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Discussion Starter #1
i have been looking for some SRE to complete my steering on the my 60hp...having some questions on these....

POISON SPYDER
http://www.spydercustoms.com/index2.html?use_page=parts.html (go to steering link)
3/4-16 Right Heim (40,572 lbs)
$29.50 AEXMR10-12 (USES 5/8" BOLT)

POLY PERFORMANCE
http://polyperformance.com/rod_ends.htm
3/4-16 Right Heim (16,565 lbs)
$23.00 PP-XM10T (USES 5/8" BOLT)

from looking at the static loads i would pick the PS ones first...however when looking at the SRE it doesn't have much clearance...so on my draglink i would most likely need spacers to get the movement out of it...

the PP ones have a spacer type built into them already...so this would eliminate that issue, however the static load drops 24,000 lbs on those...


questions...
does adding the spacers to the SRE decrease teh strength?

is the static load so low on teh PP ones due to the built in spacer?

lastly...screw SRE and go with TRE?

i plan on running these double shear...this is on a 91yj...i am putting the tierod behind the axle and the drag link on the pass in front (obviously)...

i have done plenty of searches and read tons of this info...learned alot...but cant figure out what to do here...thanks guys...k
 

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PurdueYJ said:
lastly...screw SRE and go with TRE?
I agree. I went with TRE and it was much easier than I had thought. I bought the crossover arm from Roggy and he reamed the arm for a chevy TRE and I took my stock pitman arm and borrowed a TRE reamer (Thanks again!!) and done. Now I have 4 identical TRE's on the front of the cruiser. So that translates into less spares on the trail. Before I had 1 kind on the tie rod, 1 on the drag link and a different 1 on the pitman arm side.
 

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Re: Re: quick ? about SRE

GloNDark said:


I agree. I went with TRE and it was much easier than I had thought. I bought the crossover arm from Roggy and he reamed the arm for a chevy TRE and I took my stock pitman arm and borrowed a TRE reamer (Thanks again!!) and done. Now I have 4 identical TRE's on the front of the cruiser. So that translates into less spares on the trail. Before I had 1 kind on the tie rod, 1 on the drag link and a different 1 on the pitman arm side.
I'd look at switching to Drag Link Ends for the drag link, I know it's an extra set of Ends to deal with but I used TRE's for the Drag Link, big mistake cost me a steering box and a long trip out of the Con. The TRE's do not have enough misalignment to handle the angles my drag sees and was exerting force on the sector shaft and trying to rip the box off the frame.
 

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Re: Re: Re: quick ? about SRE

jdjanda said:
I'd look at switching to Drag Link Ends for the drag link, I know it's an extra set of Ends to deal with but I used TRE's for the Drag Link, big mistake cost me a steering box and a long trip out of the Con. The TRE's do not have enough misalignment to handle the angles my drag sees and was exerting force on the sector shaft and trying to rip the box off the frame.
The TRE's I put on my cruiser actually had waaaay more flex than the Heims I was using before. But then again wasn't using the high mis-alignment ones either. How much more flex do you get out of the high mis-alignment ends?
 

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Re: Re: Re: Re: quick ? about SRE

GloNDark said:


The TRE's I put on my cruiser actually had waaaay more flex than the Heims I was using before. But then again wasn't using the high mis-alignment ones either. How much more flex do you get out of the high mis-alignment ends?
Old Scout has the pic posted in the Binder Section just can't find the dam post. Let's see if he comes to the rescue
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thats what i was thinking....TRE on the tierod and the SRE on the draglink

strength wise...what would be the comparison between the two?

also, my original question...does the bushing to get more angle reduce your strength? or why is the PP ones rated so low?
 

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Ok folks, the issue here is not load rating.... its rod end life which is directly attributed to size of the surface area of the bearing. If a higher load rating was neccessary we would carry them but there not.... so we don't.

This was cut and pasted from another thread:

PIG said:
Nice, the old rod end talk................. I wrote a big old long thingy about the use of smaller vs larger rodends but did a search and couldn't find it. Basically I spoke about surface (of the inner race) area and how it pertained to bearing life and failures. So without writing another, think about it......................... The larger the bearing the more surface area and the longer it will take to develop slop. Almost all of the rod ends (decent quality) out there are more than strong enough as far as the load rating is concerned. The problem with the smaller rod ends is that they become vulnerable to large shock loads when slop is present.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok...so pig yours are strong enough at 16,000 lbs?

THESE ARE POLY PERFORMANCE @ 40,572 lbs


THESE ARE SPYDER @ 16,565 lbs


pig you have a better deal on them...and they have more angle...but that whole strength issue...and you dont look like you have quite as much surface area? help me out bro...
 

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TRE sucka and forget about it :D

I don't see your suspension encountering wacky angles to worrk you about maxing TRE angles.
 

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PurdueYJ said:
nothing else?? pig, any more help?
OK, look at what you just posted pics of..... Comparing a 1.25" rod end with a 3/4"-5/8" rod end. The 3/4"/5/8 we carry look just like avalanches (no misalignment spacers built in) However, we make the spacers that fit a 3/4" bore that then tapper down to a .5" bolt. If you are using this in double shear this will work, if not dont do it. Also, the use of the spacers will allow for delection angles up to 35 degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i didnt realize that your 3/4 were different then the 1.25...figured they were all the same...

so whats the deal with the strength being so different on the two? why are yours 24,000 lbs less?

i dont think i will need spacers...i am doing a 60 front with a 1inch tall hi-steer arm...then with 2" BDS springs...i think i will be fine with teh 12* that the SRE allows...opinions?
 

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PurdueYJ said:
i didnt realize that your 3/4 were different then the 1.25...figured they were all the same...

so whats the deal with the strength being so different on the two? why are yours 24,000 lbs less?

Because you don't need it.... If you want a 40,000 lb 3/4" rod end I will be happy to sell you one but why spend money for the sake of spending money?
 

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PurdueYJ said:
what up bigdude...

so you say to stay with the SRE...anyones you recommend?
I say use regular old rod ends.

I use Chevy 1-ton ends on both drag-link and tie-rod with no problems. This includes bending 2 tie-rods, 1 drag link, and ripping my steering box off the frame. The ends were fine in each case and I've had no problems with maxing angles (we're both leaf sprung so our suspension characteristics will not be radically different). Why throw a $30 end at a $12 problem (I think the Chevy ends are $12-$15 at most every place). The 1-ton ends are plenty strong.

Just my $.02
 

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Discussion Starter #17
pig, that makes plenty of sense...guess i dont know what i need in max strength...???? so 16,000 is plenty on the steering stuff? just using single shear too...


bigdude...can you show me some pics? i would use TRE but then its a little more complicated with getting it beveled...and if something screws on a trail i hate beating TRE out wiht that stupid fork...much easier to unbolt
 

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PurdueYJ said:
bigdude...can you show me some pics? i would use TRE but then its a little more complicated with getting it beveled...and if something screws on a trail i hate beating TRE out wiht that stupid fork...much easier to unbolt
I'll snap photos if you want but they just look like regular ends with a 7/8" shank. To unseat a TRE all you have to do is whack the steering arm 1-2 times with a hammer, no fork needed. Also anyone making quality high steer arms can ream for a TRE just as easily as drilling a hole, or most machine shops can do it if you make your own.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
7/8 shank...so are you using tube adapters? or did you tap it yourself?

i am making the arms myself for it...guess i could ream them still...just seems more hectic or something...seems like most guys are doing teh SREs...

dude, you married yet to that chic? i am getting married next month...crazy stuff
 

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PurdueYJ said:
pig, that makes plenty of sense...guess i dont know what i need in max strength...???? so 16,000 is plenty on the steering stuff? just using single shear too...
It's just in tension/cmpression so yes 16,000 is enough. Also, it depends upon how it is mounted in single shear.... I have seen some scary stuff.
 
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