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Discussion Starter #1
I think I'm getting a q-jet. My performer doesn't cut it... <IMG SRC="smilies/mad.gif" border="0"> I found one that someone is willing to give me. It needs a rebuild. No sweat <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

I have an edelbrock intake. The one for idle up to 5000 or so rpm's.
Anyway, has anyone put a q-jet on one of these intakes? I've never seen a q-jet on a truck and don't know if it needs the steel fuel line or if my rubber fuel line with inline fuel filter will work? Anyone with pics of theirs on their truck? Any tricks I should know about when rebuilding this one?
 

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In my opinion, the Q-jet is the only way to go. The problem with them is that they need to be in good mechanical condition to work properly and not all cores are good candidates for a rebuild. Take a look at the Jet Performance Q-jets if you want a quality rebuild that is semi-tailored to your engine specs. If you have the cash, step up to the Edelbrock Performer RPM Q-jet. It is an all new casting, with electric choke that kicks ass right out of the box. I run one on my big block and didn't do any more than adjust the mixture and idle speed. It idle at pretty much any angle and has no problem making power up to 5000 RPM on my Performer 2-O intake.
 

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q-jets are a bit better at idle when the angle gets crazy. I would not rebuild one. If you need to go on the cheap (as i do) a kragen's remanufactured one work well. just make sure the manifold is for a spreadbore and not a squarebore, or you will need an adapter. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
-zakk
 

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Originally posted by zakk:
<STRONG>q-jets are a bit better at idle when the angle gets crazy. I would not rebuild one. If you need to go on the cheap (as i do) a kragen's remanufactured one work well. just make sure the manifold is for a spreadbore and not a squarebore, or you will need an adapter. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
-zakk</STRONG>
I WILL NEVER buy a rebuilt carb from any chain stores. I have been burned twice with these. I got one because I had excessive play in the shafts. I was in a hurry so I got one of the rebuilts. The first one had a stuck float. second one had choke linkage problems and more wear than the one I was replacing and the third one I got to work but ended up having to open it up and fix a float problem and filing a warped housing that was making the doors hang.
If you do mistakenly go get one of these rebuilds and they walk out with a box that says Holly on it with a rebuilt Q-Jet in it grab your old carb and RUN! I went through this same deal a couple times. The Holly rebuilds are about the worst I have seen.
Rebuilding a Q-Jet is no big deal. Just pay attention to the way it comes apart. JB weld the casting plugs in the bottom of the float bowl. If you have excessive play in the shaft take it to a place that can put in some sleaves. When you set the float level you need to press down on the piviot for the float. If you try to set it with it just sitting the pivot will lift a little and give you an incorrect reading.
 

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If you have a Performer series manifold you are good to go. This is a good combo on a 350, even better if you throw a performer cam in as well. I have a Q-jet perf intake and perf cam in my 383 and am very happy with the power it has. Q-jet is the best carb for a 4x4 but just my .02
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here's a good pic of the intake I'm running
http://wsphotofews.excite.com/013/Uz/zu/tX/rD14163.jpg
(I don't know why a pic will show up, then all of the sudden it won't show.... <IMG SRC="smilies/mad.gif" border="0"> )

The motor is a 383 stroker with a 290 cam.

[ 10-02-2001: Message edited by: Muddin ]
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Grim...when I get this one, I'll prolly be picking your brain a lot. Q-jets scare me cause it's new territory for me. I rebuild a Holley once, but I basically did the basic rebuild. I didn't mess with the jets or needles and have heard horror stories about those...LOL!
But I've never even seen a Q-jet in person let alone on the motor. LOL!
I guess when I get the carb and the rebuild kit the diagram it will give will help out a lot.
But I've been burned on rebuilds too. Like an 800 dolla carb (California truck). Never did get it right so I got and edelbrock and had put it on there when I had that particular truck.
 

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My q-jet must have been in REALLY bad shape cuz the new reman. is about 10x better than the one i had. I have a mechanic buddy and he helpped on Wrench Day and said it looked and ran fine. I might have gotten a good one <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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I bought one of those Holley rebuilds for roughly $130 and it has run great. At least 10X better than the one it replaced, like the last guy said. I had a shop stick oneof those pyrometers in the tailpipe and tune it for me, and it runs great.

I love those BIG SECONDARIES too, even if the jeep doesn't go fast. <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">
 

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What part of Texas are you in muddin If you are close to where I am I can help you. Only takes about 2.5 hours including soak time as long as the throttle shafts are in good shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm 60 miles southwest of ft worth
 

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Thats a little far I am about 60 miles north of Amarillo
 

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Originally posted by Muddin:
<STRONG>Grim...when I get this one, I'll prolly be picking your brain a lot. Q-jets scare me cause it's new territory for me. I rebuild a Holley once, but I basically did the basic rebuild. I didn't mess with the jets or needles and have heard horror stories about those...LOL!
But I've never even seen a Q-jet in person let alone on the motor. LOL!
I guess when I get the carb and the rebuild kit the diagram it will give will help out a lot.
But I've been burned on rebuilds too. Like an 800 dolla carb (California truck). Never did get it right so I got and edelbrock and had put it on there when I had that particular truck.</STRONG>
No Problem. You know how to find me. Just don't be looking for me after today. I'll be wheeling Tellico and won't be online till monday.
Quad is easy. Not a bunch of meetering plates like the hogly. The worst part is getting the choke linkages appart. Be SURE to make index marks on the coke dial if you have a electric one or a hot air style so that you can get it back where it was on reassemebly. Have a nice big area to work where you can lay the parts out. Pay close attention to small parts and check balls. There is also a spring on the shaft that the main jet meeting rods hang on. It's about 2.5 inches tall and about 3.8 diameter be sure that you don't loose that. It's in the tower that the arms that the meetering rods hang off and it is what gives resistance to Vac that controls how far the meetering rods lift. That little spring is critical and bending it will effect the way it runs. Be very carefull with it.
DO NOT REMOVER THE SCREWS THAT HOLD THE FOUR BUTTERFLY'S IN THE BASE. Leave them installed. The threads are bunged at the factory to lock them in and if you remove them it will need to be done again. Check where the rods go through the base for play if it's excessive they need sleaves. You should not really feel much at all. THis will cause vac leaks and give you fits when getting the carb adjusted if there is a lot of slop.
Get a gallon can of carb cleaner. The body will not fit in the can. Cut off the top of a old antifreez jug and pour the cleaner in it. You can get the body in it. you will have to flip it over once to get it all cleaned. Be sure to take some air and blow out ALL the ports after removing the primary jets. The cam (top of carb between the 2 doors) for the secondaries is plastic and needs to be removed before soaking. some carb cleaners will eat it so fair warning.
The rebuild kit will come with a listing of all the carbs by number on the side of the housing. Find yours and set the choke level to what it lists. just be sure to push down on the ROD that the float pivots on.
Also do not forget to JBweld those casting plugs. Most rebuild kits will also tell you this in the instructions. Leaks at those point will let the fuel bowl empty over night and give you problems starting. If they leak bad they can make the truck run rich.
When you get it all together manualy pop the choke loose so that it opens. give it one full throttle pump and make sure the choke sets. Run the idle screws all the way till they bottom. BECAREFULL not to over tighten. the springs give some resistance so pay attention to the feel. You can over tighten them and damage the seats. Give them 1.5 turns out. That should be enough to get it fired.
Set the idle stop screw for the choke (on the passenger side choke likages) till it idles about 900 rpm. let it warm after about 2-3 minutes the idle speed should increase to about 1100. Blip the throttle and the choke should drop at least to the second stop if not all the way (depends on the air temp). Once the choke is fully off hook a vac gage to the port on the side next to the choke linkage where the Thermac for the air cleaner plugs in. Set your out of gear idle (driverside idle stop screw on side of casting) to about 650 RPM. Adjust one idle mix screw one at a time in or out till you get the highest vac reading on the gage. Do the same for the other side. The motor should run smooth and idle up. Reset the idle speed if it has changed a lot and double check that your pulling the most vac. You will need to blip the throttle a couple times durring adjusting to make sure it stays the same. Once your pulling the most vac give both screws about a 1/8 turn clockwise to lean it a little at idle and prevent it from loading up. You should see between 18-20hg on the gage depending on the condition of the motor. If you see less than 18 look for vac leaks. If your down around
Have somebody hold the brakes and put it in gear and check the ingear idle speed. Adjust it to about 550-600. If the motor is tight it should idle just fine and smooth. If when you get the vac adjusted your seeing a bouncing vac needle thats a sign of valv problems like a stuck valve or a valve not opening all the way. You should see between 18-20hg on the gage depending on the condition of the motor and cam. Stock or midle RV cam should be around 19hg If you see less than 18 look for vac leaks. If your down around 16 and no vac leaks you need to do a compression test or a better yet a bleed down test. something aint right or you have a massive intake leak.
Take it for a ride and see how it does. Romp on it a few times. If it bogs then you need to tighten the spring on the seconds at the hinge on the passenger side rear of the carb.
Should run like a scolded dog. Find some place where you can get the nose way up and check to see if it idles. Now on a Hoglly you have to lower the float level to fix that. On a quad you have to raise it. On a quad the problem is the main jets are in the front of the bowl. The fuel will roll to the back leaving them sucking air. If you made the correct adjustment of the float it should be fine and idle up to about 45deg no problem.
 

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Grim thanks for the info I will try this myself. My Q-jet is hissing and has vac at all ports at idle. People tell me it is an internal vac leak, prob warped = junk <IMG SRC="smilies/mad.gif" border="0"> I put this carb on so I must have tightened it down too much. My truck is a 75, a guy was telling me to get a newer Q-jet from a pass car around a 79. He says they were better carbs... ?? what do you think? any info on this?
 
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