Pirate 4x4 banner

901 - 920 of 1241 Posts

·
NERD
Joined
·
8,593 Posts
Discussion Starter #902
LS2 block? Killer. Gonna be FAST. :smokin:
You know it will need your tuning AKA FullStack Motorsports :smokin: Starting to save for 2.5" 3 tube bypasses now :D


Steering is just about done, needs final welded and painted. Took it for a tiny test drive and it's awesome - in one direction :laughing:



Video of the issue, this was just before I put the tires on and drove. Hard to steer to the left. I am not sure what happened, maybe one of the balls fell out or a piece of metal is in the path, I may have to take apart the box again.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,339 Posts
looks like a cool set up... I would guess if there is no bind with out the box hooked up then it would be in the box it self
 

·
NERD
Joined
·
8,593 Posts
Discussion Starter #904
looks like a cool set up... I would guess if there is no bind with out the box hooked up then it would be in the box it self
Yeah consensus seems to be it's the servo. Pretty simple system so that's probably the culprit. I'll take the pitman arm off and see if it's still hard to turn. If it is, I'll yank off the box for the third time and crack it open once more. :shaking:
 

·
NERD
Joined
·
8,593 Posts
Discussion Starter #906
YAY! :shaking: I love doing things over and over
Yup!!!

Took the pitman arm off, something is blocking the flow. All lines are clear. Pitman arm was centered. Back to tearing the box apart. Oh well. Hopefully I didn't tear anything up. :homer:
 

·
NERD
Joined
·
8,593 Posts
Discussion Starter #908
I fully support pissing off neighbors. Especially in HOA's.
:laughing: thanks, glad I'm not alone! I moved away from that place a couple years ago and now have my own house. Much better. Our HOA leaves me alone and I tend to keep my ridiculous driveway shenanigans prior to midnight now. At the old place, I did have someone tell me I couldn't use my grinder at 7:30pm one night...because his kid was "reading" and I was distracting him. Go to the fucking library then. :flipoff2: :laughing:
 

·
NERD
Joined
·
8,593 Posts
Discussion Starter #911 (Edited)
As some of you know from IG, I've been slinging together a new link mount system. I've also been modeling the Jeep in it's current state, as much as possible. I'll probably market these link systems in the future. It would be great to buy a yellow star for the forum :smokin: This would be a kit for anyone wanting to have a front stretch, new box location, rear stretch, 7-9" of uptravel front and rear, and excellent link geometry for go-fast wheeling.

This has my new track bar and front frame as well as the steering box mount and the hydro ram mount. More to come, I need to actually design the axle housings that will maybe/possibly replace these Eaton/mockup housings.

Stay tuned!







 

·
NERD
Joined
·
8,593 Posts
Discussion Starter #913
Bolts onto the existing skid holes for alignment and additional support, welds on after. Very stout. Still missing crossmembers, supports, and a number of boxing gussets.

If there was enough interest, I could have them bolt in place. I am not very fond of that, though. The way this is intended to be abused, I wouldn't trust bolts after thrashing on it.
 

·
NERD
Joined
·
8,593 Posts
Discussion Starter #914
Anyone still reading this? Guess I'll update anyway! I post updates regularly on IG, DukeEngineeringSolutions.

I'll start with saying I sold the LS2 block to get something more complete. The price different between GenIII and GenIV stuff is still too high. I did find a complete 6L80E on here for $500 but the remaining pieces would put the swap well above $6k. I want to do it for $3K or less. If I really feel I need more than 400 crank HP, I'll go find a 6.0 block and LS3 heads and intake.

For now, I found this 2002 LM7 complete with 4L60E, harness, computer, and all accessories. Dirty, but complete and a good deal. My cousin's husband is handing me an L33 aluminum block 5.3 that needs 1 new piston. I'll be cleaning that up and using most of the parts off the LM7 to make a complete HO 5.3. Adding a decent cam and possibly LS6 heads. We'll see where it takes me.

Swap will take place this fall and winter. I 3D printed the alignment ring and jig to compare the Chevy bolt pattern to Dana 300. 1 bolt hole does not line up. I will make this work, I think I can mill the hole out enough to get the clamping pressure and rotational shear strength I need. If anyone wants the STL or SolidWorks file for the ring, PM me. It's spot on.
 

Attachments

·
NERD
Joined
·
8,593 Posts
Discussion Starter #915 (Edited)
Onto the next project for the Jeep - deleting the fuel tank filler and finally cutting the rear corners to match the front. This is overdue by nearly two years. Whoops.

I cut out the fuel cell filler plate and it fit like a glove. I can grab pics of this, it's on IG. Laser cut and it slipped right into the Rokmen corner armor that I purchased almost 7+ years ago. If anyone needs the file, PM me.

The rear of the corners look funky to me but they're also growing on me. EDIT: I also bought a 3M wrap for the Jeep. Once I paint over the current raw steel and prep the fiberglass and tub, it will be going on.
 

Attachments

·
NERD
Joined
·
8,593 Posts
Discussion Starter #917
The next alteration for summer wheeling was the front track bar. I've had some death wobble and bump steer since I installed the new Eaton axles. I lined up the angles and distances when I was building it the first time, but somehow the track bar came out 3/4" shorter. This has a decent effect on handling. The mount was also very long, so it stuck out of the frame a bit. I wouldn't be able to install a sway bar in the front and the mount was flexing. Eventually it would rip off and tear the frame I had built, so the Hypertherm 65 came out and I cut it all off.

Hurleygo3 had a similar issue with his track bar ripping off, so that was the final straw to changing the design. The new one is much closer to the frame center line and much stronger. It also has the corrected geometry and is accurate to within 1/4 degree. I had to bend the drag link a bit to get it to clear the new axle side mount. All of this was designed in SolidWorks and laser cut.

Once I lower the suspension 2-3" the angles will be much shallower and the steering will be happier. I'll do this when I drop in the new drivetrain.

Steering is still coming along, I think I have it mostly dialed in. Even with just the new track bar setup and PSC pump, it steers much better. But the DE hydro assist is what I'm after, and it's AWESOME when it's working.
 

Attachments

·
NERD
Joined
·
8,593 Posts
Discussion Starter #918
Also, some of you may notice that all my tires have matching tread now :flipoff2: I have 5 good Falkens finally. Good tires. I have the MT01 "sticky not sticky" compound.

Next up was the sway bars. The rear antirock was actually a TJ front antirock. It worked well for what it was and what I was doing at the time (crawling), but there's no way it would hold up to Ultra4 style abuse and go-fast. I want to race this Jeep locally next year and that requires some better sway bars with higher spring rates. The Currie Antirock spring rates are somewhere between 35 and 75 depending on where you mount the links on the arms. This is with 14" or 15" arms, center to center.

I am now using 17" to 19" arms (adjustable) with Coleman Racing sway bars. I use 1.25" bars with 1" ID to get a spring rate between 125 and 150, adjustable. I can go a little higher if I play with the distance from the arms. I'm planning to make the rear a little higher than the front, to allow a little bit of oversteer. I prefer this to sliding off the track with understeer.

Links will be 1" 6061 with 1/2" heims, double shear at the axle, double shear on the front arms, working on a double shear setup for the rear arms once I decide on length and dial in the rate.
 

Attachments

·
NERD
Joined
·
8,593 Posts
Discussion Starter #919
Lastly, which brings us up to date, I wanted trail doors. I like the Savvy doors, but don't like the price. I also wanted to experiment with the strength of the new materials with my 3D printer. I have some Carbon Fiber Nylon from 3DXTech that has proven to be extremely strong.

I designed a half door setup with 3D printable hinges and levers with 1/8" aluminum skids and 1" square tube supports and stiffners. Cable actuated through a couple of hot rod door locks. I'm still getting these dialed in and printing the last of the blocks I need to space the locks into place, but the profile of the door and the concept has come out nice. Doors swing easy and the hinges seem to be pretty strong. The hinges seen here are just PLA and they're plenty beefy. I don't think I'll have any issues until I run into a rock. These are printed in a manner that aligns the grain of the layer perpendicular with the force, so the layers do not separate upon impact.

I have a buddy with a 1" square die, I'll be bending these soon. I'll also be designing a new subwoofer box, might use a small 8" woofer that's deep instead of the shallow 10" I have now. Once that's complete and I have the wrap in place, it will be a new Jeep.

Center console is getting cut down and replaced this winter. Have some suspension seats to throw in as well. I'll be adding cup holders :)D) and blacking out the rest of the interior. Suspension could possibly get the revamp I posted earlier. Definitely getting 2" hydro bumps but maybe 2.5" 14" Fox bypasses. We'll see.

I am hoping this will tidy up the Jeep for the time being and I will call it pretty much "done" after this. :rolleyes:
 

Attachments

·
NERD
Joined
·
8,593 Posts
Discussion Starter #920 (Edited)
No. :flipoff2:
Good :flipoff2:

One more, bought the girlfriend a TJ. She's been learning to wrench and loves to wheel. EDIT: She also stole my soft top. Rude.
 

Attachments

901 - 920 of 1241 Posts
Top