What are you saying? That I have a hard time listening? :flipoff2:Same question again. What is your front roll center height? Is it still lower than the rear?
All else equal, it should take more spring rate to get back to the same amount of body roll.
Interested to hear how it feels with less anti-squat.
What are you saying? That I have a hard time listening? :flipoff2:
Not sure on the front RC, but I can get the measurements. I've been meaning to get all of it in the calculator and see exactly where the number end up.
Yes, it would take more spring rate but these sway bars are pretty stiff compared to Anti Rock or TK1.
Shortened the upper arms last night. They're ugly as fawk so WOD will be getting a call from me when I get back from KOH. I'll probably replace all the links except the rear lowers. Front lowers are too short even though they're chromo and stout. Uppers are all sleeved and need to be replaced.
Taking a break tonight then I'll be on the Jeep for 3 days straight.
:laughing::laughing::laughing:Sounds like you're all set to have a blast.
How the hell can a seal remove metal? Dirt getting down to it?
Are those hood pins the AutoFab ones? If they are, what do you think of them?
You friends need to apply peer pressure until you cave and rip the stock dash and wiring out. Everything on your Jeep is so well thought out and executed...........................except for that.:flipoff2:
Thanks Greg! I have to raise it up a bit for KOH but it will come back down with the new bypasses. I'll be getting more link kits after KOH so let me know!Lookin good Trevin!!
Love how low it is!!
Might have a candidate for one of those kits!!
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Thanks Adam! Maybe we can swap welders for a week :laughing: I'll have to look into the spool guns. That's a ways off but I'll keep it in mind! Might have to take you up on that one.My Hobart 210 MVP takes a spool gun. I'm really digging the welder in general, it's treating me good, but I don't have the spool gun for it. I have a lot of work to do to the front half of my Jeep before I go to Moab in April, but I'd let you borrow my welder if you wanna get a spool gun for it for you to use and just get it all set up like you want to run the spool gun for a bit to do your dash. The spool guns are pretty cheap. If I'm not gonna be using my welder, you can certainly borrow it for a bit.
My Hobart 210 MVP takes a spool gun. I'm really digging the welder in general, it's treating me good, but I don't have the spool gun for it. I have a lot of work to do to the front half of my Jeep before I go to Moab in April, but I'd let you borrow my welder if you wanna get a spool gun for it for you to use and just get it all set up like you want to run the spool gun for a bit to do your dash. The spool guns are pretty cheap. If I'm not gonna be using my welder, you can certainly borrow it for a bit.
Thanks Adam! Maybe we can swap welders for a week :laughing: I'll have to look into the spool guns. That's a ways off but I'll keep it in mind! Might have to take you up on that one.
Have some fresh pics coming in a few with a walkaround video...
Are you using standard front D60 seals?yeah, no idea on the seal. Big giant WTF. Both of them are doing it. The shaft is tight in there and takes some finesse and axial push to get it in the carrier but nothing crazy. All done by hand. So not sure what's going on. Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in. @AlxJ64 is probably the smartest axle guy I know.
Thank you sir I'm diggin the sound but the volume is a bit much. Need to route it out the back and probably put in a resonator somehow.Sounds mean and I love the stance! Can’t wait to get mine fired up!
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Looks like I need a TIG. Better just add it to the tool list and pick up a used Miller. Wouldn't mind one of those new multi-process machines from Miller than runs MIG and TIG. Thanks for the input! I've TIG'ed mild steel, SS, and 6061 aluminum with good results so I think it's time to upgrade soon.Most alum spool guns don't give the kind of results you'd want on a dash (thin alum). They run the spray arc transfer method, which doesn't lend itself well to good looking beads. The good looking MIG alum beads on radiators and such are done with push/pull guns running pulsed MIG. Just those guns alone are 2k+ and you need a machine with a pulser.
Just a data point to consider.
I already had that mount so I just threw it back on until I can 3D print a new designed dash bezel to fit the iPad. Not convinced I like the iPad gauges yet either. Would really like a set of Autometers so I might just pull the trigger later on for those and make this for maps and music. Not a fan of the giant obstruction but it works really well for being so cheap. $30 dongle, $10 app, $100 ipad, $40 case. Doubles as my in flight entertainment on tripsLooks great. Why did you choose to place gages on A pillar, instead of in the OEM factory location?
Thank you for this! I will look at those and give them a shot. I ran a Seals-It seal in my D30 CAD axle and it worked great. I'm going to try those again or the ones you just posted. Tired of the issues and just want it done. Such a pain in the ass!Are you using standard front D60 seals?
I machined some delrin sleeves and used doubled up Seals-It seals (like spidertrax uses) and pressed them in my front 60. They worked pretty good for a few years, but they really don't like the heat and were "crunchy" when I pulled them out last weekend. I put super duty seals back in (fit in the same place as an old 60 seal). Timken 710492. It's a 2 piece seal that doesn't ride on the axle shaft. I'm hoping they last a long time since seals are such a pain to change.