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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well decided it was time to try some axles with better clearance and decided on a bigger motor.


LT1-harness from lt1350.com(They SUCK!), some work done by local shop
Th350- new re-manufactured, shift kit, manual valve body, custom 31spline output, b&m shifter
Ford np205- 1350 yokes, twin stick

Mog 404's
disc brakes, 4 piston corvette calipers, weps portal box braces, weps high steer, weps 8 lug conversion, air lockers, pinion conversions

4link rear with johnny joints, bent upper links, 2in square tubing .250 wall, lowers triangulated, 16" airshocks

3(4)link front depending on what you call it
Johnny joints, 2in square tubing lowers, DOM upper, DOM track bar, track bar 3/4 hiem joints, 14in coilovers dual rate with reservoir

Full hydro with double ended cylinder and highsteer

17in H2 wheels with 40 maxxis creppy crawler

Here is what she looked like before she went under the knife again.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
couple of parts to upgrade the axles. First I knew that portal box braces from weps would be a big help. While I was at it also got the high-steer arms and the 8 lug conversion.

Beefy half inch thick







Hubs with 8 on 6.5 plate welded on

Before and after


Some welds, sorry didnt clean it at all before I took picture
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here are some pictures of WEPS disc brake conversion.

Drilled and slotted rotors that I ordered.

The ring from weps pressed then welded on.

The Rotors mounted to the hub now with wheel studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here is just quick drawing of rear suspenion.


Here are my tires




Thanks Maxxis. They look great.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Been a long time coming on this rig. With buying a house and then having to fix it up, havent had much time or money.
 

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Its always good to see a Jeep on Mogs...oh and nice helper.:smokin:
 

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:D you gone and done it, now you gotta show more of your helper :D
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Wanted to just write a quick run down of how to pull the center section on these Mog 404's, just to make it easier to find for people who search.

You don't have to pull the axles from the rig just pull the drive shaft or torque tube. Start by pulling the axle shafts out on both sides. You can tie the locker cable tight so it keeps locked. Dont have to, but it will still come out. You will then need to take something like a brass punch and hammer to push the alignment pins out of the center section. These pins are located on both sides of the bolt flange right above the center bolt on each side. There are only 2 pins. Next pull all the bolts in center section that are on the flange. The 4 bolts that are farther out on pinion are not pulled. If you try, they will never come off they have locking pin inside. Best way I found to do this next step, is to slide in on your back where the pinion is over your chest. Pull the pinion out about 1/4inch, then rotate clockwise 90 degrees. It should pull strait out after that. Don't forget the pins in housing before you put center section back in.


Another thing don't make the mistake I did. INSTALL ALL NEW BOLTS. These bolts are probably 20 years old or so and they will twist in two right as you put the last torque on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So far on this project I have put more thought and ideas into what is the best way to mount a th350 to a ford np205. You can buy the adapter from Advance Adapters for about $500. Didn't like the sound of that for two reasons: money and it makes my rear drive shaft to short. Or you can build your own adapter out of a Chevy np205 but you still have to buy or build the $250 stub shaft. This still made my drive shaft too short. So what I did to keep it simple (or I thought) and to give me a longer rear drive shaft and better angle on front drive shaft, I am building a custom output shaft for the Th350. I took a stock shaft and built it up with welds making it a .25in longer and 1.32in diameter. This took a lot more time then I thought. I sent the shaft off today to Moser for it to be splined. I will then be building an adapter that is out of 1/2in thick steel to mount the th350 to the np205. Here are some pictures of the shaft.
 

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What are you doing in terms of a gauge on your fuel setup?

I have a RCI 2191 right now with a TJ pump, but im looking to go to a Inline...

Still dont know what im going to do about the fuel gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
What are you doing in terms of a gauge on your fuel setup?

I have a RCI 2191 right now with a TJ pump, but im looking to go to a Inline...

Still dont know what im going to do about the fuel gauge.
I use to run a RCI 2161 with tj pump and I just used the stock floater gauge on pump with that set up. It worked well, would tell me it was empty when I still had about 3 gallons left just because the tank was a little deeper that factory. But with the MPG I was getting it was time to start looking for a gas station anyways. With this new set-up I might just not have a gauge and be real careful and always keep it full.
 
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