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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys its been a while since i've been here. I heard one time that it works great to weld the spider gears on the Dana 30 front axle in a YJ..

I've been thinking about getting a locker for the front and rear and I am not really into any hard core rock crawling but just some occasional off road fun.
I'm lookin into the Powertrax No Slip traction system for the rear and I'm just not sure about the front. Since the YJ has a front axle disconnect actuator would it be ok to weld the spider gears together??

Since the YJ uses the front axle disconnect only one wheel will be spinning the differential when used in 2wd mode, Correct?
And when the actuator engages 4wd the power is only transferred to one wheel since it has an open differential, correct?

Now, why would it not be ok to weld the spider gears together, since the only time that i would need to lock the front diff anyways is when i engage 4wd. and when in 2wd mode the other axle will be disconnected anyway and both wheel will be freewheeling.

If anybody has done this, any information on how to or not to do this would be apprecitated.

Thanks guys,

Jesse
 

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I have not done this but the only prob I see with it is the shitty vacuum disco if you have problems with that driving home is going to suck cuz the hubs are always locked in so when you take turns the outer wheel spins more than the inner wheel so there is a lot of binding and eventually cablam.
say you blow your rear end and have to drive home in front wheel drive (happened to me a lot) a welded front most likely will blow your front end to bits
the way to fix this is locking hubs. Other wise do what you want don’t matter to me
 

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What do you have for a rear axle - the D35? If that is the case you would be better off to focus on upgrading it first and forget the front for the moment. Do a Super 35 or something. If you still have the stock axles in the front you've got the smaller 261x u-joints. You should consider an upgrade [TJ] axles in front for the bigger 297x/760x u-joints.
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i have a d35 in the rear. its stock, i've only got a really old and tired 2.5 in it so i dont really want to worry about the rear axle strength for now. I'm sure it will do just fine for light duty wheelin. as far the front axle disco thingy, i'm probable going to install or make my own manual disconnect.
 

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you will have a hard time turning in 4wd, i wouldn't spool/weld a front axle unless you have hydro steering
 

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Welding a D30 = :nuke:

It can be made to last decently long with a regular locker or LSD, judicious throttle control, and MAYBE 35's, but welding it is just asking for trouble.

I've heard nothing but excellent remarks about the aussie locker, I run one in my rear 44 and love it. I will be getting one for the front soon.

The other problem with having the D35 out back is that your rear axle is weaker than the front, meaning there's a good chance you may have to drive out under front-wheel-drive power after any decent wheelin trips. If you have to do that on a welded D30 you'll be walking home.
 

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vetteboy79 said:
Welding a D30 = :nuke:
Agreed.....The Dana30 wont last very long welded up. Put a Lockright in there, thats about all the time and money a D30 is worth putting into anyways unfortunately.
 

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Weld both of them, that way when they blow up on the street you might hit a telephone pole or other non moving object and knock some sense into you.
 
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If you are thinking of upgrading your axle in the near future, weld it and have a little fun. WHEN it blows up, put in your D44 or D60. If you want to keep the axle, keep it open. Don't throw any $$$ into the 30! I wasted $$$ on a detroit, high steer, gears, warn axles/hubs, etc for my old D30. I lost count of the u-joints and axles I've replaced. The D30 WON'T last with welded spiders!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well guys, this isnt really the reaction that I expected. I've heard of so many people who have had good luck with it. I just might have to put this idea on the back burner for a while until i have enough money to upgrade to a better axle and put a good locker in it.

As far as the rear 35 is concerned, I would just like to have more traction when off roading. I dont drive hard and i'm usually pretty sensible when i'm off road. Would a Lock-Rite be a good choice for a locker in the rear?

A buddy of mine had one and it went to shit when he was wheelin in Tennesee on weekend and got stuck on the trail for several hours until he was able to find a set of spider gears to get himself home. He thinks that this locker is junk but I've heard alot of people like them.

I just want something that would work well for the kind of wheelin I do. I would spend alot of time in sandy or muddy areas. Not much rock crawlin for me.

Any more help appreciated

Thanks

Jesse
 

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i like my lockrite in the front 30, don't lock the 35, please, cause i don't want to be the guy digging out the spare shafts for the fool that put a detroit in a d35 with 35" tires
 

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1slowyj said:
well guys, this isnt really the reaction that I expected. I've heard of so many people who have had good luck with it.

Would a Lock-Rite be a good choice for a locker in the rear?

Sounds like you want a bunch of people to tell you "Go for it!"
Not going to happen on PBB.

Both axles on your YJ are junk. Don't bother locking up the D35. Learn from other people's experiences. I had a LockRite in my old D35. With daily driver use, the locker actually wore out, usually lasting me about one year. I went through several of them. By the time I swapped out the D35, the cross shaft bore in the carrier was sloppy as hell. The housing itself was warped, causing the axle shaft seals to constantly leak.

Another guy I know had a D35 with and Lock Rite. He actually blew the carrier to peices! On the street!:nuke:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
alright then, i get it. the jeep is a piece of shit, i wonder why i even bought one, got who'd of thought that a stock jeep couldnt go off roading, what the hell was jeep thinkin of when they made these things 4x4's!

i feel sorry for all the people in the world with stock jeeps its a fuckin wonder that the things even move anymore with stock parts. all parts companys must just be laughing their asses off every time they make a part for a dana 30 or 35 because they know that the part will fail or the axle will fail simply because Jeep doesnt know how to select the proper axle for their vehicles.

Now, if you guys are the go big or go home type, I understand. I have a buddy of mine who thinks that nothing is good stock, he would prefer to spent 2.50 a gallon on gas in his jeep that gets 5 miles per gallon, and sacrafice reliablility for power and coolness associated with having a big motor that uses alot of fuel and is loud.

What the fuck is wrong with having an underpowered 4 cylinder in a vehicle that was never meant to go fast or accerate like a porsche. i would rather crawl around the woods all day long at 3 mph than cruise on the highway at 75mph for ten minutes.

anyways, the point i'm trying to convey is that not all people need to build a professional rock crawling machine and spend an outrageous amount of money on high performance and heavy duty parts just to own a Jeep.

People who occasionally wheel, (LIKE MYSELF) cannot see justification to spend 3k on an axle that will not break, Yes, this axle may be the cats meow for someone who spends all their time off road and never sees alot of time on the road.

This vehicle is my daily driver. To and from the grocery store.

Maybe once in a while this thing will see some mud or sand or maybe a rock but the rocks that i drive on usually get stuck in my TIRES!!!

I'm not gonna change my axles until i can justify spending the money on them!

Jeep couldnt have possible thought that their axles would'nt handle occasional off roading or they Woudn't have put them in their vehicles.

Point proven, or maybe not, I dont care!

I'm just not gonna take advice from people who wont view things from my side of the road. If you guys were more understanding of my questions maybe i wouldnt have wrote this post but i just figured that maybe someone could give me a little help and suggest something that would work well for me without breaking the bank
 

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Well I guess I will be the only one to chime in with actual real world experience...

It works fine BUT

1)
You need to mess with the vacuum disconnect to make it reliable, I would suggest although I haven't tried a posi-lock cable locker. This was really the downfall to my setup, I built a phuematic setup and fabricated it slightly off making it not fully engauge, as a reault it would let the shafts walk apart enough to slip teeth.


2)
You need to run the 1995.5 YJ passenger's side inner shaft, it was the only 297x disconnect axleshaft that I know of. They are uber rare and as a result you almost have to buy them new. IMO that sucks ass. You can use 260x shafts for spares but they break much easier.


3)
You need to balance your front driveshaft as it will spin all the time and it didn't before.

I think I broke 2 times with this setup, so breakage isn't out of control high. I broke the 8.8" once for comparison so I am not playing it easy. Don't discredit your 2.5L it makes plenty of power to break stuff, the D35 is pretty much a piece. You can get an 8.8" into your YJ for the price of locking the D35, I highly suggest you do that instead.


In the end I found a lock right for $50 so I just installed it and welded the disconnect in place. I still think about adding a posi-lock and if I find one I might do it.
 

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Holy shit killer slow down. If that is your viewpoint than pirate isn't exactly the place for you to be, in fact i'm surprised you onlygot flamed once. Maybe JU is the place for you to be asking questions like this. Secondly yes the dana 35 is a peice of shit for what most of us are doing, for your apilication I would put in a super 35 kit and call it done. For the wheeling you described this would be more than enough, and a front locker probably isn't that necesary. As to the pissed off sarcastic coments on jeep not putting good axles into their rigs, well in the YJ andmost TJ's cases they didn't. The demographics they considered when building these rigs had more to do with people who drove their jeeps on the street and maybe takeing it up a bumpy gravel road once a year. This is the consumer base that most of DC's business is composed of. Fourtunately they learned the errors of their ways, and offered a rear dana 44 in the TJ Sahara models begining in 97. They further progressed from shitty YJ's with 4.2L engines peugot transmissions and D30/35axles to what we see as the rubicon in present day. Perhaps in ten more years they will realize that maybe they shouldconsider putting a real 44 up front or maybe not, but i do guarontee that DC will do whatever it needs to show its investors a profit at the end of each quarter. if you have any questions about building a rig feel free to email me or post on the boards in a considerate fassion as most of the people giving you advice were in your position once and shattered their fare share of pussy ass D35 shafts and other assorted peices.
 

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A TJ longside axle can be used with a special inner axle seal to remove the disconnect completely. It is possibe to wheel with a 30. I did it for quite a few years. Blew up a few ring gears and bent the housing to hell.

I have a lot less respect for the model 35 rear. I see a lot of broken axles on the trail. Most of them are 35's. A d44 or 8.8 rear is an upgrade to consider. Especially if you need to drive the thing to work. Reliability of the 35 would be my concern.
 

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Putting a Super 35 is like trying to polish a turd, it might get shinny an pretty, but it is still a POS. Your 35 is great for STOCK tires, STOCK gearing, STOCK open diffs (maybe a posi) and terain that you can handle in STOCK configuration. BTW the D30 is just slightly less sucky than the D35. If you are getting upset because you are not hearing what you want, STFU. These guys here know what they are talking about. If you want to throuw a locker in and get a litle more ''adventurious'' then pay the price of admision (reliability) and upgrade. You can put a 8.8 (with a posi) in for not much more $$ than a locker into your D35 or D30. A smart man learns from his mistakes, a wise man learns from the mistakes of others.
 

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Jeep doesn't build their stuff to be taken offroad. They build it to make money.

Some engineer looked at the power output of the motor, the weight of the vehicle, and the force needed to push the thing around reasonably on the road (or better yet, the force needed to drive it off the car lot..) and when the numbers were done, the D35 axle satisfied all their requirements.

The percentage of jeep owners that actually break this stuff is really small too, but going to places like this, that's what you're going to hear about. Truth is that the D35 is a fine axle for 90% of the jeep owners out there. And that's because they're using their vehicles to do exactly what jeep intended them to do: drive around town, carry stuff, be fun, and be able to handle snow every now and then.

There are very few vehicles that are actually designed to do more than that, from the factory. Some things last longer than others, and you'll always hear about 'that guy' for whom something 'worked' when everyone else has busted stuff, but the bottom line is that factory parts become increasingly more worthless the more wheelin you do.
 
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