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I think it also depends on how high your MC is relative to your calipers/wheel cylinders. (Don't know if it's true, but I've heard that some factory systems don't have anything). That is, a 2psi residual (what they recommend on discs), well if your master is up on the firewall, you'll already have about 1-ish psi down at the calipers if not more without any residual valve. Personally I have both (external 2psi on the fronts and integrated 'drum' style ones inside the MC for the rears) and I have issues - soft pedal, needs to be pumped up. So who knows. Then again, I've always had trouble bleeding brakes. I would say that if you choose to run external ones, put them as close to the MC as possible and try to verify if your MC has them integral or not.

Sometimes you can get lucky and can actually unscrew or pull out the inner 'cone' on the MC outlets to remove/exchange the ball/spring in there as needed to suit your application. But other times, it's all pressed together and not really something you can mess with.

That is one thing that's really neat about the aftermarket MC's from Wilwood and others is that they have the valves integrated into the MC and you can take them apart and change them to best suit your application.
 

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a friend of mine has a 48 that he converted to disk brake front using the stock master cyclinder. He can not get it to build pressure, and when he did get it to pressurize he lost everything when he cracked the bleeder the first time. He installed adjustable porportioning valve, and residual valves, no luck.

Now he is thinking that a Wilwood remote master cylinder will solve the problem.


Anyone else run into this issue?

I'm not sure on all the specifics, but I think he used mostly cj7 parts up front.

I did the conversion on mine using mostly GM parts with the exception of the rotors, not one issue what so ever. granted I have swing pedals opposed to his under floor pedals
 

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a friend of mine has a 48 that he converted to disk brake front using the stock master cyclinder. He can not get it to build pressure, and when he did get it to pressurize he lost everything when he cracked the bleeder the first time. He installed adjustable porportioning valve, and residual valves, no luck.

Now he is thinking that a Wilwood remote master cylinder will solve the problem.


Anyone else run into this issue?

I'm not sure on all the specifics, but I think he used mostly cj7 parts up front.

I did the conversion on mine using mostly GM parts with the exception of the rotors, not one issue what so ever. granted I have swing pedals opposed to his under floor pedals
Aside from the possible mis-match of master cylinder size to caliper size.

My best advise is to build one of these....



It's a reverse pressure bleeder. You pump it up and slip the end of the hose over the bleeder valve. Make sure to remove some fluid from the master first, but then you basically force fluid into the caliper and back up through the lines to the master cylinder. It worked SLICK for me. I was able to re-bleed my entire system in like 15 minutes by myself from nothing.

The brakes where better than they ever had been before with other bleeding.....lots of two person bleeding for hours!

Mine is all disc. I think getting enough pressure to force back through a 10psi drum brake residual might be a little more difficult. Maybe a tiny clamp on the hose at the bleeder fitting would work.

The thing cost less than $20 to build.
 

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TBI wiring harness and computer

What's the best place to send a wiring harness and ecm to, to get trimmed and flashed.

I want them to get rid of all the unused wiring so that i can run with bare minimum wiring.
 

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Does anyone have a pin out or a colored wiring diagram for a 71 Commando steering column? Looks to be the same as and FSJ.

I got a little antsy when I gutted my wiring and didn't take the time to label the wires.
 

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Aside from the possible mis-match of master cylinder size to caliper size.

My best advise is to build one of these....



It's a reverse pressure bleeder. You pump it up and slip the end of the hose over the bleeder valve. Make sure to remove some fluid from the master first, but then you basically force fluid into the caliper and back up through the lines to the master cylinder. It worked SLICK for me. I was able to re-bleed my entire system in like 15 minutes by myself from nothing.

The brakes where better than they ever had been before with other bleeding.....lots of two person bleeding for hours!

Mine is all disc. I think getting enough pressure to force back through a 10psi drum brake residual might be a little more difficult. Maybe a tiny clamp on the hose at the bleeder fitting would work.

The thing cost less than $20 to build.
When bleeding the brakes this way, do you still start at the furthest from the master cylinder?
 

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When bleeding the brakes this way, do you still start at the furthest from the master cylinder?
I did. I don't know if it makes THAT much difference but that is pretty much how I have always done it.

One thing to note. I think Jalbrecht42 confirmed the other day that you can't use a system like this to push past a 10psi residual valve. I have disc/disc and 2psi valves. He had disc/drum and a 10psi on the rear circuit.
 

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I have the wilwood master with Cadillac rears discs and dodge front discs. I do have a wilwood pressure reducer valve for the rear, do you think that would be a problem?
 

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I have the wilwood master with Cadillac rears discs and dodge front discs. I do have a wilwood pressure reducer valve for the rear, do you think that would be a problem?
With discs you should have a 2psi valve. Should work. Only one way to find out!
 

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Discussion Starter #120
Thanks man. The paper instructions just say a non hardening sealant. Left out the loctite 209 part.

This app sucks. Doesn't let me post pics and wouldn't put my reply in the above quote.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
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