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Whats up fellows, i'm brand new on here. Got a quick question. I'm in the process of building a 48 cj2 with a 4.3, i'm not slacking in the fabrication and mechanic side of it. What axles would be best to run with? No crawling or deep mud. Looking to run 33's.
Personally I like Scout 800 axles. They are a tad wider, but not by much. Dana 44 rear Dana 30 front. They come in a number of crazy gearing options. And alot of scouts came with the "all wheel drive" option from the factory, so the limited slip lockers are out there.

I've wheeled hard with a pair out of a '68 Scout 800 v8 for the past decade and have never had any issues. Thats wheeling a HEAVY jeep on 35x14.5 SS Boggers. The only down side is that you usually have to wait 2-3 days for your local NAPA to get replacement parts in.
 

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I have a closed knuckle d27 up front right now in excellent shape, its the back i'm worried about. i'm pretty sure it's that crappy d41 in the back. what would be a suitable replacement for the back without spending too much $? The front is a 4.88 ratio.
You can convert the 10-spline D41 to 19-spline D44 axles by changing the side gears if I remember right.

If you could find a complete early cj5 rear D44 with 19-spline axles it would be a little bit of an improvement too. They came factory with 4.88 gears in some versions.

The 2-pc rear axles are the weak point.

You could also convert your D41 to full float using the 19 spline side gears and kit from Herm The Overdrive Guy.

The Dana 41 ring gear isn't that weak, but does have the 10-spine coarse pinion shaft like the very early D44 stuff.

The perfect factory rear axle is the 1970-1971 offset D44 semi-float version with factory 30 spline shafts. Finding them is getting MUCH harder. It is the same width as the D25 or D27
 

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Another quick one...

On a stock flat fender how much does the hood overhang the grill face? I moved mine all around and can't measure it. Just trying to figure out some hood/grill/fender stretch stuff. Thanks.
 

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Another quick one...

On a stock flat fender how much does the hood overhang the grill face? I moved mine all around and can't measure it. Just trying to figure out some hood/grill/fender stretch stuff. Thanks.
Of course, nothing is straight on mine.. but, 3/4" to 1" overhang here.

And my body is flush with the rear crossmember, and my grille is pushed as far forward on the mounting slot as possible.
 

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Face of grill to furthest point on front of hood = 15/16"

A far cry from that 1" previously posted:laughing: My bad.
 

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On my 1" overhang. Thinking about it my hinge bad and which made the hood stick further forward a small bit.


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The grill mounting holes are slotted too. You also have the thickness of the 'gasket' thing between the fender and cowl that can add or subtract a little bit.

I don't think these old girls where built much better than about 1/16-1/8" square. Then add in about 60-70 years of use....
 

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Discussion Starter #33
The grill mounting holes are slotted too. You also have the thickness of the 'gasket' thing between the fender and cowl that can add or subtract a little bit.

I don't think these old girls where built much better than about 1/16-1/8" square. Then add in about 60-70 years of use....
Exactly.


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Discussion Starter #34
So I have my stuck mocked up on a 87 tbi 350. All this LS talk has me thinking. Does anyone know the difference in engine mounts to swap to the LS? I can change the actual mount easy but is the location farther way or closer. Also my current set up has 1" between fan and water pump. Will this be the same / closer or farther?


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Is 45* too much angle for a front shackle? I did some measuring and thats what we decided gave the best flex, and the proper ride height. I have mostly down travel due to ride height
Opinions?
 

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So I have my stuck mocked up on a 87 tbi 350. All this LS talk has me thinking. Does anyone know the difference in engine mounts to swap to the LS? I can change the actual mount easy but is the location farther way or closer. Also my current set up has 1" between fan and water pump. Will this be the same / closer or farther?


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They make adapter motor mount plates that are suppose to work with factory 3-bolt GM mounts. I think you can get them so the bellhousing face is in the same place as the stock SBC.
 

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Is 45* too much angle for a front shackle? I did some measuring and thats what we decided gave the best flex, and the proper ride height. I have mostly down travel due to ride height
Opinions?
My rear shackles are at that or even steeper. I wanted to tuck the frame side mount above the frame. It functionally works just fine. I don't get any odd handling or anything.

Shackles have an effect on spring rate too. I think the steeper the shackle angle the higher the effective spring rate.

In general I think you want the minimum angle at rest that allows the shackle to NOT cam over to full extension at the maximum droop of the suspension. IE you don't want the shackle to be able to get stuck on droop and try to go the other way accidentally.
 
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