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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
95 Wrangler project. 6 cyl. Auto trans.

After researching my options, I wanted to keep the jeep strong and simple without getting into anything too extreme. My last build was a never ending project with a solid axle swap in a Ford Explorer & before I knew it, the rig was a monster truck that I only ended up using 4-6 times a year for events or big runs. This time I wanted a more dual purpose rig that could still "get it" off road!

Here it is stock the week I bought it:



And high centered, of course:D



On this Jeep, I decided to go with Waggy springs all around to push the wheelbase an extra 5" or so. I'm running a 8.8 rear with chromo axles and a Detriot locker and a Dana 44 from an early Bronco up front, also locked, with chromo shafts. The tires are 37 Goodyear MT/r and I have a hydro assist. setup to help turning.

I'm installing a 4-1 t-case from a Rubicon and clocking it to help fit a flat belly skid plate. I'm leaving the motor stock and adding a low stall converter to the transmission along with a big B&M cooler. We installed a 1" body lift and the MORE 1" motor mounts to help line everything up.

We did a mock up of the SOA to see how it all fit...





My first thoughts were "Man that's tall, and the tires look small" the frame is 27" off the deck.

Then I started planning for all the things I needed to deal with the height and the SOA configuration: Antiwrap bar for the rear, Antirock for the front, firm shocks with a ton of rebound dampening to controll body roll etc... one of the things I hated about the Explorer was how tall it was and how hard it was to control that tippy, body roll feeling. I started looking into things to lower it down a bit, frenching the hangers, going to some flatter springs (but I'd lose the wheelbase)

After all that, I said "let's try it spring under see how it looks. I got a Rock Crawler hood from a friend so I don't have to worry about clearance up front and hopefully I can skip the antiwrap bar for the back. Now I just need to open up the rear fender wells as much as possible, find a way to install the inner fenders up front, find some u-bolt flip kits to clean up the springs, and see how it works!











I'll post more pictures as we make some more progress and let you know how it works down low... Frame is a little over 21" off the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks!

The springs are front Grand Wagoneer springs. I used them for the offset pin that allows me to stretch the wheelbase a few inches front and rear.

I still have the antiwrap bar, I needed to cut the axle mount off cause it hit the gas tank when we lowered the jeep (top of the mount leaned back too far). If I need it, I can re-do the mount and be good to go!

I just ordered the B&M shifter that's going on the floor and I'll be tapping the steering box soon so we can get the hydro assist. system set up...

Anybody have some ideas on filling the inner fenders up front? I'm going to try cutting off the old inner fenders and installing them with something to fill the gap up top...
 

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put some rear TJ flares over the rear tires. they open the wheel well up quite a bit.
Not in his case. TJ flares offer about the same clearance as the stock fender cutout on a YJ. He needs to do some trimming and get rid of some sheet metal, maybe even a comp cut depending on use and legality to get a few more inches of uptravel.
 

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Not in his case. TJ flares offer about the same clearance as the stock fender cutout on a YJ. He needs to do some trimming and get rid of some sheet metal, maybe even a comp cut depending on use and legality to get a few more inches of uptravel.
I am doing the same thing with my 94 YJ with Waggy D44f and Rodeo rear, the TJ flares open the back up 3-5 depending on where you put them. Tim
 

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I am doing the same thing with my 94 YJ with Waggy D44f and Rodeo rear, the TJ flares open the back up 3-5 depending on where you put them. Tim
Ive installed them on a few YJs and CJs already, Even moving them back, with large tires they still rub the front of the wheel well. The OP has it even tougher because hes running such a large tire with only a little SUA lift. And even by looking at the pics, you can tell (based on the angle of the pics) that at even an 1" or so of uptravel and hes gonna be rubbing metal and killing his tires. Theres no way he is gonna get around cutting it out, and definetly not by just mounting up a set of TJ flares and calling it a day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I had a set of TJ flares to use when it was SOA, but now with it dropped down: I need to cut a lot more. The first pic shows where I'm going to cut (yellow line), then I'm going to bump stop it to keep the tires from rubbing. If it's too limiting on the uptravel, I'll cut out the tubs and raise them up a few inches. The red line shows more or less where I was going to trim for the TJ flares (yeah, I got mad MS Paint skills:flipoff2: )

I'm going to have a friend make me a set of tube flares like the GenRight ones once I get everything worked out back there... (like the ones in the 2nd pic)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Things are moving along again now. I was held up a bit by the extra length seal I needed for the t-case...it was back ordered.

Here is a picture of how we clocked the t-case using the clocking ring as a guide:





Here is how the t-case sits now...flatter so that I can run a flat belly skid plate under everything.





Here you can see the cross member that Willy's shop in TJ made to support the transmission/t-case...came out great!



Here is the trimming of the wheel well to clear the rear tires:



Got my box of brackets from RuffStuff to do the u-bolt flip:



 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Here is a better picture of the trans. cross member:



The drive shafts cut to length:



Here is the front u-bolt stuff and the shifter that's going in...



Decided to rig up the antiwrap bar that I ran on the Explorer since all the brackets were there anyway. Still need to make the cross member/mount for the shackle:



Here are a few of us checking the rear tire stuff in order to see if there is clearance for outboard shock hoops back there.





Checking the hood clearance etc...







 

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I've been fond of this exact idea for sometime now. I like the low center of gravity and relief from all the headaches of SOA. I would probably be cheap and highline the hood myself, but sounds like you got a deal on the high clearance hood. Should work great offroad and be a sweet DD if you want to cruise around town. Brilliant work!

Did you have to relocate the gas take with the 2"-3" stretch in the back?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Did you have to relocate the gas take with the 2"-3" stretch in the back?
The diff just touches the tank now, but I plan to lift the tank 1-2" and make a new skid for it. The body lift lets me move it up a bit.

That looks awesome! I hacked my rear fenders up and I want to do something very similar... What did you do about inner fender in the rear after you trimmed like that?
I took a small drill and punched out a hole from the inside to mark the upper corner. Then I drew straight lines to mark the cuts right below the inner fender. I used a paint can lid to make the round corners...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I really like the looks of your jeep. Have you figured out what to do for the inners yet and have you already relocated everything under the hood that was on the wheel wells.
I'm going to make some new sheet metal inner fenders and mount most of the stuff to them. I'm moving the batteries to behind the seats and I used a plastic bottle for the rad. overflow.
 
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