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Discussion Starter #1
I finally got he 8.8 under the YJ, and now I'm about ready to gear it to match the front.

Since I'm going with 4.56 gears, I was told that I needed either a notched pin, or I would need to cut the ring teeth.

I'm kinda hesitante to cut on the ring gear, but would the notched pin be a serious weak spot???

Thanks!
 

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I've seen someone grind the teeth on the ring gear for the crosspin. He has 4.88's. Hasn't been a problem since it wasn't ground on the contact patch.

Another way to prevent this is to install a Detroit. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok, I tink I'll try to go with shaving the teeth. Thanks for the info

btw...300 posts!!! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> hehe
 

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Shaved my teeth with a Dremel. No problems, I would have gone with a notched cross pin, but I didn't know I'd need it to reinstall the c-clips and by then it was too late.
One more thing is that I am told the only time that is necessary is for 4.57 & up. The 4.10 & down works fine.

[ 09-18-2001: Message edited by: CaptainFleXJ151 ]
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I talked with Randy's R&P and West Coast Differential, and both said with 4.56 I'd need a notched pin, or I'd have to cut the teeth
 

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I have 4.56 and a Detroit in my 8.8 with no grinding. <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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Randys sells those "Notched" pins and claims they are just as strong as stock

my .02
 

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Before I bought the 4.88s for my 8.8 I called all the major gear retailers. Only one mentioned the crosspin (the one who sold them), all others said to grind the teeth-that this was actually fairly common and there was no need to worry about strength.

I also called ARB, and they said they've installed MANY 4.88s in 8.8s and ground the teeth without problems.

I haven't had any problems with my shaved teeth.

Charly
 

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With a Detroit the pin comes notched on one side to facilitate the installation, and is no problem. Even if you decide to grind the gears, it is not in a stress area, and will not weaken the assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm not really worried about the gears. What I was mainly wondering was if I got the notched pin, would the pin be a serious weakness.

I'm probably going to have the gears grinded though, but I'll talk with the shop doing the install first
 

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The pin should not be a concerne. Its only job, is to keep the axle shafts from sliding inward so that the C clips can be removed. It has no other structural duties.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ok, thanks for the info!
 

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you guys are talking about shaving the far end of the pinion gear in an 8.8 for clearance issues? that won't hurt anything. you're not heating the metal enough to change the temper, and the far end of the pinion doesn't even engage the ring gear. who cares bout shaving it? it doesn't change a dayumned thing in the way the gears perform, it just lets them fit right.

heh. use your fawkin heads <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by WillyPete:
<STRONG>you guys are talking about shaving the far end of the pinion gear in an 8.8 for clearance issues? that won't hurt anything. you're not heating the metal enough to change the temper, and the far end of the pinion doesn't even engage the ring gear. who cares bout shaving it? it doesn't change a dayumned thing in the way the gears perform, it just lets them fit right.

heh. use your fawkin heads <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Geeee, Thanks newbie, but actually its the ring gear not the pinion gear. In any case it still doesnt make a dayumned bit of difference, but that had already been mentioned. Geeez use your fawkin head, uhhh,and your fawkin eyes.
But thanks anyway for bringing so much more to the discussion. <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by H8monday:
<STRONG>The pin should not be a concerne. Its only job, is to keep the axle shafts from sliding inward so that the C clips can be removed. It has no other structural duties.</STRONG>
Er..H8...lemme see... how does the torque get from the ring gear/carrier to the axle shafts? I'm just trying to use my fawkin head here ... <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by kutyafal:
<STRONG>Er..H8...lemme see... how does the torque get from the ring gear/carrier to the axle shafts? I'm just trying to use my fawkin head here ... <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
I was using the Detroit as an example. In a full carrier locker there are no spider gears being supported by the shaft. In an open diff, or lunch box locker, then you would have some load present at the cross pin.
Way to use your fawkin head, keep up the good work. <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">
 

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We poor jeepers who have to by our own lunch (box lockers) forgot about the virtues of the Holy Ditroit. We not worthy. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"> However, I thought the Ditroit doesn't even have a crosspin like a regular carrier ? Back to ya! <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 
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