Schweet I'll go start oneYeah I’d be interested! Especially with some of the swap specific parts like adapters, transaxle, etc.
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I'll take plenty of pics and report what I used. There's a lot that's available for conversion parts now. It seems pretty straightforward aside from the auto to manual conversion.Yes we do! This is something I’ve always wanted to do so it’ll be nice to see it first hand.
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:laughing: LSJuan should make this little rear engine monster come to life again :evil:That's awesome. It took a bit for those subtle and not so subtle hints to sink in.
A build thread would be great to watch it come to life.
Thanks Matt! I have a local source that gives me a very good discount for my military service so I’ve been using them but I will keep Calico in mind. I definitely see the value in companies like that. Correcting their own errors instead of hoping the customer doesn’t see isn’t common anymore.Give Calico Coatings a call for ceramic coating your exhaust. I've used them on my G8 and the wife's TBSS with very good luck. They didn't like how the first coating turned out on the one set of header so they stripped them down and did them again. I was very happy with the results and since they communicated that to me and took it upon themselves to make it right before it even went out the door, that speaks volumes about their quality of work to me.
I had a bit of time in the shop the last few weeks. Drove the Jeep a bit more on the street to get a better idea of how it will react and drive. Steering still felt too stiff with the .250 Sweet servo but I put in the 3.25 turn PSC box and it's a huge difference. Much better for the street.
I had to ream out a LS1 steel power steering pump pulley, p/n 12568997 which has a 5/8" bore but the new CB pump has a 3/4" bore. Pump was actually .7490" bore with some fluctuations down to .7485". This means if you drill to 3/4" it won't be a press fit especially if the drill oversizes. I used a .7475" reamer to get a .7480" hole, reamed on a 3 axis mill. I then used a small torch and a pulley installer to press the pulley onto the pump shaft. This pulley is 6.625" diameter for reference and is as close as I could find to the 7.5" LS crank pulley diameter. You want as close to 1:1 ratio as possible with steering pumps to keep them from overspinning or cavitating.
I also installed the .235 steering valve and it shudders slightly with the wheels on jack stands. For anyone that's going to install a Sweet valve or similar, make sure you install a joint at each end instead of a straight splined adapter like I did. I have a joint on the front end towards the steering box and lined up the straight splined adapter with my steering shaft but it's now a little off and binding slightly. This feels like drag in the steering shaft and is part of the reason I have a small remaining complaint in the steering system. I will be swapping it out as soon as I can and this will be the last steering change I plan to make for a long time.
Last issue I've had lately is the 4l80e makes a "hissing" sound when hot and in a drive gear including reverse. This was likely due to a bad filter, which has been changed again with fresh fluid and I was also overfilling the transmission due to a bad dipstick. The shorty style dipstick was NOT a good idea in the long run and I now run an ATP branded dipstick. That was a pain in the ass and I'll never do a short style again.
First pic is with a stock TJ pump, PSC 1200x TC pump, and Lee Power Steering CB Pump. Next is just the PSC TC vs Lee CB. Installed pic showing how close the pulley is and the straight spline adapter I'm replacing for flex unit. Shiny fresh filter in my 80e and hopefully the last time I see the valvebody for a long time. Driveway shot is just to illustrate this is now a mall crawler :laughing:
:grinpimp: Hey Greg! I am itching to start that swap. Drove a newer 2 series BMW recently and I miss my 1 series so this Porsche better scratch that itch or I'll be looking for another M series!!!!Shameless plug for the Porsche thread in that last pic!!!!
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