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I was just thinking about firewall penetrations the other day...

$20 for 1 grommet isn't bad when you consider we spend $1000+ on tires. Guess it depends on how many you need. That said I'd look at Home Depot/Lowes/etc first as well.
 

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Is there an optimum distance or rule of thumb distance between the grill and radiator? My googleing hasn't returned much on this topic.
 

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I've checked Home Depot, in both the plumbing and electrical depts, with no luck. Also checked Tractor Supply with no luck. Lowes is next on the list to check. Not sure what a Menards is, never seen one. Also gonna check our local Ace hardware store, they usually have stuff the big retailers don't stock.

I started laying out my harness the other day, and it looks like the firewall will be penetrated 3 times. $60 to run the wires is steep, but it is what it is.
 

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Is there an optimum distance or rule of thumb distance between the grill and radiator? My googleing hasn't returned much on this topic.
Are you going to run the trans cooler in front of the rad? Power steering cooler? Or do you plan on running remote coolers for those systems?
 

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I've checked Home Depot, in both the plumbing and electrical depts, with no luck. Also checked Tractor Supply with no luck. Lowes is next on the list to check. Not sure what a Menards is, never seen one. Also gonna check our local Ace hardware store, they usually have stuff the big retailers don't stock.

I started laying out my harness the other day, and it looks like the firewall will be penetrated 3 times. $60 to run the wires is steep, but it is what it is.
Yea I agree with that. If 1 was needed it's tolerable but when you start needing multiple it adds up quick.

IIRC Menards is like a HD/Lowes/etc but they don't exist down around us.

Are you going to run the trans cooler in front of the rad? Power steering cooler? Or do you plan on running remote coolers for those systems?
I was planning on the trans cooler in front of the radiator with a possible auxiliary cooler. I hadn't thought about a PS cooler. Is that really needed in a non-race vehicle?
 

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I was planning on the trans cooler in front of the radiator with a possible auxiliary cooler. I hadn't thought about a PS cooler. Is that really needed in a non-race vehicle?
You're not gonna race it? ...smh. lol. I have no educated response to your question, however, I'm going to run a PS cooler for the added capacity, for when I put a hydraulic assist ram on mine.
 

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Based on my googleing it seems like a PS cooler is a very good idea with 35+ tires. There's just the damn lack of room in a Willy's engine bay. :laughing:
 

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Is there an optimum distance or rule of thumb distance between the grill and radiator? My googleing hasn't returned much on this topic.


I’ve got between 1-3” depending on where mine will get burned in. I was fiddling with it last night and the trans cooler I have is about 1” so fitting it will be pretty straightforward.
 

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Is there a rule of thumb for steering box placement? Like never have your pitman arm drag link connection more than "X" from the the steering arm drag link connection. I've been searching and I can't find anything that states a dimension that you should not exceed. There has to be some dimension not to exceed, like 6" or 12" or do they have to be aligned?

chris
 

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let me word this another way....what's the maximum dimension that the end of the pitman arm can be forward or behind the steering arm(depending on steering box placement on the frame) if the perfect set up is they are perfectly in-line with each other?
 

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Boxed Frame

Those of you that have boxed your frame, how did you paint the inside of the frame and the boxing plates and how did you weld the plates on? Did you fully weld the top and bottom of the plates or just a set of short one inch welds?

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I painted what I could but didn't worry to much about it since I live in the dry SW. I welded top and bottom the whole way in small sections (1-2") and moved side to side to keep things cool.

I wonder if you could paint it just by fogging it from each end? Or you could just grease/oil the inside to preserve it. I've hear of people doing this in the rust belt prior to the winter but not sure on the practicality.
 

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Resident of the dry South West too. Not super worried about water sticking around too long. My Dad just moved here from Florida and he’s constantly reminding me to put drain holes in everything. It’s kinda funny.

I spray bombed my frame rails and will be stitch welding the boxing plates between the Springs. I fully welded the frame horns.
 

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It's messy but I used a piece of tig filler rod wrapped around a towel rag dipped in rustoleum primer. If the towel is big enough it fits pretty good.
I weld everything solid, a little at a time and back and forth. It seems like a lot of stuff you see pictures of stuff is only tacked, they never seem to say if they go back and weld it solid.
 

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I've used this before to paint the inside of the factory boxed portion. It worked fairly well. However, I sold the frame a couple months after painting it so not sure how it held up longterm but seemed to stick fairly well and covered evenly.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html
I have never seen that, looks like an option if you can't get into an area. I have used UPOL Raptor on my TJ, YJ and other vehicles both on the frame and on the underside on them as well. I also used it inside on the YJ. Works well, goes on easy and cleans up easy. I plan on using it on my M38 frame too. I am just worried that it might burn off when I weld the plates on.
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