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NERD
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Discussion Starter #1,141
I have a buddy a work with a table and idk what I’d do without him now! And I’ll let you know if I ever do.



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:smokin::smokin::smokin: I've been following your build! Keep at it, those chassis are badass.
 

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Same question again. What is your front roll center height? Is it still lower than the rear?

All else equal, it should take more spring rate to get back to the same amount of body roll.

Interested to hear how it feels with less anti-squat.
 

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NERD
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8,593 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,143
Same question again. What is your front roll center height? Is it still lower than the rear?

All else equal, it should take more spring rate to get back to the same amount of body roll.

Interested to hear how it feels with less anti-squat.
What are you saying? That I have a hard time listening? :flipoff2:

Not sure on the front RC, but I can get the measurements. I've been meaning to get all of it in the calculator and see exactly where the number end up.

Yes, it would take more spring rate but these sway bars are pretty stiff compared to Anti Rock or TK1.

Shortened the upper arms last night. They're ugly as fawk so WOD will be getting a call from me when I get back from KOH. I'll probably replace all the links except the rear lowers. Front lowers are too short even though they're chromo and stout. Uppers are all sleeved and need to be replaced.

Taking a break tonight then I'll be on the Jeep for 3 days straight.
 

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What are you saying? That I have a hard time listening? :flipoff2:

Not sure on the front RC, but I can get the measurements. I've been meaning to get all of it in the calculator and see exactly where the number end up.

Yes, it would take more spring rate but these sway bars are pretty stiff compared to Anti Rock or TK1.

Shortened the upper arms last night. They're ugly as fawk so WOD will be getting a call from me when I get back from KOH. I'll probably replace all the links except the rear lowers. Front lowers are too short even though they're chromo and stout. Uppers are all sleeved and need to be replaced.

Taking a break tonight then I'll be on the Jeep for 3 days straight.

What I meant was if nothing else changes (spring rates, bar rate) lowering the RC will allow more lateral load transfer. So even if you're running bigger bars already, they're going to see bigger loads. Like I said, I'm looking forward to hearing the before/after seat of the pants report. That's all that really matters. It's great to hear real world experiences of whether one can even feel lowering a RC an inch or so.
 

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NERD
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Discussion Starter #1,145 (Edited)
Big update.

Jeep is pretty much ready to go. Need to replace one brake line that I don't think I flared correctly. Whoops. (first pic)

Moved the 2.0x3" Fox bumps to the rear with some bump pads (second pic). Frame will get hacked off after KOH so not worried about them. They look decent. Crossmember for front shocks is in, I'll have to add those clamps later like I always keep saying. :laughing: Everything under the hood looks much better than before but I want to do a big clean up after KOH to get rid of extra 4.0 harness pigtails and a few other tidbits to clean up things. (third pic)

Put in a temporary seal for the front long side of the Eaton 60. It uses two D60 seals but they wore grooves in the shaft. Still confused by this. I'll have to tear down the front end later and see WTF happened. :confused: (fourth pic)

Full bump right now (last pic) but will go up another 3" once the frame is cut. I'm out of travel. Sway bars just kiss the frame at full bump. Links hit frame at full bump. No point in notching frame right now due to the sway bars and other stuff in the way. Ride height right now is 5" uptravel but will be raising it to 7" at KOH.

More in next post for more pics...
 

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NERD
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Discussion Starter #1,146 (Edited)
This was as of Friday. Still had a lot to do but had the bumps mounted and a few of the little things wrapped up. Swapped the power steering pump Friday night on the Raptor. Girlfriend's birthday was Saturday also so we took the Raptor out to the forest and did a little target practice and tested the steering. Now running Amsoil instead of the Mercon crap that Ford puts in. It has never felt better!
 

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NERD
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Discussion Starter #1,147
Few more pics of the Raptor. I love this truck and I find myself wanting to do more offroading with it. It's a pretty stout platform so I see myself making this more of a trail running for bigger roads and open terrain. After the Jeep is squared away this is getting all my attention.

Measured the Jeep windshield last night. 71" to top of the frame where it spans across to the other side. Girlfriend's stock TJ.....68" :laughing: 3" higher on tons and 37's with 5" uptravel. Rear will have 7" at same height when it's backhalved. :D Not too bad!

Made a few of the link kits previously mentioned. Just a half dozen so far but they've come out very good.
 

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NERD
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Discussion Starter #1,148
To get caught up to today, we wrapped the doors and assembled the dash. Very small list for the next few days. It needs a wash but overall it's prepped and ready. Of course there's always things to tidy up or fine tune but she'll do fine for KOH week. I only test drove it down the block so hoping to drive it a bit more today or tomorrow to know how it does. :laughing::smokin:
 

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Sounds like you're all set to have a blast.

How the hell can a seal remove metal? Dirt getting down to it?

Are those hood pins the AutoFab ones? If they are, what do you think of them?

You friends need to apply peer pressure until you cave and rip the stock dash and wiring out. Everything on your Jeep is so well thought out and executed...........................except for that.:flipoff2:
 

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NERD
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Discussion Starter #1,150
Sounds like you're all set to have a blast.

How the hell can a seal remove metal? Dirt getting down to it?

Are those hood pins the AutoFab ones? If they are, what do you think of them?

You friends need to apply peer pressure until you cave and rip the stock dash and wiring out. Everything on your Jeep is so well thought out and executed...........................except for that.:flipoff2:
:laughing::laughing::laughing:

It looks better when all the covers are back on. I actually like the look but the vents are not functional. I'd really like to design a new one and fab something out of aluminum but still don't have a way to weld the aluminum. My Hobart 187 was the only 220 welder from Hobart that doesn't adapt well to a spool gun. If anyone has an idea there let me know! If I get the time I'd design and make a very simple dash with center console. It's on the list but only if I get time. Plenty of other shit to fix :shaking: :laughing: I did rip out the extra stock wiring and I actually like the factory fuse block setup under the dash. It's the PDC that's an eyesore. If I get time I'll rip it out but that'll likely be next winter at best.

Hood pins are the Daystar kit here and I like them a lot:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DKM4V0/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

yeah, no idea on the seal. Big giant WTF. Both of them are doing it. The shaft is tight in there and takes some finesse and axial push to get it in the carrier but nothing crazy. All done by hand. So not sure what's going on. Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in. @AlxJ64 is probably the smartest axle guy I know.
 

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Lookin good Trevin!!
Love how low it is!!
Might have a candidate for one of those kits!!
:smokin:


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My Hobart 210 MVP takes a spool gun. I'm really digging the welder in general, it's treating me good, but I don't have the spool gun for it. I have a lot of work to do to the front half of my Jeep before I go to Moab in April, but I'd let you borrow my welder if you wanna get a spool gun for it for you to use and just get it all set up like you want to run the spool gun for a bit to do your dash. The spool guns are pretty cheap. If I'm not gonna be using my welder, you can certainly borrow it for a bit.
 

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NERD
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Discussion Starter #1,153
Lookin good Trevin!!
Love how low it is!!
Might have a candidate for one of those kits!!
:smokin:


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Thanks Greg! I have to raise it up a bit for KOH but it will come back down with the new bypasses. I'll be getting more link kits after KOH so let me know! :D

My Hobart 210 MVP takes a spool gun. I'm really digging the welder in general, it's treating me good, but I don't have the spool gun for it. I have a lot of work to do to the front half of my Jeep before I go to Moab in April, but I'd let you borrow my welder if you wanna get a spool gun for it for you to use and just get it all set up like you want to run the spool gun for a bit to do your dash. The spool guns are pretty cheap. If I'm not gonna be using my welder, you can certainly borrow it for a bit.
Thanks Adam! Maybe we can swap welders for a week :laughing: I'll have to look into the spool guns. That's a ways off but I'll keep it in mind! Might have to take you up on that one.

Have some fresh pics coming in a few with a walkaround video...
 

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NERD
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Discussion Starter #1,154
Drove it around the block yesterday. Jeeeeeezzzzussss it's scary fast. I punched it in a large open area and the 80e downshifted, the rear end planted and squatted a bit, and the front end rose slightly. The Jeep took off so quickly I was a little shocked :laughing: Steering is very tight but always the same speed. I am growing to like it. It takes some effort to get going but no twitching at all and very powerful. Much happier with the new steering setup and the Genright pitman arm. Made some spacers for the short tie rod on the ram too, which had a small amount of binding.

Fan controls are working well, trans temps only got to around 175. I need to check the level and fill it up slightly I think. Replaced the brake line. Massaged the bump cans, thanks to Paul for the recommendation. D300 still leaks because it's a D300. Need to swap rear springs to heavier rate to get more lift in the rear for 7" uptravel at KOH.

I have to install my tunnel covers but that's it. Ready to roll.

Walkaround video:

 

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NERD
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Discussion Starter #1,155
Couple more with the dash assembled. It's not THAT bad! :D

Side shot to show how low it is :smokin:
 

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Sounds mean and I love the stance! Can’t wait to get mine fired up!


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My Hobart 210 MVP takes a spool gun. I'm really digging the welder in general, it's treating me good, but I don't have the spool gun for it. I have a lot of work to do to the front half of my Jeep before I go to Moab in April, but I'd let you borrow my welder if you wanna get a spool gun for it for you to use and just get it all set up like you want to run the spool gun for a bit to do your dash. The spool guns are pretty cheap. If I'm not gonna be using my welder, you can certainly borrow it for a bit.
Thanks Adam! Maybe we can swap welders for a week :laughing: I'll have to look into the spool guns. That's a ways off but I'll keep it in mind! Might have to take you up on that one.

Have some fresh pics coming in a few with a walkaround video...

Most alum spool guns don't give the kind of results you'd want on a dash (thin alum). They run the spray arc transfer method, which doesn't lend itself well to good looking beads. The good looking MIG alum beads on radiators and such are done with push/pull guns running pulsed MIG. Just those guns alone are 2k+ and you need a machine with a pulser.

Just a data point to consider.
 

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Looks great. Why did you choose to place gages on A pillar, instead of in the OEM factory location?
 

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yeah, no idea on the seal. Big giant WTF. Both of them are doing it. The shaft is tight in there and takes some finesse and axial push to get it in the carrier but nothing crazy. All done by hand. So not sure what's going on. Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in. @AlxJ64 is probably the smartest axle guy I know.
Are you using standard front D60 seals?

I machined some delrin sleeves and used doubled up Seals-It seals (like spidertrax uses) and pressed them in my front 60. They worked pretty good for a few years, but they really don't like the heat and were "crunchy" when I pulled them out last weekend. I put super duty seals back in (fit in the same place as an old 60 seal). Timken 710492. It's a 2 piece seal that doesn't ride on the axle shaft. I'm hoping they last a long time since seals are such a pain to change.
 

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NERD
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Discussion Starter #1,160
Sounds mean and I love the stance! Can’t wait to get mine fired up!


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Thank you sir :D I'm diggin the sound but the volume is a bit much. Need to route it out the back and probably put in a resonator somehow.

Most alum spool guns don't give the kind of results you'd want on a dash (thin alum). They run the spray arc transfer method, which doesn't lend itself well to good looking beads. The good looking MIG alum beads on radiators and such are done with push/pull guns running pulsed MIG. Just those guns alone are 2k+ and you need a machine with a pulser.

Just a data point to consider.
Looks like I need a TIG. Better just add it to the tool list and pick up a used Miller. Wouldn't mind one of those new multi-process machines from Miller than runs MIG and TIG. Thanks for the input! I've TIG'ed mild steel, SS, and 6061 aluminum with good results so I think it's time to upgrade soon.

Looks great. Why did you choose to place gages on A pillar, instead of in the OEM factory location?
I already had that mount so I just threw it back on until I can 3D print a new designed dash bezel to fit the iPad. Not convinced I like the iPad gauges yet either. Would really like a set of Autometers so I might just pull the trigger later on for those and make this for maps and music. Not a fan of the giant obstruction but it works really well for being so cheap. $30 dongle, $10 app, $100 ipad, $40 case. Doubles as my in flight entertainment on trips :D

Are you using standard front D60 seals?

I machined some delrin sleeves and used doubled up Seals-It seals (like spidertrax uses) and pressed them in my front 60. They worked pretty good for a few years, but they really don't like the heat and were "crunchy" when I pulled them out last weekend. I put super duty seals back in (fit in the same place as an old 60 seal). Timken 710492. It's a 2 piece seal that doesn't ride on the axle shaft. I'm hoping they last a long time since seals are such a pain to change.
Thank you for this! I will look at those and give them a shot. I ran a Seals-It seal in my D30 CAD axle and it worked great. I'm going to try those again or the ones you just posted. Tired of the issues and just want it done. Such a pain in the ass!
 
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