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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. My 88 Pathfinder died on me after a weekend bog so I've decided to attempt to build a monster out of it. Currently is stock except a 3" body lift, turned up torsion bars, has 31" wrangler mtrs, and has the roof cut off

I have 2 ways I could go with this build. One way is a little bit more complicated and expensive but is what I really want.

-350 sbc v8 on propane.
-sm465 4spd
-np205 to np241 doubler
-79 Ford dana60 hp front
-aam11.5 rear
-42" v tread ag tires or 44" super swampers
-4 link front and rear with grand Cherokee v8 coils.
-cross over steering

Or the more feasible and pocket book friendly way.

-Same motor and tranny
-np205
-Chevy dana44 front
-14 bolt semi floater rear
-35" or so tires
-leaf spring front. Stock 4 link rear with few inch lift to match front.
-stock Chevy truck steering

I have most of the parts for both ways and might have to just start building and see where it takes me.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
1st before I start the build I just want to say damn I love these little pathfinders. I never thought I'd own one. A few years ago a buddy messaged me saying he had a pathfinder for sale and wanted to trade me for a truck I had. The truck being dead and me needing a vehicle good on gas I took he deal. I'm a Chevy guy but man did I enjoy that pathfinder. The wife did too. Sadly the pathfinder is long gone but I found this one for sale by accident and had to get it.

Onto the build. 1st thing to do was to start hacking away and get the old one out. I'm making a new rad support to compensate for the extra motor size so the sawzall became my friend.

And before it got too cold out I decided to paint the motor. I'm in Alberta Canada and have an unheated garage. So paint now or 6 months from now.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Mocked up my doubler. The np205 output is a 32 spline and then np241 input comes in 2 splines; 27 and 32. Mine is a 27.

And since the wheelbase is very short (I might lengthen it) I wanted to mock up the driveline too before I begin. With the distributor an inch from the firewall and the crank at the rad support, the rear of the second tcase comes a little past the back of the door but that's with the tcases not splined together. Leaving 20 some of inches for driveshaft. A little short, but no different than a jeep I suppose, and if budget permits (doubtful) I'd like to get a slip yolk eliminator kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Luckily for me a buddy blew up his 32 spline np241 (wrecked his front output) so I got the input gear for a few bucks. Which is good because I'm on a severe budget and for the most part just using parts I've collected over the years and building everything myself. I'm a fabricator by trade (I mainly build decorative railings but also do all sorts of odd brackets, shelves and whatnot) so making the doubler adapter and any brackets won't be an issue, I have full access to welders and a milling machine at work after hours. But I won't worry about that until I know for sure if that's gonna be the route I'm taking.

So far that's as far as I've gotten. Been busy the last few weeks at work and with fixing some of my other vehicles (I have too many) but hopefully will be yanking the old motor out soon.

Found some old pics of my 1st pathfinder. I named it Stinky. My new pathfinder was already named Mudtallica when I bought it. Not sure if I'm gonna stick with it or not.
 

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Oh Jesus Tits....
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that doubler setup is gonna leave you with an 8 inch driveshaft....lol
 

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that doubler setup is gonna leave you with an 8 inch driveshaft....lol
I commented on that same problem to his reply in the other current thread.

Here's what I suggest. Scrap that entire trans/t-case/doubler combination. The truck is too short for that. You will end up having to spend money on a slip yoke eliminator for that 241 and will still not have enough room to do a CV and slip-member drive shaft.

Find you a NV3500 that you could install a crawl box on the back of and re-use that 241 close-coupled with a slip-yoke eliminator. You will cut over a foot of length out of that drive line. I think Klune discontinued theirs but someone must be making them.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
To CaptainMorgan: thanks. I've spent many years collecting and trading just so I can build something.

To the guys complaining about my doubler. Thank you for your input, it is appreciated. However, In my posts I already stated a few things you mentioned;

1: the doubler may or may not happen.
2: I cannot afford any other parts. It's being built with what I have. Nothing more. No different tranny or Klune box.
3: driveshaft is about 20" with the doubler, not 8.
4: I did mention that I may extent the wheel base. If I did go the doubler and 4link route I have to build a whole new suspension anyways so I'd move the rear back a foot or so. So if have atleast a 32" driveshaft. If I bring the back of the tcase down a bit and don't jack the trick to the sky then that'll be fine.

The only reason I wanted the doubler was to get a drivers side drop for the Ford d60. But if I put in my dana44 I will not need the doubler.

Anyways; simple update here. Been working on a broken daily driver the last little while so I haven't done much with the pathfinder. I did manage to take out the stupid wooden "back window" and rearrange the toolbox to make room for the propane tank and possibly the rad. The toolbox now makes a nice seat, still leaves room for a cage behind the driver seat and opens 3/4s of the way.

And also in my box of tcase parts from buddy's broken t case I found the front fixed output yolk and it splines onto the rear output of the 241. I might see about taking the output shaft to work and seeing if the machinist can drill and tap the end of the shaft so I can bolt the yolk to it.
 

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No one here is complaining, we're just trying to help. The rear suspension WD21 can be easily built to be extremely flexible and a really short drive shaft will certainly bring some headaches, just ask any Jeep guy with a lifted CJ/YJ/TJ. Ford used a 205 for some time that can be adapted to your transmission and work with a driver's drop axle. They are still out there and fairly cheap as I see them for sale every so often.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm sorry, complain was a poor choice of wording. More like criticize. I do appreciate the help and ideas but I won't be getting any new parts, my whole budget for the truck is about $500 and I need that for steel for fabbing.

And I have a lifted yj, so I know all about the short driveshaft headaches. It doesn't matter anyways, I'm more than likely not going that way anyways. I'm starting to lean towards my second option using my dana44 front and a single t-case.

UPDATE:

Finally got time to continue my dismantle. Got the driveline completely out. One thing I noticed that might cause an issue is the shifter placement on the Chevy tranny is a lot farther forward than the Nissan shifter. Might have to move the motor back into the firewall or make some kind of custom shifter. Not sure which, too early to tell.
 

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I'm sorry, complain was a poor choice of wording. More like criticize. I do appreciate the help and ideas but I won't be getting any new parts, my whole budget for the truck is about $500 and I need that for steel for fabbing.

And I have a lifted yj, so I know all about the short driveshaft headaches. It doesn't matter anyways, I'm more than likely not going that way anyways. I'm starting to lean towards my second option using my dana44 front and a single t-case.

UPDATE:

Finally got time to continue my dismantle. Got the driveline completely out. One thing I noticed that might cause an issue is the shifter placement on the Chevy tranny is a lot farther forward than the Nissan shifter. Might have to move the motor back into the firewall or make some kind of custom shifter. Not sure which, too early to tell.
A remote floor shifter linkage would be your friend:

 

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Discussion Starter #13
I was wondering if I could do something like that for a shifter. Might have to try it now. Thanks.


Update:

Set the 350 and tranny in. It posed quite difficult due to the fact my engine hoist was crapping out. It was my dad's and it's older than I am. length wise it fits better than planned. Width wise is just as tight as I expected. Looks like the conventional long tube headers I have are more than likely out of the question. I think either straight down block huggers, out the hood, or out the wheel wells are my options. Another problem is the front diff and the oil pan wanting to occupy the same space. I'll have to remove the front diff so I'll be able to drop the motor further. I'm doing an SAS anyways but was hoping to do 1 at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Went and got from storage my propane pig (that's right, gonna run propane) and my Dana44. It's a lot wider than I though, which makes me happy. More tire out of the wheel well = more mud a flyin. Might even put my 4" dually spacers on just to make it that much wider.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
No major updates. Finally got 10 minutes of free time and put the propane pig in the box. It doesn't fit the way I want it but whatever. I wanted it facing backwards so you could open the tailgate for easy access to fill the tank. Instead it will be facing forwards.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Little cosmetic update. Polished up and started painting my valve covers and air cleaner cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So life got in the way and I've been rather busy with other things. Finally got back at it with the pathfinder a little bit. Front differential center section has been removed to allow the motor to drop down farther. The hood barely misses the air cleaner and the oil pan almost hits the steering (but that will be gone once SASed anyways). Tonight I started making my wiring harness. I'm bypassing the stock harness and making my own basic harness from scratch...after all, a carbed Chevy needs about 7 wires to functionally run.
 

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Hey,
How did you make out with your pathy?
Im planning to LS mine with a 700r4 and a 205 and d60 4 link front.

Love the back half chop!
 
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