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Discussion Starter #42
So to start this days off I finished bolting in the door latches & built the striker bolts, but no pics, I'll wait til I get the linkage inside the doors done then post those pics,

Pics I do have, the visor, back on after repairing the crack in the center, I just put it back on the truck so it would be out of the way for now,


Then I turned the truck around in the shop & got real busy, Pulled the drive line, brake lines, backed off the brakes & removed about 28 5/8 bolts.
Then rolled the old diff out,


I was going to mount the front suspension mount in the same loacation as the front spring mounts, 2 of the holes even matched, so getting it square would be simple,


But then I decided to slide the rear diff back about as far as I could, so the buggy is approximately 15 ft long, (front of front tire to back of rear tire)
& this truck only has 10 ft of frame rail behind the cab, with the axle in the stock location I would have had about 7 ft of bed in front of the axle & 8 ft behind it,
Putting the air bags all the way to the back of the frame I gained about a foot of wheel base,
Here is the hanger in it's new location,


Rather than move the cross member that was already there, (doesn't really fit the new hangers anyhow) I decided to remove it, along with the rear most crossmember, & build new,

Crossmembers removed,



Using 1/4 plate & 3x6 1/4 wall rectangular tubing, I put together a new crossmember that matches the new suspension hangers,


Both hangers & member bolted in place,


To get the diff around to the shop I had to bring out the big guns,


After a little re rigging


Drove it right into place,
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
Now if you look at the pic I posted earlier of the rear diff, when it was still orange, you can see the springs are bolted to the back side of the cast hanger, & this is how I measured everything to put it on the truck.
While doing some searching I noticed in all the pics I came accrossed, the springs go through the hanger & bolt to the front side,
I could not find a single pic with the springs mounted like they were on mine when I got it, Only thing I can figure is someone had reassembled it wrong at some point in it's life,

Long story short, I put it together the way it is supposed to be, but I lost 3" of the wheel base I was trying to gain.

One of the pieces I did not get with the air ride set up was the pan hard bar mount, I could have went to the wrecking yard & got one, but I chose to build one instead,
I marked where it needed to go, & drilled a couple holes,



Then machined some spacers & cut out a frame plate & gussets,


Bolted it in place so I could tack it together,


Then simply welded it all together,


All bolted in place



The rear crossmember is just made from several pieces of 1/4" plate, bolted & welded together,



Bags in place

 

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This is awesome! I'd like to have an old Pete on day, no where near as good with the fab side of things though, so I'd have to just leave it mostly as purchased. :laughing:
 

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darn ... you work fast :eek:
.... and clean !! ; i love the attention to details :smokin:

with the short frame overhang it kinda screams for a tilt bed ... is that what your doing ?!?


btw
why are you using box tubing at the frame brace ? ... are you not allowing frame twist for axle articulation ?
 

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Discussion Starter #53 (Edited)
Did you consider stretching the frame?

My dad made that suggestions, & would probably be the best option, I'm not sure what the cost would be to take something like that on,
The frame being short kind of caught me by suprize, I'm just kind of rolling with it, with the stuff I have,
If the wheel base does in fact need to be longer, I think a frame stretch will be the only answer

I like the details like the radiused gussets on the panhard mount. Something you'd ordinarily see on a custom buggy. :smokin:
A CNC plas table makes those parts easy, since my dads is only a few blocks away I figure it might as well get used as much as possible,

I'm tooled up pretty good myself, but I am lucky not only does dad have a PlasmaCam, he also has a nice onld Bridgport mill, & a Lablond lathe that will swing about 18"
So any pics you see on here of machining or CNC cutting, that's at his shop.

not worried about front axle weights moving the rear back?
I think it's going to have a pretty fat butt, I really hope the front don't get to light,

what you got planned for a bed and hitches?
Currently I am thinking flatbed, 11 ft long on the flat & a 3 or 4 ft dove tail,
Hithces, probably a heavy built reciever in the dove tail reinforce to the back of the frame, I may put a goose neck ball in the bed, I don't have that style trailer, but there have been times that I had access to one & may have been better off to use one, but didn't have a rig to tow it, this way I'll have that option,
When I get stared on the bed I may try to keep it fairly easy to remove,
then it would be pretty easy to slap a 5th wheel on it & pull a big trailer, if need be.

darn ... you work fast :eek:
.... and clean !! ; i love the attention to details :smokin:
Coming from you, thats a pretty big compliment,

I'm not sure about the fast part, it took me 3 days to get that diff in there, I'm pretty sure a good 1 of those days was thinking about it :laughing:

with the short frame overhang it kinda screams for a tilt bed ... is that what your doing ?!?
It would be a good idea, since the truck has most of the wet kit already on it,
Plus a couple guys doing scrap here in town have a roll off setup sitting in thier yard, I think it's for the construction type bin/dumpster, but might be made to work,
I'll look into that a bit, the only down side I see is the added hight on the back of the truck, but I can always go throw a tape on thier setup & see what I'd be working with.

btw
why are you using box tubing at the frame brace ? ... are you not allowing frame twist for axle articulation ?
The tubing I used since I had it around, The one it replaced was a pretty beefy aluminum piece, I'll post some pics of it, I'm not sure how much fex it allowed, although, it was bolted together, so that may have let it move around a bit more,
To be honest, I didn't even consider frame flex, I guess I'm used to working on junk with rigid frames, :laughing:


SEXAY!

love the fab work here and being able to watch an old rig get a proper resurrection.. nice job!
Thanks for the props, hopefully I can bring a little glory back to the old girl.

Today I went to Reno & picked up a new front fender, then after I got home I replaced the mangled up back cab corner,
But it looks like pics will have to wait until photobucket gets done with thier maintenace.

Thanks to everyone for the compliments
 

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Discussion Starter #54
When I picked this truck up I mentioned that the drivers front fender was in pretty poor shape, after digging further into it, the passenger side had been replaced & was aluminum,
I searched & searched for information on what fenders could be used to replace the damaged steel one on this truck, there really was not a lot of info about it since most people doing restorations reuse the factory steel fenders, After measureing a few differnt things I found that one could use either a fender from a 359 model truck, or a 379 model, the difference being the 379 fenders are approximatly an inch narrower in width,
The wider 359 fenders are in fact basically an aluminum replica of the origonal steel units on this truck, the only difference being a mounting bracket inside that has to be adapted to the new fender.

While perusing ebay a couple weeks ago I ran accross a pair of 379 fenders for sale, ad said brand new pair of 379 front fenders, & the buy it now price was about as much as one new after market fender,
(by the way, at this time I still did not know what fender was used on the passenger side of the truck) so I bought the pair & figured I would make them work, even if they wind up being narrower,
Well about a week later they showed up, I opend the box & knew I'd been had, There were 2 fenders in there, one was a left & one was a right, & that's where the "pair" part of this storey stops.

The left one was a bare fender, about .080 thick,
The right, in primer, stamped out of maybe .050 thick aluminum, & was an inch narrower,
The light duty fender did match the one that had been replaced on the truck, but they were both RH fenders,
Luckily the thicker LH fender had a faded PACCAR sticker on it with a part number, so I called the Peterbilt dealership & found out it was in fact for a 359 model truck, So I had them order the matching RH fender, all said & done, the new fender from Peterbilt was not much more money than on after market one,

So yesterday I ran to Reno & Picked up the new fender,
Now after weeks of messing around, I have a maching pair of brand new front fenders,


After I got home from Reno & had a half a day left I got started on the crunched portion of the back panel on the cab.

Probably damaged the same time as the corner & thresh hold, but they just banged it (sort of flat) & rivited it back in place,



Other than the lower portion of that side, the rest of the panel is realy pretty clean, so I just marked out the bad area & cut it out



Once it was out of the way I found more welding to do,



Then cleaned everything up & prepped for the new panel,


On the angled side of the new panel I used an edge crimper & made a lip to fit under the origonal panel,



Test fit
 

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looks nice, its a shame you didnt have some one to buck some rivits with you
 

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Discussion Starter #57
are you not allowing frame twist for axle articulation ?
Curious to this as well. We all know these frames are meant to flex for a reason. Bracing looks a little substantial.
Here is the crossmember that was replaced,


Looks to be about 3/8 web material,

If the new part limits frame flex, I'm not sure by how much,
I do know these bigger trucks get pretty helpless if the diff is open & there is not much articulation.
 

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i hear you on not used to twisting frames; i also used to build very rigid high performance dune buggies and always liked the saying "you can tune suspensions and shocks, but you cant tune frame flex"

but as you mentioned trucks are fairly helpless without frame twist
flex is actually the wrong word; the big C-channel hardly flex at all ; its more of a twisting motion
that is the reason why usually the frame crossmembers are also made of large C- or U- channel pieces; they hold the frame rail webbings parallel but allow a twisting motion.
box (or round) tubing on the other hand resists that motion; it basically needs to flex to allow twist (so its acting like a torsion spring or big sway bar)

i dont know how much that single one box tubing will hurt frame twist (axle articulation), but you could possible cut out the bottom (turn it into a U-channel) to salvage the nice work you did on it (love your welds :smokin:)
 

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IIRC the crossmember design and spacing changes depending on the intended use of the truck - tractors are fairly "loose" but frames specd for dump boxes etc. are usually designed with more torsional rigidity with crossmembers that are similar to that.

In its original application with a spring susp it would have needed all the flex it could get but on a flatbed application with air spring I would think that the frame will not need to be working as "hard". I have seen Mack rear crossmembers that are similar but with an open bottom, if you are concerned about it, maybe cut the side or bottom out of it (two hole saw holes at the end and cuts to make a slot across) but this may just make it feel a lot "tighter"...

Maybe I'm out to lunch... :laughing:
 

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In its original application with a spring susp it would have needed all the flex it could get but on a flatbed application with air spring I would think that the frame will not need to be working as "hard".
I'd think the opposite. Most air setups I've seen aren't meant to flex much at all compaired to leaves.
 
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