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you really going to bolt a Fruitliner suspension onto a Pete ?!? :eek: :shaking:

just kidding ! :D



too late now but i also have a complete and mostly aluminum Pete "Air Leaf" left over (cheap... need to clear my yard :p)
 

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Rooster, better tell the bloke with the F700 about the air leaf, it would beat the hell out of building an experimental deal like he is about to do!
With your suspension, he would have all the right parts in all the right places.
And I just set it up for you on his thread!
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Curious to know what the asking price is/was on the 71 Pete?
Rumor has it that truck could be picked up for less than 4k, but I've never talked directly to the guy, I heard the price from his friend, Also got the phone number, but never called to even see if I could get ahold of him,
By the time I decided to pull the trigger on a big truck I had also decided go with the narrow nose, butterfly hood,
If you want the number I'll see if I can dig it up & PM it to you.


you really going to bolt a Fruitliner suspension onto a Pete ?!? :eek: :shaking:

just kidding ! :D


Yup, :laughing:
I had reservations at first, Being new to the HDT build world I'm not sure about all the "rules"
But apperently swapping anything on a Peterbilt that's not Peterbilt, is a fair bit less acceptable than an SBC in a 32 ford coupe, :D

Price is what made this swap acceptable.

All BS aside, I would have loved to have the Peterbilt air leaf setup, This deal just worked out with having the gearing I needed too.

Maybe I'll have to grinde the "Airliner" casting off the mounts, That's what the Kenworth guys do to make the Pete air leaf work on their trucks, :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Got a few small updates from the last couple days,
Rear diff is back, & really clean.


Speaking of clean, I did a little more stripping & steam cleaning on the back section of the frame, that way it would be fairly clean for the installation of the new diff & suspension,


While in the cab prepping for some repairs I found this thing tucked up in the visor area,


The origianal wig-wag,
After a little tweaking & straitening I got it to move freely & tested it, turns out it works, I'll be keeping that in there.

After I finally decided I had done enough cleaning, I move the truck over closer to the TIG & got busy fixing a few things,
First was this mess,

A section of the hood rests here against the cowl, & over the years has rubbed that flange area paper thin & as you can see also wore a hole right through the cowl into the cab.
After cutting the entire area out, I cut a new piece & welded it in,

After a little filing & sanding here is what I ended up with,



Pretty much the same story on the top side of the cowl, where the center section of the hood bolts, stress & vibration caused a small section to fall out, so it was repaired the same way.


 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
All of you are probably tired of seeing aluminum goobered togeather & sanded down, but that's about all I've got done, so here's another spot, passenger side, lower section of the cowl,
Worn Paper thin & cracked,


New piece cut & tacked in place,


Welded


Ready for body work.


And here is the Passenger side of the cowl, repaired for the most part.



While cleaning last week I found the front spring hanger on the passenger side was broken,


So since the truck was pulled in with that side close to the welder I dropped the pin & spring out,


Then prepped the broken area, & used the pin to hold everything while I tacked it in place,


After welding.


After clean up
 

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Discussion Starter #29
And finally back together,


Also yesterday I got the clutch adjusted so now the clutch brake actually works,

Tomorrow the plan is fix all the cab issues on the drivers side, (pretty much the same as posted above from the passenger side)
Then get started on swapping bear claw style latches it the doors to replace the old flat door striker latches that are currently in there.
 

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nice work !!! :smokin:

i wish i could weld aluminum as good as you do (my stuff usually looked like bird shit :rolleyes:) ... i guess thats why i like rivets :laughing:


could you fab "wear blocks" onto the hood like the newer Petes ?
maybe use some high density plastic (crawler skidplate?!?) block on the cab and a ss rub plate on the inside of the hood ?

that is actually what i`m thinking to do with the butterfly hood on my DiamondT;
with the air ride body i do have a constant movement between cab and hood so this would solve the wear/noise/corrosion problem
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
i wish i could weld aluminum as good as you do (my stuff usually looked like bird shit :rolleyes:) ... i guess thats why i like rivets :laughing:
Hands down, rivets look cooler,

could you fab "wear blocks" onto the hood like the newer Petes ?
maybe use some high density plastic (crawler skidplate?!?) block on the cab and a ss rub plate on the inside of the hood ?
I would emagine that would work good,
Most of the wear & tear on mine is from the hood panels not being fastend properly, resulting in the panels moving & wearing on the wrong places,
I'm going to make sure they are fastened properly this time & see how that works.



So after turning the truck around I only had one broke/missing piece on the drivers side, I got that welded in,


Then it was on to bigger potatoes,
It appears that the drivers side has taken quite a hit at one time,
The thresh hold, & cab corner skin have both been replaced, One of the rear cab spars has been replaced with something a little different style & the B-pillar was both tweeked & had another peice goobered onto the back of it,

Here is the weld at the front of the thresh hold, cracked & falling appart,


Here it is after grinding it out & rewelding the entire corner,


The B-pillar was a little more involved, origionally it was a single extruded piece of aluminum, it looks like the flange the skin rivets to must have been damaged, & rather than replace the whole part, they cut off the flange & welded a peice of channel to replace the flange,
I wish they would have taken more care to do the job, turnes out the B-pillar was still bent, & the new "flange" was not set out far enough for the corner skin to rest in the proper place, in short, the back of the drives door stuck out farther than the corner of the cab,
Oh & they used little headed 3/16 pop rivets to put the new corner skin on,

Anyway, after removing most of the rivets you can see the mess they had going on,


Here the bottom of the B-pillar is sperated from the thresh hold, & flange,


Then the B-pillar was pulled back & in, & welded in place,


Here is the end result after shiming the corner skin out with some 1/8" aluminum flat bar between the skin & the flange,


This is replacing the rivets on the back side of the cab corner,
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Next up was the doors,
The drivers door is pretty much junk, I knew that when I bought the truck so I put the feelers out for another door shortly after getting the truck home,
Fortunately my dad drug one home for me that is in pretty decent shap,

Here is what they look like inside,


Like most vehicles of this era this Peterbilt used the flat bar type door latch, not only do they kind of suck, they are also pretty pricey for replacements if you can find them.

So it was time to upgrade to a "bear claw" style latch.
Here is the factory latch,



I had to do a fair amount of cutting, notching, & drilling, to get the new latches to fit, but they look like they should work,

This little hole is where the new latches needed to go, that piece taking up realestate in that area is the external door latch, so I had to work around that.


After figuring where I wanted the latches I marked & drilled the mounting holes.


Then marked & drilled holes for the striker bolt to pass through.


Then cut, grind, file,


And repeat until everything fit.





The second door was easy once the first was done. Linkage should be pretty simple, & an adjustable strinker bolt in the B-pillar should pretty much finish up that part, but I'm out of time this week,

I'm hoping to have the aluminum work on the cab done by mid month, a freind is going to help with the body work & he's planning on getting started about that time.
 

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man you dont waste any time.

my wig wag doesnt have the low air sign, just a red arrow jobby. when i first put air in my truck (via CO2 tank) i was pulling on it like 'fawk, the air horn doesnt work. booo!'

then i saw the thing fall as i bled it all back down and it donned on me what they were for. :shaking: :homer:
 

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And finally back together,
Nice work. I'm suprised you were able to weld the hanger back together like that. Had a similar vintage Diamond Reo at a previous job that had an aluminum hanger just like that. Pete must have used better castings because I could not get that thing to weld for shit. Full of porosity and impurities. Ended up building a new one out of a bunch of 1" steel plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Please oh Please keep that lil visor on this ol school truck!!!!
The visor is cracked in the center, but it will be repaired & put back on the truck.
man you dont waste any time.
I'll be watching your build aswell Mike, the old KWs are pretty cool rigs aswell.

Nice work. I'm suprised you were able to weld the hanger back together like that. Had a similar vintage Diamond Reo at a previous job that had an aluminum hanger just like that. Pete must have used better castings because I could not get that thing to weld for shit. Full of porosity and impurities. Ended up building a new one out of a bunch of 1" steel plate.
This was deffinately not very good quality material, It took pleanty of grinding, preheating, welding, & regrinding, to get it hooked in good,
I'll be keeping an eye on this part, if I run accross another one some where I'm going to snag it up & have it for a spare.
 
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