay box,

When I finally decided how to lay it out, I got it cut out, cleaned up, & made sure the parts were going to fit,

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Had to do a little grinding & fitting in the corners before going in the chassis,
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Then it was tacked in place,
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The dash stops about 3/4 the distance across, & will continue from there in aluminum to the other A-pillar,

Even though the plan is to tie this steel portion into the aluminum section, it still just looked like it needed a little support in this bottom corner that's just hanging out there,
An old mirror bracket from the Peterbilt project looked like it had potential,
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Finally a little project that didn't take all day,
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