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NERD
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Discussion Starter #1,121
I’m not gonna make!!
Kev will be down there sucking Tony off
:laughing: and I think Johnny’s going!!
:laughing: badass I'll hit them up for a beer. Can't wait to see what high dollar rig Kev brought down. Maybe someone won't steal his entire setup again this year. :eek:
 

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677 Posts
Fresh start up and nothing leaked, Myself, I'd be terrified.:flipoff2: But I know my luck.
That's just awesome, you must have good focus. Jeep looks good.
 

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NERD
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8,593 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,123
Fresh start up and nothing leaked, Myself, I'd be terrified.:flipoff2: But I know my luck.
That's just awesome, you must have good focus. Jeep looks good.
Thanks bud. I’m waiting for something to blow or leak....besides the output of the D300. Being 30 years old I’m not that surprised though.

Tried to chop down the rear driveline today and went to tack weld it....no weld gas. Girlfriends TJ broke down on the way home too so I was fixing that for a bit. Damn TPS was dirty on the 2.5L. Always something :laughing:

Hoping to get the majority of the remaining big work done between today and tomorrow. Gonna throw some simple bump cans in the back until I cut off the frame.
 

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You mentioned,
I'll be wrapping up the smaller stuff and chopping down the driveshaft over the next few days. I need a 2.0" front driveshaft diameter to clear everything and Tom Woods is the only one confident enough to make a 2" driveshaft that's 45" long. So I'll be calling them soon.
What diameter was everyone else wanting to build for that length?
 

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NERD
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8,593 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,125
You mentioned,


What diameter was everyone else wanting to build for that length?
2.5”. I don’t think it would fit without rubbing. I’m going to check today anyway because it’s a significant strength and accuracy gain.
 

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NERD
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8,593 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,126
Little shit takes FOREVER.

Dash is wired. All of it. Fans are controlled by PCM now with a SPDT rocker switch for override. Need to design and 3D printed two adapters for the dash to mount my switch panel and iPad. Slowly put things together that were lingering like misc nuts and bolts, the cowl, and mounting the pcm and fuse block.

Went with Tom Woods for the shafts. Ordered on a Tuesday and had them here today, Friday. They were very helpful and made them exactly to order. No issues at all. Highly recommend them. I haven’t used them in 10 years and they’re still great to work with. I went with 1310 CVs and 1350 slip yoke at the axle end, all Spicer non servicables. I’m very happy with them and the whole experience.

Had a small interference issue with the bellhousing. I don’t know how this didn’t come up before. Perhaps the suspension settled slightly and I didn’t notice. Either way, I had to chop a little off the bellhousing where the bottom cover bolts up. Lost one of the bottom cover bolt holes. Oh well. Small sacrifice for a one piece shaft. Picture makes it look much worse than it actually is. All good now. Front has 5” uptravel in these pics since I lowered everything down. I will run it at 5” and see if I can bottom it out as hard as the rear.

Reusing the previous front shock crossmember but this time putting in some stubby tube connectors that interlock. Huge time saver and this will protect the front end if I run out of talent.

Tomorrow I’m designing the new rear axle upper link mounts and cutting them on the CNC plasma. Should be fairly easy but I’ve said that before!
 

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NERD
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Discussion Starter #1,127
More progress from this weekend. I didn't get done as much as I wanted on the Jeep but I did get the majority of the remaining hard work done. Rear axle upper control arm mounts were about 4" tall (first picture).

I messed up 4 times before putting the entire rear link bridge in CAD. I didn't make this bridge, just hacked the top off a few years ago. Each face is not square to the other. I was also angling the mounts 10 degrees by pointing them to the UCA mount on the frame. Add to that the 45 degree and 59 degree angled sides on the link bridge and you have a very complicated setup. After the 4th fawk up I put down everything and spent 2 hours just reverse engineering this damn bridge. Designed it all in Solidworks, got it setup for the cnc plasma, and double checked everything twice. Cut it out and VOILA! Fit perfectly. It looks easy to do but NONE of these corners are 90° and the links may have to be shortened an inch :shaking: If so, I may just say fawk it and order some 7075 because these have already been sleeved once. WOD has these links for $135 each and that's enticing :laughing:

Still have to notch the lower part of the frame for the links, fab the new front shock crossmember, and straighten the front axle tube slightly. If I get time I'll also move the 2.0 Fox bumps to the rear. Still need to swap the steering pump on the Raptor and do maintenance on the trailer. It's not as tight as the last two years but still have some work to do.
 

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How much vertical separation do you have in the rear links now between uppers and lowers? What are the angles at ride height in relation to the horizontal axis from front to back?
 

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NERD
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Discussion Starter #1,129
How much vertical separation do you have in the rear links now between uppers and lowers? What are the angles at ride height in relation to the horizontal axis from front to back?
5.5" off centerline of axle. Lower link mounts are roughly 2.5" below axle centerline, so that makes about 8" separation at the axle now.

I have the 4link calc numbers at home, I'll get them posted up for all to see the difference. I was surprised.
 

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NERD
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8,593 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,130
Here's the new 4 link calc numbers. First is before, second is after. I'll double check these but should be correct. I believe I lowered the frame side to the lowest bolt hole. It was in the middle before.

Rear links are 1" too long :rolleyes: and I plug welded the extensions I put in. Awesome. :laughing:

Forgot to upload the Solidworks CAD snip of what I had to make to get this to work.
 

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Nice work man, that ended up being a ton of work, but you'll be happy you went through all the headache. You are getting it all dialed in exactly like you want.

And thanks for cutting those plates for me Saturday. I didn't end up working on it Saturday night because the baby was sleeping way too light for me to whack stuff with the hammer, but the size of the plates is perfect, and I tried moving some metal with the hammer on Sunday and I think it's gonna be easy peasy when I get into it again Thursday night.
 

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NERD
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Discussion Starter #1,132
Nice work man, that ended up being a ton of work, but you'll be happy you went through all the headache. You are getting it all dialed in exactly like you want.

And thanks for cutting those plates for me Saturday. I didn't end up working on it Saturday night because the baby was sleeping way too light for me to whack stuff with the hammer, but the size of the plates is perfect, and I tried moving some metal with the hammer on Sunday and I think it's gonna be easy peasy when I get into it again Thursday night.
Thanks Adam! I'm glad I'm ahead of schedule because the last few items are taking twice as long as planned. I nicked one of the brake lines as I was grinding off the old brackets so I get to replace that and bleed the brakes now too. Yay me! :laughing:

No problem, that's why I bought the cnc table :D We should get your baby some ear muffs :evil: hahaha
 

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NERD
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8,593 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,134
I see you lost an inch of RS height. How high is it compared to the front? Still above it?
RS height? Sorry, just not following the acronym. Do you mean roll center?

I'm playing with the calculator now. I think the ones I posted were old and had some guesses in there. I have a few different scenarios I'm about to post. Much different than original.
 

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NERD
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8,593 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,136 (Edited)
Oops, yes, roll center height.
Ahhh gotcha.

Here's updated geometry. First is old geometry before cutting the link bridge off. Second is the new geometry with the lower bolt home used for the uppers on the frame. Third is middle bolt hole, Fourth is upper bolt hole.

I will be trying both the middle and lower bolt holes to see which feels best. The middle bolt hole will probably feel good on the street but will squat a bit more than the lower hole. The lower hole is the most similar to my previous setup. I have lowered the Jeep considerably in this whole process so that helps the geometry significantly and I'm excited to see what this rig will do.

Don't mind the dark grey theme, it's meant to be easier on the eyes. My entire Windows theme is that color and it's reduced eye strain and headaches to almost none after a 8-10 hour day.
 

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Regarding CG height # and thinking it seems low @ 24.5". Is the general rule of thumb the upper bolt on the bellhousing, bottom bolt on bellhousing, crank centerline, or something else?
 

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Looking good man! I tell you what, you get spoiled with CNC plasma cut brackets. Its painful for me to make tabs manually now haha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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NERD
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8,593 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,139
Regarding CG height # and thinking it seems low @ 24.5". Is the general rule of thumb the upper bolt on the bellhousing, bottom bolt on bellhousing, crank centerline, or something else?
Thanks for bumping this to the thread. You may be right, seeing as how others use between 30 and 40 inches based on the vehicle ride height. I think I'm a bit low and low 30s is more accurate. This essentially lowers the AS. I tested it in the calculator and it lowers the AS about 10-20 points.

More threads on how to calculate vehicle CG height (center of gravity) here:

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/newbie-general-4x4-discussion/780931-how-do-you-find-center-gravity.html

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/758409-measuring-center-gravity-how.html

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/749851-belly-pan-clearance.html

Looking good man! I tell you what, you get spoiled with CNC plasma cut brackets. Its painful for me to make tabs manually now haha


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Thank you sir! :D I do feel spoiled and I love it. Let me know if you need some tabs cut :smokin: I have 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4 A36 sitting here.
 

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Thank you sir! :D I do feel spoiled and I love it. Let me know if you need some tabs cut :smokin: I have 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4 A36 sitting here.

I have a buddy a work with a table and idk what I’d do without him now! And I’ll let you know if I ever do.



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