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Discussion Starter #1
OK...I'm building a 1978 Ford HP60 with kingpins for my TJ. I still have the NP231. I'm wanting to narrow it from 69.5" WMS-WMS to 65" WMS-WMS. This is the D60 with a little bit longer driver's side tube than the later years had. I need to remove 4.5". If anyone has done this, will I be looking at just the long side (pass. side) needing shortened, or a little from both sides. I know I need to keep the diff in app. the same location as the D30. I have to wait until the ground dries up to drag the donor truck home, so I don't have it here to take measurements. I was just wondering if anyone who has done this might know what I need to do. Thanks in advance for your help. Dave
 

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why in the world would you narrow it....

stock parts are way easy to come by.

if your worried about width just run 8" rims with 4" backspacing and it will be fine.

:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
1cdub said:
why in the world would you narrow it....

stock parts are way easy to come by.

if your worried about width just run 8" rims with 4" backspacing and it will be fine.

:rolleyes:
It's already going to stick out quite a bit at 65" with my tube fenders being so small. Also, the rear is already at 65". The woods trails that I run on are pretty narrow and I drive it on the road occasionally. Dave
 

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I went with 62" on the same 78-9 HP Ford axel for my TJ.
4.5" BS on 9" rims with 13.5" wide Krawlers.
It's a comp. rig and those cones get awfully narrow ...
Should come out to around 78" outside with the rule book allowing a max. of 80".
Cut a couple of inches of the short side and the rest off the long.
It is cheaper to shorten only the long side but in a lot of cases helps to move the pumpkin over a little more on the short side to get more drive shaft / trannie clearance.
 

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Yes you could narrow just the short side but I doubt that will work out. What you need to determine is how far apart center to center are the front springs going to be. Once you know that you can then work from there. So place the drivers side as close to the punkin as you can get away with and then place the other side where it needs to go and that will tell you how much needs to be cut off each side. Example: if your springs are 31.5" apart and that is what the splings were on that front end then you will cut the same off each side. If you don't want to place you spring on the old spring pad and would rather shift the punkin one way or the other then you will have or or less to cut off one side then the other. Hope that makes sence.
The inner axles in that 60 are junk and cannot be cut and resplined so keep that in mind. Yoe will need new inner axles reguardless.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
66CJdean said:
The inner axles in that 60 are junk and cannot be cut and resplined so keep that in mind. Yoe will need new inner axles reguardless.
Whoa...I hadn't heard that before. I was planning on reusing them. Why are they junk? I was also planning on staying with the 30 outers for now also. Keep in mind that this isn't a high horsepower rig. I have the stock 4.0 with the auto tranny and will be on 37" Boggers with 4.88 gears and a detroit. Thanks. Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Jaffer said:
I went with 62" on the same 78-9 HP Ford axel for my TJ.
4.5" BS on 9" rims with 13.5" wide Krawlers.
It's a comp. rig and those cones get awfully narrow ...
Should come out to around 78" outside with the rule book allowing a max. of 80".
Cut a couple of inches of the short side and the rest off the long.
It is cheaper to shorten only the long side but in a lot of cases helps to move the pumpkin over a little more on the short side to get more drive shaft / trannie clearance.
Did you change the pinion angle or caster? Thanks, Dave
 

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selph said:
Did you change the pinion angle or caster? Thanks, Dave
Yes, we put it under there and determined the spring height, pinion angle and yoke placement in relation to drive line clearance and the transfer case.
Then we determined coil placment and how much to cut off each end.
It got a shave, the ends chopped and 8* positive caster built in when the 'C's were welded back on.
 

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selph said:


Whoa...I hadn't heard that before. I was planning on reusing them. Why are they junk? I was also planning on staying with the 30 outers for now also. Keep in mind that this isn't a high horsepower rig. I have the stock 4.0 with the auto tranny and will be on 37" Boggers with 4.88 gears and a detroit. Thanks. Dave
early d60's had same 11/2" 35 spline inners as late model 60's but the inners neck down- you can't shorten and respline them when you narrow the housing and the inners are weaker because of the reduced diameter in the middle of the axle.
 

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I just narrowed a HP44 1976 down to fit my TJ.
After a lot of mesureing I found out I needed to take
an equal amount off from both sides!
I took 2in's off both sides and my D-shaft is dead center
with the T-case!
Also by cutting both sides you get to set your caster & pinion angle.
My frt shaft is completely straight and I got 6 degrees of caster.
It's my understanding the short side D60 (later years)
workout perfect all you need to cut is the long side to get 64in's?
But setting caster & pinion angle arnt there, but should not
even be a problem.
I'm the 1st kid on my block to run a 33 spline HP44 up frt:flipoff2:
If this happens to fail I plan on stickin the D60 outters on that
I have left over from the HP60 that I hacked up for the rear.
This may work out well with the 33 spline Detroit up frt.
Anyway keep your frt shaft where it should be to avoid any
flex issues!
Where da hell is Bunker Hill? I'm in IL also, near Kankakee.
BTW I have a HP60 for sale ;)
Also have a very well equiped shop:D
GWT
 

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selph said:


Whoa...I hadn't heard that before. I was planning on reusing them. Why are they junk? I was also planning on staying with the 30 outers for now also. Keep in mind that this isn't a high horsepower rig. I have the stock 4.0 with the auto tranny and will be on 37" Boggers with 4.88 gears and a detroit. Thanks. Dave
they neck down alot, hence why they can't be resplined.
 

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I don't see how your IL tree trails could be any more tight then the PNW trails we have.. I'm running 69" WMS front D60 w/ 15x10 8" BS wheels and it's FINE. Don't worry about the goddamn width so much, you'll love the stability.

-J
 

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Discussion Starter #15
xBabyJesus said:
I don't see how your IL tree trails could be any more tight then the PNW trails we have.. I'm running 69" WMS front D60 w/ 15x10 8" BS wheels and it's FINE. Don't worry about the goddamn width so much, you'll love the stability.

-J
Actually, I run on my own trail most of the time. It's extremely tight. I can always cut a few trees, but a lot of the creeks and runoff ditches are really narrow. I'm learning more about this swap every day by checking out these boards. Right now my plan is keeping full width, going with stock backspacing Hummer wheels to get rid of some of the width, and drive flanges to get rid of the hubs sticking out. I also plan on a detroit and 35 spline inners and outers. Dave
 

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I think you'd be time and money ahead by picking up an '85-92 Ford Dana 60 front. You will be able to shorten the long side to get get the width you're looking for and you can respline the long shaft if you take at least ~4" (I don't remember the exact dimension and I don't have one out to measure) off.

In case you didn't know it the '85 and laters have a 36" spring perch dimension, with the same track width. That pushes the pumpkin over to the drivers side by about 2".

Just a thought but you might be able to take your '79 housing and cut the short side to the same as an '85 and use the stock inner. You may be able to respline a stock '85-'92 long side depending on how much you shorten the long side.

Good Luck.
 

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Also by cutting both sides you get to set your caster & pinion angle.

Yeah, I've done it both ways and I agree hands down that you end up with a better result when you just cut the housing to be EXACTLY what you need, and get custom shafts rather than "settling" for something that's close. That way you don't have to worry about outboarding, tranny pan clearance, track width, or anything like that. It just works better.
 

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Yeah, I've done it both ways and I agree hands down that you end up with a better result when you just cut the housing to be EXACTLY what you need, and get custom shafts rather than "settling" for something that's close. That way you don't have to worry about outboarding, tranny pan clearance, track width, or anything like that. It just works better.
This being said, the '85 up ford housing does work out excellent for a wrangler if you just narrow the long side. Ends up about 63" WMS. I narrowed my 60 housing to what would be EXACTLY what I needed, and was within .125" on the short side of being stock '85 up Ford 60.
 
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