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man i exploded a dana 30 R&P with an open diff so it depends on your driving style. :smokin:
 
Your theory on welding the front will work. The axle will disconnect when shifted back into two wheel drive and the front driveshaft will turn. That said, please don't run a lockright in the back. I run one in the front, but my buddys rig just like yours was real funky till it broke. He now has it welded in the rear, but trailers it. As long as you keep your 33's and don't beat the piss out of it. It should last for a while. If this is your only mode of transportation. I'd reconsider the whole thing. Jeeps all along have been built for there intended use. A stock flatfender with stock tires will cross the Rubicon. been there done that. Most guys here want to beat on it and have built it big for that purpose. Thier rigs I mean.
 
MrWillys said:
Your theory on welding the front will work. The axle will disconnect when shifted back into two wheel drive and the front driveshaft will turn.

Oh yeah the whole thing sucks ass if you don't put in a method for manually controlling the vacuum. You can get a switch to do it off old waggys or hit up an industrial supply, make sure you get one for vacuum and not pressure though.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
ok, guys, sorry about the pissed off post but i just wasnt getting much information from you guys except for the fact that stock axles suck and they'll blow up.

That said, One of the first posts after my pissed off comments was what i was looking for. Thank you ToocoolforschoolTJ for your reply about the Super 35. This is the kindof information that I'm lookin for, Not just replies about the fact that stock axles suck, I need information on what to do about it. The super 35 will probably work fine for me, I'll probably look into that or maybe the D44 or 8.8.

As for axles now, What vehicles would the 8.8 be found in, especially if it could come with posi? What would i need to do to install this on my jeep? How much money would i be looking to spend on one?

I need help not critisism. I dont need to know that my axles suck, I need to know what to do about it, options, advice, or help.

Thank you for the guys that were able to give me some insight on why not to weld up the diff, I'll use your experience and knowledge to my; advantage, I believe in the whole learning from the mistakes of others thing.

OK, i feel better now, i think i'll have a beer and go to bed.

Thanks for the help guys,

Jesse
 
For fucks sake dude, do a fucking search! Yeah, it takes time, and ya, it's not as easy as asking, but your sitting on a soft chair, downing your favorite beverage. How much work is it to do a few extra clicks with your mouse again? You come to a hardcore rockcrawling website were most people only have a stock frame and body left on their rigs, if that, and wonder why they tell you stock shit sucks? There is so much info on the web its not even funny! Type in "ford 8.8 swap" on google. How many different write ups did you find? The first two pages for me.
 
Your driving style dictates what you can and cant do with your axles. If your real easy on the gas I've heard of people getting away with 33 inch tires on the d35 with welded spider gears. Personally I wouldn't spend any money on the 35, the housing is too week, the carier too small and the gears too small, let alone the shafts, especially not with anything other than stock tires. Thats why I have an 8.8. With 33's and moderate wheeling the d30 can be pretty reliable even with a locker. From what I've heard, general rule of thumb is that you weld rear spiders and not the front ones. Otherwise, your turning radius will be crap and you'll put a lot of un-needed stress on drivetrain components. I have an arb in the d30 and with it engaged the power steering hates me and doesn't want to turn at all. Be carefull with the easy-locker deals. You get what you pay for. A buddy of mine killed a detroit easy-locker in a couple thousand of miles with the stock doughnut sized tires. It performed impressive offroad, but handled horribly on the road and made all kinds of pops and bangs all the time. Supposedly the lunch box lockers are more reliable up front because they are not used all the time. If your dead set on having better traction, install an 8.8 in the rear and weld the spider gears, and then install a lunchbox locker in the front. Check the spider gears periodically to makes sure they haven't started cracking.
 
Sounds like a bunch of hearsay. Yeah, there not as friendly as open diffs or ARB's. My lockright in the rear never caused it to handle funny. If you got on the gas at the right time around the bend, you can really scare the shit out of unsuspecting passengers, but besides that and a few clicks now and then, nothing.
 
Depends on your junk Otto. I have a friend that hates his Detroit, and one that has only heard one click, one time, ever, out of his...

1slowyj, I suggest you git a purr uh 406s and be done with it! But I wouldn't weld the spiders. A daily driver with a 30 permanently locked in the front sux and beggs for broken parts. Either lunch-box it or get a selectable and learn.
 
Christ almighty.....you asked about welding up a front D30.....not "what the hell can i do about the weak-ass 35 in the rear"

DONT weld the 30, it will break. Install a lunchbox, or if your rich, install a selectable......or avoid the hassle and put an axle under it that will support what you want to do to it.

Period, end of story.
 
I don't think there's anyone on this board that didn't start wheeling with some kind of stock rig... we didn't just decide to build up some beefy rig or tube buggy with rockwells one day and go wheeling.

You might not want to hear it, but the stock axles in your rig ARE weak... now, it's not a question of whether they will hold up if you weld or lock them, it's a question of how long.

If you don't want to spend the money on a locker for the front, then weld it up and convert the vacuum disco to a cable actuated thingy. I can tell you from experience that it won't be as reliable and having a non-disconnect axle and a lunchbox locker, but it will work and you'll be able to turn when offroad.

As far as the 35 goes, don't bother doing ANYTHING to it... throw it in the trash and get a D44, 8.8 or hell even a chrysler 8.25 and put whatever locker you choose in it and have fun wheeling and not worrying about breaking a rear shaft. :)

We've all been there, spent the money on turd polishing, been upset by people telling us what we had was junk, etc, etc... we lived and learned, and we're trying to help you not do the same thing we did. Whether you take the advice is up to you...
 
NotMatt said:
As far as the 35 goes, don't bother doing ANYTHING to it... throw it in the trash and get a
SNIP
, 8.8 or hell even a
SNIP
and put whatever locker you choose in it and have fun wheeling and not worrying about breaking a rear shaft. :)

I agree 100%


The 8.8"s are in 1995-200? explorers and can damn near be bolted into YJs.
 
Forget what people are suggesting as alternatives... the point here is that people have been there and done that or seen it done and seen what happens. You might not want to hear it, but people just don't want to see you 1) waste time and money or 2) break your DD because you did something they have seen can cause problems.

If you're just an occasional offroader, leave it open and carry a tow strap. If you really wheel on trails that make you want the extra traction of a locker, people are telling you to save your money and time by upgrading to handle that when you can afford to do something that will last.

Oh, and I didn't see where anyone was busting on your 4-cyl... seen lots of respectable trail rigs with those.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Thank you guys, i've now got the point, I wasnt at all doubting your experience or knowledge, I just simply wanted alternatives. I just asked about welding the d30, pros and cons. Simple enough, it just turned into to much of a shit on my axles post for me to get any info about anything.

As for the axle swap, I'm interested in the 8.8, would it be a wider axle, what gear ratios did it come with, i know i will have to change gears to match my front axle. I'm thinking about going 4.88's. hoping to gain some better drivability on the highway.

Thanks for the help FINALLY!!

Thanks guys,

Jesse
 
If I am not msitaken the 8.8 is 3/4 of an inch narrower on each side, so an inch and a half total....not a big deal. It came with gears as high as 4.10, and the highest you can install is 4.88...it would be a good mod for you and give you a reliable axle. If you're installing gears save up and install a locker at the same time, it can handle it as long as you don't go too big with tires.
 
the 8.8 you want is found in 91-02 explorers. they have tubes that dwarf the pixie sticks used on dana 35's and 44's.
The pinion gear has the same diameter of a dana 60, and the shafts are bigger than that of a stock 60, at 1.32"
The 95 and later axles will have disc brakes.
gear ratios varry from 2.75's to 5.13's. stock you will find 3.27's, 3.55's, 3.73's, or 4.10's, with a trak lock being rather common.
 
What about 9s? You can find a good 9 just about anywhere. What do you think about that guys? Mini spools are rediculously cheap for the Ford 9 also.
 
Good said:
What about 9s? You can find a good 9 just about anywhere. What do you think about that guys? Mini spools are rediculously cheap for the Ford 9 also.
I doubt you'd find one narrow enough (most of them available now are from fullsize trucks), and the pinion axle is pretty bad for a short wheelbase like a YJ
 
bremen242 said:
I doubt you'd find one narrow enough (most of them available now are from fullsize trucks), and the pinion axle is pretty bad for a short wheelbase like a YJ
Yeah, I just almost bought a '67 EB and it had a narrow 9 in it. I also have one under a fullsize though. What about the high pinions? I think some racing company has put 44 spline axles in them... That would be awesome for a front...
 
I'm running 39.5 Swampers in a stock dana 30 CJ axle w/ lockright. Ran some 8 and 9 trials at Big Dogs in Gore, Va with no breakage. (no winching either) It's not all about the throttle; use your brain and have a good spotter and you can run 'em with no breakage. Oh, did I mention I still have the AMC 20 Detroited in the rear!!!
 
Good said:
Yeah, I just almost bought a '67 EB and it had a narrow 9 in it. I also have one under a fullsize though. What about the high pinions? I think some racing company has put 44 spline axles in them... That would be awesome for a front...
Currie makes a high pinion, but they are only 8.8" ring gears..

Hi-9 makes a sweet hi-pinion true 9" setup.. I believe you can put 40 spline in their case...
 
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