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Discussion Starter #1
I did the Jeep thing for years with a few TJ's, an XJ, a JK, and a WJ. Started out bolting on crap with the first few Jeeps, and got to the point over the years where I fabbed everything myself on the last Jeep.

Got sick of it, and decided I wanted to build a Toyota truggy. Keeping the build cheap by doing the occasional part-out and watching for deals on Pirate, Craigslist, and vendors. My 22RE has been dubbed a "Small Package" by some friends building V8 buggies, so I decided to roll with it and name this build Project Small Package.

The build has been tweaked here and there as I progress, but the plans are:

22RE (Freshly Rebuilt), W56, Doubled Tcases w/ Triple Sticks
Front Axle: 8" Toy Solid Axle (IFS hubs, 5.29 Locked HP Third, 30 Spline Longs, Chromo Hub Gears, Trunnion Bearing Eliminators, Etc.)
Rear Axle: 8" Toy IFS Width Axle (5.29 Locked V6 Third, Disc Brakes)
Tires/Wheels: Not 100% decided yet, but probably 38-40's on Aluminum Beadlocks.
Suspension: RUF Front / 4-Link w/ Coilovers Rear

On to the build...


I picked up this '86 Xtra Cab on 04/29/2012 with a blown head gasket and no rear axle for $350 with a clean title. The cab and frame are virtually rust free.



Pulled the drivetrain and chopped off the back half of the frame and all the IFS.

 

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Discussion Starter #2
My first goal was to tear into the motor and see what it would take to rebuild it. It was covered in dirt and grease.





Everything was in pretty good shape since it only had around 160k miles on it, but the head gasket was blown, head was cracked and the timing chain guides were busted. I rebuilt it all and made sure I went with metal timing chain guides.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Update on progress now that I've gotten more accomplished...

I re-installed the drivetrain along with the doubled cases, and upgraded to a V6 radiator with a Volvo electric fan.




I decided to run a factory pump and sending unit to make the install a little cleaner.

I picked up an RCI 2161a really cheap from a buddy parting out his old rig. It already had a hole cut in it for a TJ fuel pump, so I

made an adapter for the Toyota pump.




Here's everything mounted up in the cell. I have since decided to cut out the section holding the sending unit and pump, and have it

TIG'd back in so that the fuel pump sits in the center of the cell.




My solution to a rotted out hard line.




I'll be using an Artec mount to hold it all down.





This is how the truck currently sits. I rolled a couple 35's we had sitting around the shop in front of it, but I'll be running bigger tires when it's finished.



I'm waiting on some more tubing to come in and then I will start the rear suspension and coilovers. I've got 2" .3125 wall DOM and 7/8" Ruffstuff heims ready to go for the links, and everything figured out in the 4-Linck calculator, so it's just a matter of building it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
staying leafs in front?
Yeah, staying with front leafs for the time being. I would have linked the front right away, but I had all the stuff to do the leafs already, so I'm just going to run that for the time being and link the front down the road. Really don't want to miss too much wheeling. Of course there's always a chance I change my mind when I get around to the front and just link it anyways. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Lots of work, so here's some updates.

This is how I did my frame side lower link mounts. It's tied into the factory horse collar behind both link mounts, and each link mount is gusseted with 3/8"plate.





For the frame side upper link mounts I sleeved a piece of 2" tubing over the 1.75", which gave me the perfect mounting width for the 7/8" Ruff Stuff heims. This pics also shows how I plated the ends of the frame to tie in the tube work.



My links are 2" OD 5/16" wall DOM with 7/8" Ruff Stuff heims. Probably a little overkill on the tubing for the upper links, but I got such a good deal on the tubing, that I couldn't pass it up. I had to take .125" off of the OD of the tube inserts to get them to fit the 5/16" wall tubing, so I ended up chucking them up in an old HF drill press that I didn't give a crap about and using an angle grinder to turn them down. Worked surprisingly well.



Final suspension setup.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
My goal is to finish the rear end, and then move onto the front so it was time to drop some cash on some parts.

I picked up some 14" travel 2.0" coilovers from Profender. Really impressed with the quality, especially for the price.



Here's how I tied in the coilover mounts.





Next came tires. I went with 39x14.5x17 Pitbull Maddogs.



I wanted a set of Raceline beadlocks, but decided I'll just run some 2.5" backspaced steel Procomp's for the time being and upgrade later.



Looks like the spare tire will fit real nice.



Got the tires mounted and mocked them up. The whole truck will sit about 2-3" taller when I get everything set up, I've just got it sitting lower for now since I HATE working on vehicles while they are solely supported by jack stands. The front tire is just leaning up against the fender in these pics, but once the truck sits higher, along with a fender trim, I think it will fit.





That's where it sits for now. Been collecting parts and working on a bunch of the small stuff in my spare time. I hope to get this thing finished in the next month or two.
 

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Really nice work, love the internal cage work/execution. Can't wait to see it on the trail.
 

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That's a nice clean look. Report back after a few rides on how the Maddogs do. A buddy is running a set and read some good reviews on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Whats the seperation between the upper links and lower links on the axle? Whith the 39s i think oyu goin to have too muck squat. I make my seperation 25% of the tire size.
Just under 12" of vertical separation at the axle end. It should have 89% AS according to the 4-link calculator which I think will work good. I ran a lot of possible numbers through the calculator before I built everything to ensure it's not a total hack job. :D

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 

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Just under 12" of vertical separation at the axle end. It should have 89% AS according to the 4-link calculator which I think will work good. I ran a lot of possible numbers through the calculator before I built everything to ensure it's not a total hack job. :D

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
I see no hack job here. all looks good.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Layed down a good coat of hammered paint on the tube work. I'll just grind it off where I need to weld on little stuff here and there and then hit the whole thing with another coat in the end. It's covered in the pics, but I also masked off the lower half of the back of the cab and painted it black to blend it in a little better.



Made a plate for my brake light (USA Made Tecniq Red Hi Mount Center Brake Turn ID Bar 11 LED Light Trailer Truck | eBay), license plate, and reverse lights.



I stripped back the factory wiring, eliminated the duplicate wires, then wired in the 5 wire to 4 wire conveter (IIT 16690 5 Pole To 4 Pole Trailer Converter : Amazon.com : Automotive) I need to run my brake light bar.



Wired up two of the LED rock lights I got on Pirate (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/miscellaneous/1058739-rock-lights-under-50-strand-20-lights.html) for my reverse lights.



Welded in some machine screws to mount them.



Reverse lights.



All wired up. I am going to clean up the wiring and make a steel cover that bolts on over all the wiring to protect it.



Mocked it all up. The brake light bar will do drive lights, brake lights, and each side will flash for turn signals.





Drive lights, license plate lights (2pcs White 1 SMD 5630 LED Motorcycle Car License Plate Screw Bolt Light Kit CW | eBay), and reverse lights.

 
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