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Discussion Starter #1
Can I use PVC pipe for lines to send the coolant to the rear radiator? Or should I stick with Al or Copper or something else? Does PVC melt under the heat of the coolant? My buggy has never run over around 150* or so. Will the pressure burst the pipe? Or will the heat be too much?
 

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No one else asked so i just have to.

YOUR JOKING RIGHT!?!?!?!?
 

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Mcsoo....exahust tubing...pvc will burst and get soft....just make sure you keep the radiator cap at the high point....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sheesh. I was just askin! I gotta get some exhaust tubing to make the new exhaust, so I'll pick up a little extra for the radiator. :)
 

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McSoo said:
Can I use PVC pipe for lines to send the coolant to the rear radiator? Or should I stick with Al or Copper or something else? Does PVC melt under the heat of the coolant? My buggy has never run over around 150* or so. Will the pressure burst the pipe? Or will the heat be too much?
Go to the store and look at some sched 40. It'll have some print on the side that says something like [email protected] degrees. Make sure to read the print though, because not all pvc is for pressure, some is for waste and pressure rated.
 

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PVC? cmon now... got with some high zoot aluminum tube.. that way it can handle the pressure/heat and cool the fluid at the same time. :D polish that chit up to, so its blingy bling bling! :grinpimp:

j
 

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It will hold up to the pressure just fine. Some shops use PVC to route their compressed air system. Cooling system is going to see about 40 PSI pump flow pressure and around 7 - 15 PSI cap pressure.
 

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You've stepped to a whole new low of booty fab just by asking this question. I think the gold paint has finally gotten to you. Go get some fresh air.
 

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I dont think it's such a bad question. I have formerly USED pvc pipe for guiding water to the radiator in the back. That was when I had enough room to keep it tucked away from sand and rocks. It worked very well, did not melt, did not burst. I payed attention to what specs it had before buying.
 

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pmurf1 said:
You've stepped to a whole new low of booty fab just by asking this question. I think the gold paint has finally gotten to you. Go get some fresh air.
:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: You know that's right.........
 

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Now that you've thought about it for a day, how do you feel? I know having little Elfy gone far away and leaving you to booty fab for the two of you if tough for a couple like you were. :rainbow: :flipoff2:


















Schedule 80 would work if you really are going to do this. My only concern would be the joints/glue holding up. That and how you would repair it on the trail. Aside from the odd looks you'd get for running PVC the first time, you would then have to endure those same looks as you pulled out the fittings, primer, and glue to make the repair. Just get some thin wall steel tube and use that if you're gonna do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey, someone has to continue the booty fab! He had enough booty fab on the popemobile to cover everyone in the state of AZ.. Those are hard shoes to fill! I gotta come up with new and exciting ways of freaking out everyone here. The spring under is a start, but it's just not enough. Maybe the PVC for the radiator will be enough for the next couple months... :p :flipoff2:
 

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i wouldn't do it my self. if you have ever seen a piece of pvc that had been exposed to the sun for a while you know why i wouldn't do it. i don't think the question is too far out there thoe. i see lots of plastic radiators. might not be "pvc" but they last. mine have always failed at the connection from the plastic end cap to the al fins.
 

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PVC max. working temp is 140F, at this point it is derated to 0.22 it's rating at 73F.

CPVC max. working temp is 200F, at this point it is derated to 0.20 it's rating at 80F.

Neither sounds like a good choice to me, even if you use a PVC product with UV stabilizers to resists solar degradation.
 

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PVC could handle the pressure and heat. I have an orchard with 900 trees. I have used miles of the stuff. At a constant 95psi, many sections exposed to the sun, i have had only one leak. *nock on wood*

The problem is not so mutch the pvc, its the use in a vehicle. Vibration and hard plastic tube simply do not mix. You will encounter cracks in a hearbeat. This problem is increased with thicker sch. tube. The glues you can use are not designed to allow even the slightest amount of give. Instead, it will simply fail. Joints will pop out of place with the first pothole you hit. This problem is even worse when you heat up the pvc, making it softer, and is then filled with pressure.

This is why exaust tube is used :D
You can bend the stuff w/o glued joints. It will not melt, crack and it will help dissipate heat.
 

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I tried it to see if my water pump would flow well to my rear mounted radiator and it worked for about ten minutes, then it got soft and the joints that had hose clamps constricted and the hoses started shooting off. That was at about 200F.
 

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If you are going to build it from Lowe's at least use electrical conduit. You can even get one of those hand benders.
 
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