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No kidding. It's also a well known fact that pushing the coolant too fast will also cause issues.
If your talking about a radiator, I've heard that moving the coolant too fast being bad is a myth. I've always thought it was a myth. The explanation I always hear is "it goes through too fast to lose any heat". There may be another reason, but I don't believe that one. If it was going so fast that it was making more pressure, I could see more heat being created just through pumping. But I think a heat exchanger cools a certain amount of BTUs for a given temp and flow of coolant.

Of course, in this instant, everything is backwards. (The liquid is cooling the air) But I still think it applies the same.

Do you have a tech site or source that explains your statement?
 

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I'm running a couple chinese cores in series with a single first gen prius inverter rad and pump, one is integrated into the intake manifold bolted right to the head, so it gets a lot of conducted heat into it. The other is just an interstage charge cooler between turbos. After beating the fuck out of it you can put your hand on the end tanks and they're barely above ambient. This is a TD04HL-19t and an HX40 in a compound setup making 45 PSI.
Here's what I think is the 1st problem is. The red dots are where I moved the inlet/outlets to. They are both on the upper end, not one down low and one up high. So I think the water is just skating along the top, not recirculating the water below.
basically all of them are two centered inlet/outlet

the IC is mostly thermal mass, you aren't shedding heat full time, only when under boost, which is only a few seconds at a time in such a light car. All your pump and lines have to keep up with is heatsoak from being in the engine bay.

My bet is that your IC is partially full of air. Does not take a lot to cause a large drop in thermal mass of the IC. That or airlocked lines/rad.

No kidding. It's also a well known fact that pushing the coolant too fast will also cause issues.
"well known" by toothless trailer park methheads that noticed their tree fitty wit camel humps and a 3/4 race cam overheats when they take out the tstat, then runs normal when they put a washer in the rad hose
gen 1 sbc is radiator priority water flow, to the point that without the restriction of a tstat none of the flow circulates the engine coolant, just makes a loop of the radiator, WP and front two cylinders
this is not a 350 chevy, it is an intercooler
 

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While you may need more pump than you have I wonder if you actually need more pressure to compensate for the 3/4 lines and hose length. If I read the the Lingenfelter graphs correctly the Bosch pump completely stalls at 7 psi and performs pretty poorly in the test.

With 3/4 lines your line loss will be allot higher than the tuners suggested size and with centrifugal pump like you have flow/pressure are dependent on restriction. If the line length/loss and the restrictive core are enough of a restriction you might not have much flow at all due to the pressure requirement to pump it. Some bungs welded at the inlet outlet of the IC will tell you both temp and pressure fairly easily.

A switch to a positive displacment pump might be required to get the flow up.
 

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My bet is that your IC is partially full of air. Does not take a lot to cause a large drop in thermal mass of the IC. That or airlocked lines/rad.
There definitely could be air in the IC. The IC points a little down hill and I put the fill port as high up as possible. But there still could be a 1/4" or so above that has no way to purge air. Also, for simplicity reasons, the IC circuit does not have a pressure cap or expansion tank. I don't know if that's going to be a problem or not.
 

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My 09' WRX (the donor car for this project) makes right at 300 to the wheels with very minimal mods and is a blast to drive on the street. Its a bit of a fat pig (especially with my 300lb ass in it) and it still puts a smile on my face when I mat the go pedal.

JR's bug has to weigh in at 1/3 less than my car (and I assume he's a skinny fella too), makes the same power, and has a proper dyno tune by a reputable tuner.

Sure, you could squeeze more power by re engineering everything thats already been engineered to fit in an "Uncomfortable Place" [/Chasing Amy reference], but are the couple extra ponies worth the hassle?

I say job well done and drive the wheels off of it as is! :grinpimp:
 

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My 09' WRX (the donor car for this project) makes right at 300 to the wheels with very minimal mods and is a blast to drive on the street. Its a bit of a fat pig (especially with my 300lb ass in it) and it still puts a smile on my face when I mat the go pedal.

JR's bug has to weigh in at 1/3 less than my car (and I assume he's a skinny fella too), makes the same power, and has a proper dyno tune by a reputable tuner.

Sure, you could squeeze more power by re engineering everything thats already been engineered to fit in an "Uncomfortable Place" [/Chasing Amy reference], but are the couple extra ponies worth the hassle?

I say job well done and drive the wheels off of it as is! :grinpimp:

I would consider it more of a safety/longevity concern. 110° over ambient temp is HOT. I’m sure his tuner is good and has compensated for it, but I would be concerned there isn’t enough margin of error when it gets hot out, especially with stock cast pistons.
 

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JR,

Grimmspeed sells their wrx intercooler coated with thermal dispersant. The stuff works great and you can get it locally and spray it yourself. Techline is local to us and has a new formula is water based. Guy there coated a couple of radiators for me for cheap. You can watch how fast it sheds heat in the video posted below.

https://www.smyperformance.com/grimmspeed-top-mount-intercooler-kit-with-thermal-dispersant-coating-black-2008-2014-wrx.html

https://techlinecoatings.com/tech-line-coatings/industrial-coatings/thermalmanagement/

https://youtu.be/c4Lcc7T3gQQ
 

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"well known" by toothless trailer park methheads that noticed their tree fitty wit camel humps and a 3/4 race cam overheats when they take out the tstat, then runs normal when they put a washer in the rad hose
gen 1 sbc is radiator priority water flow, to the point that without the restriction of a tstat none of the flow circulates the engine coolant, just makes a loop of the radiator, WP and front two cylinders
this is not a 350 chevy, it is an intercooler
Nice try. That is not what I said and also not what I meant. There is no need for a pump that is 10 times the flow he needs for the spec of his system. The smaller the pipe the higher the pressure will be and it will just end up creating problems and not doing a better job of cooling jack shit. It's going to create high pressures and just bring hot water back faster if his intercooler can't drop the heat from it. The mustang guys have been dealing with this for a while. He's another reference for pipe size that is close to what he has and flow rates of several other pumps. :flipoff2:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/intercooler-water-pump-flow-data.41867/
 

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Well that's very technical. You are the internet.
:flipoff2:
I used to datalog, but then I realized that I don't actually take the time to use them while editing my tune files, so why bother.

ETA: and in relation to this conversation, every setup is so wildly different that hard numbers mean nothing. Basic concepts transfer over.
 

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It's going to create high pressures and just bring hot water back faster if his intercooler can't drop the heat from it.
the water temperature in such a small loop is usually pretty uniform throughout if you've got enough pump

yes if you run less pump the water will have a higher temperature difference across the hoses, but the water coming out of the intercooler will be hotter, meaning the air coming out of the intercooler is hotter

radiator will drop more heat with a higher inlet temperature, but as said above, slowing the flow to raise the coolant temperature is counterproductive as you're not trying to get your radiator to dump heat, you're trying to cool your charge air
 
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