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OMG it is a 71.

Thinking of buying the Jeep just to have. It runs and drives and has a clear title. Frame is good too but the floorboards are shot. He's asking a grand for it..
 

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OMG it is a 71.

Thinking of buying the Jeep just to have. It runs and drives and has a clear title. Frame is good too but the floorboards are shot. He's asking a grand for it..
I'd do a little digging to double check the year and get a pic of the rear axle.
It sounds like a good parts donor if nothing else.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
I was welding up everything and my speed kept changing on my welder. I have some shitty welds because i tried to just deal with it. Now i have it fixed. Can i grind the really bad welds off or down and do them again ( on the roll cage ) or will it weaken it to much?
 

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I was welding up everything and my speed kept changing on my welder. I have some shitty welds because i tried to just deal with it. Now i have it fixed. Can i grind the really bad welds off or down and do them again ( on the roll cage ) or will it weaken it to much?
As long as you don't get into the base metal you should be good. Most weld filler is stronger than the host material anyways.

I would take extra time to go a good job grinding down the bad welds. If you get frustrated or find yourself rushing just walk away.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
As long as you don't get into the base metal you should be good. Most weld filler is stronger than the host material anyways.



I would take extra time to go a good job grinding down the bad welds. If you get frustrated or find yourself rushing just walk away.

Thanks. And yes some very good advise.


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This was the best I could find...

CK 200 Torch to 250EX with Photos and Part #'s

No pics. But it you google the thread some pics come up.

Parts here.

CK Worldwide Water-Cooled SafeLoc TIG Connectors w/Fuse Block : Arc-Zone.com, The Welding Accessory Experts

I think you have to get a little hose made up.

What parts are you trying to adapt and what machine? Are going air cooled to air cooled?
So, the adapter that I thought was going to work, didn't work. So then I just did what I probably should have done from the first place. Just popped the hoses off and switched them. :shaking: :mr-t: I didn't realize they would switch easilly, but they did. So, problem solved! Tonight will be my first tig practice :evil:
 

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Discussion Starter #67 (Edited)
I know this is probably childs play for most but I'm am over thinking this or something. To keep a 2 joint system do I need to reset the perches to match the t-case at 4*? or should I go ahead and point it at the T-case and get a dbl cardine type DS? here are my measurements.

i put the angle finder an the yokes to get those measurements
 

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I know this is probably childs play for most but I'm am over thinking this or something. To keep a 2 joint system do I need to reset the perches to match the t-case at 4*? or should I go ahead and point it at the T-case and get a dbl cardine type DS? here are my measurements.

i put the angle finder an the yokes to get those measurements
As you change the pinion angle the t-case angle will change.

If you get me a few more measurements I can do a quick cad model of it and tell you what to change.

I need would need....

Height from the ground to the rear axle centerline
Height from the ground to the rear axle u-joint center
Existing rear pinion angle from the ground plane
Type of rear axle ( for the axle centerline to joint center measurement )

Height from the ground to the t-case output
Existing angle of the U-joint at that output

The distance between the yokes ( the 24" you mentioned should work ).

I can make a model that will allow me to rotate the pinion and track the change to both joint angles. In a perfect world, with no cv, you want those angles to be the same degree but opposite each other.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
As you change the pinion angle the t-case angle will change.



If you get me a few more measurements I can do a quick cad model of it and tell you what to change.



I need would need....



Height from the ground to the rear axle centerline
(9.5")


Height from the ground to the rear axle u-joint center
(10")


Existing rear pinion angle from the ground plane
(9 degrees)


Type of rear axle ( for the axle centerline to joint center measurement )
(Chevy corp 12 bolt)




Height from the ground to the t-case output
(22 3/8")


Existing angle of the U-joint at that output
(4 degrees)




The distance between the yokes ( the 24" you mentioned should work ).
( this is 28.5) the 24 was degrees from ground plane.



I can make a model that will allow me to rotate the pinion and track the change to both joint angles. In a perfect world, with no cv, you want those angles to be the same degree but opposite each other.

Thanks !!


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Discussion Starter #71
Also not sure if it matters but it has no tires and is on jack stand. Also the body is off so it weight is different. If all that matters I'll get new measurements after I get it back together.


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Also not sure if it matters but it has no tires and is on jack stand. Also the body is off so it weight is different. If all that matters I'll get new measurements after I get it back together.


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Having the body off will make a huge difference. Get me some numbers after its setting at ride height give or take an inch.
 

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Also,

Some of the numbers don't jive. If there is about 12.28" of slope on a 28.5" driveline your pinion angle is going to be pretty severe given the measurements of the existing rear axle position.

What angle is your engine/transmission/transfer case mounted at. Most people tend to go 3-6 degrees down sloping to the rear. This following diagram is assuming 3 degrees.



Does that look close? Is the rear pinion that close to parallel to the ground ( only a 1/2" change from axle tube to pinion u-joint center?)
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Also,



Some of the numbers don't jive. If there is about 12.28" of slope on a 28.5" driveline your pinion angle is going to be pretty severe given the measurements of the existing rear axle position.



What angle is your engine/transmission/transfer case mounted at. Most people tend to go 3-6 degrees down sloping to the rear. This following diagram is assuming 3 degrees.







Does that look close? Is the rear pinion that close to parallel to the ground ( only a 1/2" change from axle tube to pinion u-joint center?)

The axle is almost straight. I set the engine with the angle finder on the carb mount and put at 0 it's like 3 to 5 degrees lean down on tranny end


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The axle is almost straight. I set the engine with the angle finder on the carb mount and put at 0 it's like 3 to 5 degrees lean down on tranny end


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I saved the model. We will have to see how the chassis settles when you have it fully weighted with the body.
 

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What kind of heaters are you guys running. It doesn't get that cold down here, but it would be nice sometimes.
A warm hat and a jacket. Maybe some gloves if it gets really cold.

With the windshield up it really isn't that bad. I've driven it when it was 15F and sunny. I survived and boy was I awake when I got to work!
 

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A warm hat and a jacket. Maybe some gloves if it gets really cold.

With the windshield up it really isn't that bad. I've driven it when it was 15F and sunny. I survived and boy was I awake when I got to work!
A warm hat and a jacket. Maybe some gloves if it gets really cold.

I hear ya on that one, its about what I used to before i tore her apart.
 

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What kind of heaters are you guys running. It doesn't get that cold down here, but it would be nice sometimes.
no heater on mine, but then again here in Socal we don't need them really. My mom in Louisiana said they got a little bit of snow last night, haha! That doesn't happen often!
 
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